need some advice : rod bearings.. headgasket

[vsixcamry]

well as most of you know, i have a rod knock on my supra.

Do you think i try putting in stock size rod bearing or machine the crank and get oversized? I've had a number of people tell me to just stick new stock ones in and see how things roll out.

Also, what kind of headgasket should i put in.. i dont plan on pushing too much power.. im only set at 10psi right now. Thats the only modding i've gotten too so far.

gimme your .02

[vsixcamry]

also, what headgaskets is it necessary to machine the block... i'd like to avoid doing that.. money is tight.

[Jeeves]

Here's your problem, you HAVE to clean the block and head either way. There's not a gasket that prevents that. Now, for the OEM (Composite material) gasket, you can get away with a shitty job of cleaning, but it doesn't hold boost/resist detonation for crap. If you leave it at 10psi, you will be re-doing the head gasket in sub-4/6 months. So, IMO, do it right, or don't do it at all. It's not worth the headaches or the cost of having to do things twice.

You will need to:
- Machine the block (30 RA Smoothness) (<100)
- Machine the head (30 RA Smoothness) (<100)
- Metal Head Gasket (HKS, Greddy (Always backordered), Cometic, etc.) (~$130)
- Arp Studs ($100)
- Bearings (Personally I told my shop, Go OEM if Clevite doesn't have the proper sizes, otherwise, use Clevite) ~$~
- etc.

Remember:
Fast, Cheap, Reliable. You can only pick two.

[vsixcamry]

alright thanks, what about the rod bearings? go oversized and get the crank machined?



Also, when the head and block are machined they are ppolished of imperfections.. Is it possible to do by yourself or do i have to send it off to some metal company?????

[Jeeves]

You can do it yourself but it requires a special tool. I just sent it to a machine shop that had the proper tools.

Rod bearings I left up to the shop, they're beyond my realm of what I'll claim to be expertise.

[toyomoho]

You’ll need to look at the rod journals, see how badly damaged they are. A shop can make an inspection and tell you if the crank can be repaired. They will also need to look at the rods.

[vsixcamry]

now i gotta figure out how to get the 7m up to the shop....

[vsixcamry]

how do these look?

also, any details you want to provide for me to tell the shop when they machine the head/block would be very much appreciated ive never had to do it before...

head gasket - http://intensepower.com/hks7mgte12be.html
ARP Studs - http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/a...tuds/203-4202/

[toyomoho]

Suggest calling the head gasket vendor or manufacture. Talk to the rep about what head and block surface finish and prep work is required. Then run down a machine shop that can provide this for you. Talk to the machinist about your spun bearing situation. They should be able to explain you options.

[Jeeves]

ToyoMoho - There's not a reason, they'll all tell you that for a Metal heaf gasket it needs to be smoothed to < 100 RA. For a Composite (OEM) head gasket, there isn't even a rating, but they'll still tell you it needs to be 'smooth'. Personally, I've used and liked HorsePowerfreaks.com:

$40 Cheaper - http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...e/Head_Gaskets

$6 More Expensive - http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...ine/Head_Studs

[bgrieger]

Typically, a good shop knows how smooth it has to be if you tell them you're installing a multilayer steel head gasket. I recommend race machine shops as they almost exclusively use them install them on many different cars, though they tend to cost a bit more. On the upside, many modern cars use the metal from factory now and most decent machine shops know what to do. If they hesitate, run!

[vsixcamry]

thanks guys, youve been a big help.

how much you think the bearing and head gasket repair is gonna cost me?