I am having some issues with my Supra and it recently started to pour out white steam, which is a head gasket indicator but I replaced the head gasket about year and a half ago.
Well, I thought I should do it again but after having the head resurfaced and pressure tested, I installed the new toyota dealer head gasket and replaced all the head bolts with original toyota along with the fuel injection seals.
Started it up alittle while ago and poof........white steam again.
I checked the block deck for flatness and it was good. Sanded the surface using sand paper and a flat piece of metal.
I am assuming that the block MUST have a crack in it or am I wrong??
I sduppose it depends on what grit, and how you did it. If you used a super fine grit like 800 or 1K with some oil it will be ok. The oil will cut the grit even further and you will end up with a rather nice smooth surface. If you used something aggresive like 120 then that will score up the head pretty bad.
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Don't you SAS me boy.
Please wheel responsibly.
I torqued the head to 72 ft lbs. I checked all the hoses, theromstat and sensors but nothing. The sand paper that I used was 400 grit so I think its mild enough but what to do instead of sand paper to clean the deck of the block??
For cleaning of the block surface, the blade type scraper with beveled edges is a best choice.The head must be milled to 30 Ra microinch. (this will leave flat surface with faint circular marks. Unfortunately, many shops just put the head on the belt sander (especially for one-time customer). Such machining leaves mattle dull finish. The most common reason for shops not to mill the head is the old inaccurate machines such as late 70s Storm-vulcan.
For cleaning of the block surface, the blade type scraper with beveled edges is a best choice.The head must be milled to 30 Ra microinch. (this will leave flat surface with faint circular marks. Unfortunately, many shops just put the head on the belt sander (especially for one-time customer). Such machining leaves mattle dull finish. The most common reason for shops not to mill the head is the old inaccurate machines such as late 70s Storm-vulcan.
What is the best waty other than removing the engine to see if the block is cracked??
Either the engine comes out or the head comes off. When looking for this kind of problem those are the only choices. Taking the engine out at once makes it easier in case you find there is a problem...no need to reinstall the head just to pull it again...
With the head off you can have it inspected by your machinist for problems and to straighten and deck as required. Then you clean the deck of the block. If you are using a Toyota composite gasket, sealing is rarely a problem unless there is visable damage to the block. Scrape with a plastic putty knife and gasket removal compound, making sure nothing gets in the cylinder bores. Wipe repeatedly with a cloth and acetone or other non water based cleaner until it starts to wipe clean (aka doesn't pick up any more dirt...white rags are a lifesaver for this).
You could use a UV sensitive dye and a black light from NAPA to look for minor cracks and imperfections on the block surface, but really a fingernail test and visual inspection up close will let you know if there's a problem in the head gasket mating surfaces. Marks from the fire rings that your nail catches on are bad, those you only feel going under are usually alright, though not always. It is a less than scientific test, but I've used it many times over the years with complete success. You can also inspect the gasket prior to removing it for deformation in the fire rings to see if it is just a blown gasket too. BTW, this testing applies only if you're installing a composite gasket after...Don't bother trying a metal head gasket if you're not getting the block and head machined to a low Ra count as Dr J mentioned above.
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