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Old 12-26-2006, 01:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation 7m removal problems...

Hey guys. I finally got my 7M all disconnected and the motor mounts undone. My friend and I have my cherrypicker attached and lifting the engine a small amount. Now We were pulling and pulling on the engine (or whats left on it) trying to get the input shaft out. We even used a 2x4 to use as leverage. Now my dad came out to help and we pulled and pulled. The whole engine actually came out, but then slammed back in. We think that it's the yoke pulling the whole thing back together.

I'm sure someone knows what i'm talking about. How do I disconnect the yoke? I have the front of the car jacked up right now so I can go under there and disconnect it...I just need to know how
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Old 12-26-2006, 04:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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you don't have the driveshaft disconnected? you have to do that. they're 14mm. just disconnect them near the carrier bearing. (there's four of them). drain the tranny first, then pull the front driveshaft out. it will slide right out. don't damage the yoke!

also, check the powersteering lines, as they're commonly overlooked, as well as the fuel lines, and the ground at the back of the head that goes to the firewall on the exhaust side.

-shaeff
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Old 12-26-2006, 04:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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myself, I'd reattach that tranny, unbolt the trans mounts and pull it all at once...far easier, and this is something you won't have to deal with. The driveshaft is only on a slip yoke, so it won't fight you in the slightest.

I've never bothered to pull one without the trans before. I'd hate to try buttoning everything up under the car, but that may just be me!

Bob
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Old 12-26-2006, 05:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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if your 7m is turbo with the 5 spd tranny (r154), you have to unbolt the clutch first.

But then again, way easier to removed the engine with the transmission still on the engine.
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Old 12-26-2006, 06:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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^ that's more or less what i was suggesting, hence why i said that he should unbolt the driveshaft, and check the other stuff i mentioned. i've pulled 7m's 6-7 times, and i've ALWAYS done it with the engine/tranny still attached to one another. it's MUCH easier that way.

here's a useful tip for ya:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423

-shaeff
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1994 Toyota 4x4, 31x10.50, 22re. <- to undergo high compression 7MGTE swap whenever i finish building it.

1986.5 Toyota Supra- 300+rwhp. (capable of over 400, but i haven't tuned it yet)
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Old 12-26-2006, 06:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just take everyone's advice and pull it with the transmission, it's a nightmare to do 'em separate.
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Old 12-27-2006, 01:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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alrighty... now here's the thing. When I was undoing the bolts to the tranny (there should be like, 6 or 7, right?) 2 on top werent even in there, 2 on bottom were almost hand tight, and the only halfway tight ones were the ones you have to get from the bottom. On top of that, they were almost all different sizes.

I guess I need to go to my local Toyota and buy some new ones?
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Old 12-27-2006, 06:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Wouldn't be a bad idea. In my most recent rebuild, I made a list and ordered about 8 different brand new bolt sets just to have it right the first time.
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Old 12-28-2006, 01:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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dang alright I will definately do that.

Where are the tranny mounts? I'm thinking of dropping the driveshaft today, then undoing the tranny mounts, and tilting the engine backwards to slowly drop the tranny....then pull out the engine (if that made sense). But my main thought is if I do that, I have no idea if the tranny will even come off...
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Old 12-28-2006, 01:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Wait I was just thinking about what I said, if I do that, it could damage my input shaft, so it is better just to use the old bolts to connect the tranny/block again and then drop the driveshaft and mounts. Wish me luck (as I havent done this before. WHOO!)
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Old 12-28-2006, 03:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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yes, bolt it on as best you can, and when you look at the slip yoke, you will see the rear mount...unbolt and pull the whole works out the engine bay.
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Old 12-29-2006, 09:57 PM   #12 (permalink)
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bah well my dad helped me and I got the engine out w/out the tranny. I'm thinking i'm going to drop the tranny when I go to put it back in, however, to help save time and energy.

I have almost the whole block stripped down with only a few things left on. The main thing holding me back is I can figure out how to get the pulley attached to the crank off. Once that's off, it'll help a lot....

I also have some minor rust on the input shaft. Does anyone know what could have caused this?
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Old 12-30-2006, 11:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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it's common. use an air gun to get the crank pulley off. it's on there at around 198ft lbs.

-shaeff
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My heater core replacement writeup with pics: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t209136.html

1994 Toyota 4x4, 31x10.50, 22re. <- to undergo high compression 7MGTE swap whenever i finish building it.

1986.5 Toyota Supra- 300+rwhp. (capable of over 400, but i haven't tuned it yet)
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