So theres a couple mk3s for sale around me. Both have 1jz-gtte swaps. One is a manual and one is an automatic. I absolutely love driving manual cars, I have a 94 tsi, my mom has a new solstice gxp, they're both manual and way fun to drive. I never really liked driving automatics because to me they don't feel like they respond very fast when they shift, i drove my buddy's integra, a grandam gt and a turbo eclipse all automatics and i shift noticeably faster than all of them when I drive a manual. So what do you think supra guys, should i go for the auto or the manual?
The stock R154 can handle more Torque than a Stock Turbo A340e. But then again it is a 1JZ :P
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1985 Toyota Celica GT-S Convertible 22R-EC/W58 with a 3.9:1 '85 Supra LSD 182k miles
1988 Toyota Supra 7M-GTE/R154 Custom 3" Intake and Exhaust
Also, keep in mind that if you ever plan on going to local car meets or showing your car to any people, be prepared for those people that think they're professional drivers to make remarks on your car being an automatic, regardless of how fast or nice your car is. With Supras, the pecking order is always about turbo/na and manual/auto. Just go on Youtube or Streetfire and see how many people like to put down automatic Supras. I have both an auto and a manual, they're equally fun and fast, but guess which one I have to keep defending.
I just bought a 94 Cresta Tourer V. As you know it comes with a 1JZ-GTE. And it's an auto I have never been happier when i bought a car. Either way it's going to be awsome. Which is cheaper?
$8K? I hope that is one clean car. I paid $1K for my car and about $2500 for a Soarer front clip. I hope you LOVE the 1JZ. You could have bought the auto and spent the $4K on building up the 7MGTE.
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Don't you SAS me boy.
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well the 7m has 180k miles on it and the 1j has about 45k. the 1j is already built up to 460 hp or so. but the one with the 1j has no rust, great paint, a super straight body, huge drilled rotors, new rims and tires, and the 7m has a crappy body covered in rust bubbles, a boost leak, needs a tierod, i just think the 1j is a better deal
drilled rotors are useless unless they're made that way. if they're made, then drilled, you're just buying weak rotors.
slotted is the way to go.
meh, i'm a 7m lover. it's such a capable motor that negligent owners give a bad reputation. but, i thank them for that. (it just means i buy any 7m super cheap!)
drilled rotors are useless unless they're made that way. if they're made, then drilled, you're just buying weak rotors.
slotted is the way to go.
Slotted and drilled are both out dated racing tricks. Newer brake pads do not suffer from out gassing like they used to. They are a just for show item. Just get regular rotors, that way you will not chew through brake pads, and will not have to get new rotors with every brake job.
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Don't you SAS me boy.
Please wheel responsibly.
Actually, slotted and/or drilled rotors do still have advantages for street and light track use.
The slots increase pad temperature quite a bit faster, and will allow one to get away with using a higher heat range pad in what are normally lower temp environments (ie a mild race pad for the street or autox).
Drilled rotors allow the use of larger rotors for greater braking torque, and in cases where you have more than enough mass to absorb the heat, you want to keep the weight down by using a drilled rotor. Larger rotors that can easily deal with the heat don't need the extra mass, so you save the weight and still get great braking. Modern sports and supercars are for the most part finally designed with proper sized brakes from the get go, and so you will notice that many of them use the drilled rotors for that purpose (Porsche and Ferrari come to mind).
That said, stock brakes need all the metal they can get to absorb heat and not overload on stock pads. Hence drilling is bad...less mass, less thermal capability. Slots will also push stock pads over the thermal limit faster and actually worsen fade problems. Better pads such as porterfield and KVR are made for higher temp ranges, and as any owner who has seen a track day can attest they are somewhat more fade resistant (a couple of turns better...no miracles here), but on the cold end, the first stop of the day is a little dicey until they have a bit of heat in em. Slots get them in the working range much faster, making first stop or highway slowdown safer for pads that are marginal for street use.
Drilled rotors allow the use of larger rotors for greater braking torque, and in cases where you have more than enough mass to absorb the heat, you want to keep the weight down by using a drilled rotor.
Those brakes do reduce rotational inertia, but they are also on finely tuned sports cars not a hefty MK III. It should also probably be mentioned that competition brakes are also made of lighter alloys or ceramics to further reduce weight. You could probably save more weight by picking up a set of light rims, however, there are many other areas of the car, and the driver for that matter, that need attention before the rotational inertia of the wheel assy is an issue.
__________________
Don't you SAS me boy.
Please wheel responsibly.
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