Quote:
Originally Posted by ebolabar
That's true I really don't have a solid understanding but I'm getting there. Here's what I think I know. The mechanic guy pulled each wire from the distributor one by one, looking to see which one did not affect the engine when removed. The third wire was the one. It was sparking, but the valve wasn't i guess responding.
I get what you said about your car developing a misfire during boost. But that means that the misfire would develop in the the midst of driving. Mine never starts misfiring while im driving. it only misfires if I startup with a hot engine.
Small note. If i turn it off while hot, and turn it back on within a few minutes, it wont mess up. If i let it sit for about 10 minutes or more, its starts misfiring.
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Ok, just to clarify some things first.
Valves are mechanically controlled objects. The camshaft spins, presses down on the shim/bucket, which presses on the valve stem, etc, which opens and closes the valve.
[img]http://xd.**********s.com/uploads/7f0732dda5.gif[/img]
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine4.htm
So, with that said, they can't "Not respond". Now, what your mechanic was testing, was to see if that cylinder was getting spark, fuel, or ignition (overall condition). If one of those failed to occur, that cylinder would in effect do nothing.
So, Really you've got the issue eliminated to one of the following, sorted by probability:
- Spark
-- Not getting spark.
---- Check Plug Wires
---- Check Spark Plug
---- Check Distributor
- Ignition
-- Air/Fuel Mixture not igniting..
---- Spark gap too small/large
----
No Compression
---- Too much fuel or too much air (being that all the other cyl's are working, this is highly unlikely)
- Fuel
-- Not getting fuel
---- Check Fuel Injector
I suspect it's somewhere in the spark side.