How do I fix Diagnostic Code 24?

[RUSS MYERS]

Poor drivability started after all spark plug wires got crossed, then at start up immediately backfired, of course. Installed wires correctly, car started, but..........

The car has poor drivability in that under load to accelerate it bucks but seems to smooth out above 3K RPM but still does not has good acceleration. Idle is fine but has intermittent missing. Have replaced spark plugs (Autolite), cap, rotor, wires, air filter. Cleaned MAP and connections. Replaced MAP with used one and back again. The tiny glass sensor inside the MAP near the flapper gate looks clean.

Diagnostic Code 24 relates to the Air Intake temp. What components or sensors do I need to check or replace to fix the code. Also have Air Flow Code 32 and Ignition Code 14.

Searched Forum with no success. Any help is appreciated.

[Jeeves]

Code 14:

14 - Ignition Signal

Diagnosis:
No "IGF" signal to ECU 6-8 times in succession.

Trouble Area:
Igniter and ignition coil circuit
Igniter and ignition coil
ECU

Code 32:

32 - Air Flow Meter Signal

Diagnosis: Air Flow Meter Signal, Open circuit in E2 or short circuit between VC and VS.

Trouble Area:
Air flow meter circuit
Air flow meter
ECU

Code 24:

24 - Intake air Temp Sensor Signal

Diagnosis: Open or short circuit in intake air temp sensor signal (THA).

Trouble Area:
Intake air temp sensor circuit
Intake air temp sensor
ECU

32 and 24 are both related to your air flow meter. Since you mentioned a distributor/rotor I'm assuming you're an N/A car and not turbo'd.

Soo..... 32 & 24 you need to look at your air flow meter, make sure it's plugged in and what not. I don't know if those fail often on the N/A's so I can't be of much help. On the turbo models I know that they often fail when people try and clean them.

As for 14, it sounds like you need to check the wires to your distributor and igniter. The ECU isn't getting confirmation from the igniter that it has fired.

[hevster1]

The 14 is a bogus code. Used to happen all the time no matter what as soon as there was a misfire. Both the MAf codes could have been caused by the wires or by swapping it out. First off clear the codes and get the autolite crap out of the car and put ND or NGK Platinum or Iridium in. If the cap rotor and wire set are aftermarket replace them with factory as well. Check your base timing with te1 and e1 jumped. If it is off and you cannot correct by turning the distributor OR even after you correct the problem persists check your cam timing. The backfire may have caused it to jump a tooth on one or both cams. If all seems ok and it still persists pinch the fuel return line. If the rpm rises more than 1 or 200 rpm the injectors are clogged and need cleaning. Chances are you will find that once you replace the parts with the correct items from a dealership it will run far better.

[Jeeves]

Originally Posted by hevster1

get the autolite crap out of the car and put ND or NGK Platinum or Iridium in.

AutoLite's are fine. In fact, all I'll run is AutoLite 3923's (VERY similiar to the originally spec'd NGK Coppers for the GTE). Iridiums are shit and were never spec'd for the 7M.

[shaeff]

^ I've also been running Autolite 3923 coppers for several years.

[RUSS MYERS]

I'll check it all out and get back to you all. Knowledge is power. HP that is.

[RUSS MYERS]

Guess what guys. I liked hevster1's suggestion because I've always experienced the simple fixes are the answer. Replaced the auto-craps with NGK 2441's. The car runs like a top from startup to high RPM. The autolites were brand new too! The counter guy at Car Quest auto parts said he and others have not had good experience with autolites or even champions. Where ever the A's and C's are mfg, the QA is lacking and some bad batches sneak through.

I don't see where I put specs in this thread, so you guys did a great job diagnosing. Anyway, its a 87 7M-GE n/a stock 4-spd with 207,000 miles. no knocking or smoke.

Thanks again.

[Jeeves]

Dunno what to tell ya, I made near 500hp/tq on AL's. Glad ya got it fixed though!

[willtotheumm]

i'm making no power on my NGK's.

Oh yeah... engine is torn apart. Duh! haha.


Glad ot hear your problem is fixed dude

[shaeff]

Probably loose wires or something that were fixed when putting new plugs in...