1) Metal HG + 30RA Head Machining + 30RA Block Machining + ARP Head Studs = Magic Combination. If all is assmembled well, and machined properly it should be THE end of the Head Gasket issues. Some might say a head gasket retorque is important, but really the previous should answer your question.
2) Above 12psi (on the CT26) the following are needed: Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump, Bigger injectors (size depends on goals, 550cc's & 680cc's are comon), Drilling out the J-Tube (google it, it's on the driver side of the engine) and then above 450 or so a Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator is highly suggested. The Lexus upgrade will allow you to use 550's and the Lexus MAF. They MUST be matched, 680's and the lexus would be detrimental to the engine. the lines and rail are almost never upgraded unless you're looking to make 800+ and then you'll want to repull fuel lines from/to the tank.
3) Pistons are often claimed to be good until aobut 450hp. Conn. rods are often listed to be good up to about 700. You are making a large error in judgement however. PSI is an improper measurement for turbo pressure. PSI is a -resistance- to flow. What IS important is PSI @ ### CFM. On the stock CT26, no one has the stock map, so there's no one to answer that quesiton. However, the stock turbo (ct26] is uselsess above 14psi or so, it is far out of it's range and will only blow hot air and will make very little more power.
4) I don't know what this 'stage' thing is. HKS had a stage chart for the 7m/Mk3 wayyyy back in the early/mid 1990's, but that's long since been discontinued. These days, HKS cams (if you can find a pair) will be -VERY- expensive. Several companies (Crower, etc.) offer regrinds and can match their specs, but yeah. Oversize valves are nice as they're a limitation but the stock head can only take so much expansion. Springs/Retainers will vary, they're not often 'upgraded' except in extreme head-work cases (and as you may have guessed) crazy amounts of head work isn't done that often.
5) Again, PSI is irrelevant. Each of those turbos will flow different amounts of air at 15-20psi. Brand names (also) mean very little. They all make turbo's that do the exact same thing, spin and compress air. What you should focus on instead is what turbo is relevant to your goals (most will list a 'max hp') and what flange does it use. T4? CT26-Flange? Etc. The stock toyota flange is not a common style, most drop it in favor of a more common T3 or T4.
6) Suprasport.com makes (or at least, used to) a 3" upgraded elbow, but many people flat out replace that section. I've got a V-band exhaust and a piece of pipe.
7) Ethanol Intercoolers? It almost sounds like you're talking about an air to water intercooler. Air to water's are only good as long as you can keep the water cold, so, a few passes at the drag strip. For the street a standard front mount intercooler is a far more worthwhile upgrade. If you're talking about methanol or water injection (where it mists into the intake manifold to cool the charge temps down), that's a WHOLE different ballgame.
8) Find a filter for our cars, and be done (
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com). CAI's are more damaging (especially if you're in a place that gets rain) and huge piping kits are often a waste.
9) Look at horsepower freaks. It's been a long time since I went with any kind of retail product.
10) The stock (5speed) turbo tranny has seen 800hp. Now, will it take missed shifts and slammed gears and rough treatment at that power level? No. Until you get into 700+ there's almost nothing in the drivetrain to worry about (short of a clutch). Realistically, there is not an upgraded LSD that I know of (there maybe, but it's a part I've never needed/looked for).
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engine performance modifications
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