So i got my blow off valve and everything mounted up, but i think i made a problem where i Teed it in at. I teed it in at the stock recirculation valve coming out of the 3000 pipe, but left the stock recirculation valve on. Its bogging out bad. I took the bov off and put the stock IC pipe on, and replaced the vac line and it worked fine. So im pretty sure its a problem where i teed it in at. I also remember hearing something about bogging out if you take off the stock recirculation valve. Do you guys have any recommendations on where to T it in at? Its a aluminum pipe replacing the stock plastic ic pipe, and i teed it in before it hits the stock recirc valve coming out of the 3000 pipe.
I can honestly say I've got NO clue what you're saying you did. It's very unclear.
You've got to remove the stock blow off valve. Then cap both the nipple at the 3000 pipe AND the hole in the Accordian hose.
Then take the line that was originally feeding that blow off valve, and attach it to the vacuum line on your new blow off valve.
You've not told us what type of BOV you've got, how it's attaching to the system (I'm assuming it's on this pipe that replaced the plastic one?), how it's venting (to the accordian pipe or to atmosphere) or many of the crucial details that we need in order to tell you what you're doing wrong.
It sounds exactly like a vacuum leak to me.
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1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, 486hp, 494tq.
[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/rsw_sig_stupidTN.jpg[/img]
Who came up with this 500px wide BS?
Alright lets see if i can make this a little more clear. I replaced the STOCK PLASTIC intercooler piping with a metal piece the same size. Had the flange and bov attack to that. So the stock plastic intercooler pipe is replaced with the metal part and the bov is attached to that. I Teed in the vacume line, to the line that runs to the stock recirculation valve. (Teed it in at the vacume line coming OUT of the 3000 pipe) And thats about really it. I left the stock recirc valve on, and it was bogging out. So your saying i could take off the stock recirc valve, plug both of the ends with something, and run my vac line directly to the 3000 pipe part? I just thought i read somewhere that if you did that it would bog out.
Im looking at that picture of the stock recirc valve and whatnot you posted in a differant page. http://xd.**********s.com/uploads/19b11b5776.jpg
And to be a little more clear, I teed in my vacume line at the signal line running to the stock bov.
And yeah sometimes the boost-vac gauge i got was droping to like -21psi inbetween shifts and fluxiating between -18 and -19 at idle.
go with the arrangement you see in the second pic. Remove the stock valve, put caps on the bosses at either end at the 3000 pipe and the accordian hose, and run a single signal back to the stock location. Give it a whirl and see what happens. Don't get drastic and lose the stock hoses as if the BOV is bad, you'll need to put it all back to stock until you get another valve.
You aren't reading -21 PSI, that's 21 inches of mercury. You should get near to 20 inches at idle (18-19 is reasonable). It should fall back that far as when you take your foot off the gas in a shift. Here, the throttle plate closes, the engine sucks in all the air left in the manifold and the side effect is that the vacuum generated opens the BOV.
I just read somewhere that the HKS has a weird atmospheric dump. Since thats what im installing the HKS SSQV, even if i remove the stock recirc valve and plug those is it still going to bog between gears? Im also drivin an automatic if that has anything to do with it.
Ahhh, you drive an automagic...whole different animal. BTW, all BOV's that do not have a recirculation tube are atmospheric dump. It's not weird, just not legal in many places...hence we have them installed from the factory as recirculating.
It shouldn't bog on gear changes, as the BOV will only release when you take your foot off the gas, and that is on decel, not in between shifts. For a manual, the only reason for it to stumble would be a leak in the new pipes, or the BOV itself.
Try it with just the HKS installed. Check your pipes for solid connections and that all clamps are secured.
it might. I take it by bog out you mean the tendency to almost stall when you release the gas pedal? If so, welcome to the downside of an atmospheric venting BOV.
yeah thats what im talkin about, if this doesnt work ill just get one that i can hook up to the atmospheric hoses like ive seen. theyll take like turboxs bov's and have them vent back in and stuff. iuno ill see tomorrow
HKS used to have an adapter to do it with the SSQ models as well, so you might be able to keep the same valve. The problem is that the BOV is venting metered air, so the TCCS is expecting it to make it to the engine, and so it provides fuel for that much air. When it is vented, you get a sudden rich condition, and the engine can stumble or stall. You could try adjusting the dashpot to slow the close of the throttle plate, which brings the vacuum on more gradually and should allow the engine to get a little more air. You could also not snap the throttle closed and instead just roll off it to do the same thing. Final alternative is to go to a MAFT-pro or similar and eliminate the airflow meter in favour of MAP metering, but that's an expensive way to get a BOV to work...
This sounds like a lot of work just for a blow off valve, if this doesnt work and keeps running rich ill probly just sell/trade it for a turboxs i can route back in.
I understand a lot people has issues with a BOV setup as an atmospheric vent, but in my 10+ years of experience with Turbo (Toyota Supra, Celica, MR2, and Eclipise) I have yet or never had any bogging issue. I believe if your car bogs slightly it might be normal, but as you discribe it shouldn't. My BOV setup on my current Celica All-Trac Turbo is also using a HKS SSQV (Orginal Design w/screw) and I have yet to have any boggin issues.
How well does your car idle, and is there any cracks or leaks?
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