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Old 09-28-2008, 03:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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USA 1989 Supra. New Head?

I have a chance at an '89 Supra. This is what the Ad says.

"Targa top, 6 cyl., non turbo, blown head gasket, does start and run, might need new head, body in good shape, must go. $650."

Should i go for it? How hard is it to replace the Head Gasket by myself? Or if i have to replace the head, how hard would that be? Also, cost estimates?
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Old 09-28-2008, 09:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It could be really cheap. In theory, if the gasket is the only problem, you could get it done properly for well under a grand yourself and have a car for next to nothing. In reality, it is probably going to cost a fair bit more, and if the head is cracked or not servicable, or you discover lots of little things that need replacement on the way in there, you could be sitting on 3500lbs of paperweight needing a few grand in replacement parts and a full engine replacement on your hands.

You sound like you have never done this before, and so I will suggest that while it is not rocket science, you might ask local shops for an estimate.

As for the procedures and what to do, search will turn up the answers to your questions more completely. Only you can say if it is worth it based on condition, what others go for in your area, and what you are willing to pay.
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Old 09-29-2008, 07:16 AM   #3 (permalink)
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So now I'm looking through my local Salvage yards, and if i can find one with lower mileage, I'm probably going to do an entire engine swap. I have a buddy that has all the required tools, and has done quite a few restorations. So can i drop the Turbo version of the engine right in? Or is there anything that needs to be done?
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Old 09-29-2008, 07:50 AM   #4 (permalink)
one turbo is one too few
 
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physically yes, logically no. You'll need to the electronics and sensors from the turbo car, coil packs etc and need to wire it all in to the chassis. Again, not rocket science, but takes a fair bit of experience and knowledge of the cars. There are several sources of information on the swap on the net, and some of it is available through searching posts here.
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Old 09-29-2008, 01:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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And GTE's are just time bombs waiting to go. Stock head gaskets WILL fail. It is only a matter of time. Some will go at 60,000 miles, some will go at 300,000.

However, I'm paranoid. That's me. Others would say just swap. If you're looking for a cheap easy way to get a running mk3, that -will- work with what bgrieger said.
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Old 09-29-2008, 04:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Okay. So I've found an engine. The Salvage yard couldn't tell me whether it was a Turbo or not, although when i told them it was a two door, they said something about "1.6" i don't know what this means, as I'm pretty sure the engine is a 3.0 Litre. It's $500 for an engine with 96,000 miles on it. I'm going to check it out and find out if it's a turbo or not. If it's a turbo, I'll also take out the required parts for the swap, even if it requires me paying more.

Following what Jeeves says, I think i will also buy a brand new head gasket for the engine, so as to not run into the same problem. But i suppose i still need to inspect the car itself. The head might not even need replacing. I'm just planning ahead, or trying to anyways. I guess any metal head gasket will do?

I really do want the Mk3 to work. It truly is my dream car, I've always wanted one, and this is my chance. =] Thanks for the info so far guys.

That, and the car I have now is... Well, not the best, to put it lightly.

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Old 09-29-2008, 05:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The problem isn't in the gasket itself. The problem is in the gasket, it's in the bolts, it's in the way the head and block are machined in preparation to hold the gasket. It is not a job that you can do by yourself. Properly done, a head gasket job requires a trip to the machine shop, ARP Head Bolts/Studs and so on.
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Old 09-29-2008, 05:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeves View Post
The problem isn't in the gasket itself. The problem is in the gasket, it's in the bolts, it's in the way the head and block are machined in preparation to hold the gasket. It is not a job that you can do by yourself. Properly done, a head gasket job requires a trip to the machine shop, ARP Head Bolts/Studs and so on.
And what specifically would i be asking the shop to do?
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Old 09-29-2008, 05:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You do realize that when most cars end up in a salvage yard it was either due to a massive accident or the engine was trashed.

Either way, don't plan on just dropping a used engine in the car... ever. Even if you find one that's been "rebuilt" you should still pull it apart enough to measure clearances and look for any signs of damage which may have been missed.

I too am a proud member of the paranoid club.
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Old 09-29-2008, 05:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRE View Post
You do realize that when most cars end up in a salvage yard it was either due to a massive accident or the engine was trashed.

Either way, don't plan on just dropping a used engine in the car... ever. Even if you find one that's been "rebuilt" you should still pull it apart enough to measure clearances and look for any signs of damage which may have been missed.

I too am a proud member of the paranoid club.
Oh yes. I'm not just gonna go, "Yeah, hand it to me." When i spend money, I make SURE i'm spending it right. I try not to buy garbage. Which is why I'm researching my options so well on this car. =] I do appreciate all the advice guys.
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Old 09-29-2008, 05:39 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You should be asking a shop to:

- Machine the block to 30 RA smoothness
- Machine the head to 30 RA smoothness (most will take this oppurtunity to check the head for all proper clearances/bucket & shim gap/do a 3-angle valve job. With the head already off this stuff is usually a sub $200 chore (depending on shop labor/time & parts available). If this needs to be done later, this can be a nightmare and there's no telling it's current state.)
- Replace the Head Gasket
- Replace the Stock head bolts with ARP Head Studs ($100) usually these should be torqued to 85-or so-ftlbs

These pieces/parts are typically the 'magical combination' to solving head gasket woes in the 7M.
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Old 09-29-2008, 06:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Always check with the manufacturer of the head bolts or studs you are using to determine the proper torque specs. If you ever look at a cross section of a 7M head you'll see why.... they are not beefy in the least. Also note that Jeeves said "studs" and not "bolts", the two are different and will have different torque specifications. With head bolts I would never go over 72ft lbs.

There's nothing wrong with OEM head bolts either... it's the OEM torque specification which was WAY off. If you use OEM head bolts 72ft lbs has been proven safe and not enough to strech them.
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Old 10-07-2008, 09:53 AM   #13 (permalink)
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1.6 engine? are you sure they didn't confuse it with an rx-7? I can't say how many times my friend and I went for parts for his car and the guy behind the counter would look at his car and even see the name and brand on it and say, yeah, we have a lot of those. Turns out that most salvage yards we went to didn't have any supras, just junky old rx-7's.
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