Low idle, slight miss

[Fubar231]

Mmmmk. So my car idles around 450-500 (if the RPM is accurate the face was swapped so im not entirely sure how accurate the needle is). It has a random miss sometimes but stores no codes. The miss acts up a lot more when you barely press the gas when my rpm gauge reads around 750-800. The miss doesn't happen all the time when your driving, barely ever. It only happens when im crusing at low speeds in 4th gear and the rpms are real low,(i have a automatic), and it doesnt miss alot, its very rare, but its there. Also my timing will not stay steady. We hit it with the light a few times (cold and warm) and it bounces. Im going to hit the TPS and ISC with a voltmeter soon. Thats where im going to start atleast, any input on this? Also heard clean/check the throttle body of carbon and make sure that its closing all the way.

One other thing, how do i access the drivers side fog light. Mines bent and doesn't work, and i wanna know if i have to take the bumper off. And does anyone know where i can get something to plug my antenna hole, im getting a in car reciever, and its getting bonded over and painted when i get the car painted.

[Jeeves]

When you're setting the timing, you have to jumper T1 and E1 otherwise the ECU is going to adjust timing like it would during normal running settings.

It's very hard to say. Can you post a video?

Pull the engine undercover off, and access it that way.

[Fubar231]

Yes the jumper was connected E1 T1 when we ran adjusted the timing. Were going to check the resistance, and i dont know how to get a video, no video camera here. Also, anybody heard about a bog shift from 1st to 2nd? The C.E. light comes on then goes away too.
No check engine codes, havnt checked tranny for codes yet.

[Jeeves]

Hmm. These days, timing lights sense use induction when the spark is occuring by wrapping around them with a small sensor, but with shielding around the wire this can result in many missed spaks causing timing to look like it jumps around, when in reality it's rock solid.

Personally (and these are hard to find these days) I prefer to use the old timing lights that actually intercept spark, they often had a spring, or a spring with a rubber shield around it that would sit down over the spark plug then the wire would go down on top of it. These made sensing spark 100% failproof.

It could be the cause, it might not be. Personally, I've also gone a little closer to the ECU. I've quit jumping at the Diag box. I've got a button in the cockpit that is my "Check Engine Light" button. I press it, and it jumps the wires at the ECU, so much easier.

That light coming on, sounds eerily like a fuel cut warning...

[Fubar231]

Does it sound like fuel cut? Cause its only at real high RPM's from first to second and thats when i floor it on launch my boost spikes at like 13 then steady at 11 or so.

[Jeeves]

Yeah, you're spiking above fuel cut. The check engine light will blink when you smack fuel cut. Turn down the boost a bit.

[Fubar231]

Originally Posted by Jeeves

Yeah, you're spiking above fuel cut. The check engine light will blink when you smack fuel cut. Turn down the boost a bit.

Exactly what it was. Turned the MBC a half turn down and no more problem, im still running 11 lbs too but it only spikes to 11.5. I think the turbo just wont flow more than 11 consistantly so im trying to tune it to where it doesnt spike above 11.

[Jeeves]

Stock CT26?

[Fubar231]

Yep. Stock ct-26. Saving up for one of the new Boss Jr's. Probably going to get the triple creamic ball bearing 61trim. But thats later. I still got that slight miss, havnt adjusted my tps yet. Also, my rear left brake setup has been grinding latly. When im goin slow, on and off the brake pedal. I got a video of the noise but its hard to tell. Any ideas of where to start? I put new rotors and pads on about 5k miles ago...

[Jeeves]

Yeah, stock CT's are pretty well known for having flow issues like that at higher RPM's.