While I don't recommend running without one altogether, you don't want to cap it without a vented gas cap, and you might want to vent the lines out from the engine bay though...gasoline vapours plus sparks equal bad times! If you have state emissions tests, don't throw it out as you'll need it to pass visual.
Get a vented gas cap. Pull the canister out, plug the line by the firewall, and plug up the hole in your thermostat housing where it's got that nasty temp controlled vacuum valve.
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1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, 486hp, 494tq.
[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/rsw_sig_stupidTN.jpg[/img]
Who came up with this 500px wide BS?
Yeah thats what i was going to do. 1 question, the line i plug off the vac/temp thing ur talkin about has 2 little nipples on it w/ vac hoses and its like green right?
Thanks alot guys all the info i needed. Just gotta get around to doing it. Finally my cars running strong, good to go, back to preformance mods. Current - Weight Reduction lol. Im waitin for my Downpipe to get here then ill have a TMS DP/ Test Pipe / Blitz Nur Spec. Got a used blitz nur for 350$ w/ a tp and it looks brand new. No dents, hardly any scratches.
Uh, got a question. How far back should i plug it off on the firewall? I mean where is the best place ti plug the line that leads out the back of the canister.
The flexible line that comes off the canister meets a hard line that heads down and under the car. Put a cap on the hard line. Most auto supply stores will have a pack of rubber caps that will suit your needs. I would use a small clamp as well, just in case the gas cap for some reason allows some pressure to build.
You guys do know that the CC doesn't effect performance AT ALL and that technically it saves you gas.... right? If you don't like the looks get a smaller or differently shaped unit and put it in the fender.
Gasoline evaporates quite easily. In the past, these evaporative emissions were vented into the atmosphere. 20% of all HC emissions from the automobile are from the gas tank. In 1970 legislation was passed, prohibiting venting of gas tank fumes into the atmosphere. An evaporative control system was developed to eliminate this source of pollution. The function of the fuel evaporative control system is to trap and store evaporative emissions from the gas tank and carburetor. A charcoal canister is used to trap the fuel vapors. The fuel vapors adhere to the charcoal, until the engine is started, and engine vacuum can be used to draw the vapors into the engine, so that they can be burned along with the fuel/air mixture. This system requires the use of a sealed gas tank filler cap. This cap is so important to the operation of the system, that a test of the cap is now being integrated into many state emission inspection programs. Pre-1970 cars released fuel vapors into the atmosphere through the use of a vented gas cap. Today with the use of sealed caps, redesigned gas tanks are used. The tank has to have the space for the vapors to collect so that they can then be vented to the charcoal canister. A purge valve is used to control the vapor flow into the engine. The purge valve is operated by engine vacuum. One common problem with this system is that the purge valve goes bad and engine vacuum draws fuel directly into the intake system. This enriches the fuel mixture and will foul the spark plugs. Most charcoal canisters have a filter that should be replaced periodically. This system should be checked when fuel mileage drops.
I read a interesting report published by the EPA on the matter of fuel evaporation and related controls. It specified some freaky amount of potential loss. The gist was that gasoline evaporates so readily that in cases where it sees heavy agitation and warmer temperatures (ie your gas tank in the summer) up to (or maybe they said it was over... don't recall) 2 gallons of fuel can evaporate through an opening no larger than 1/8" in a week.... or something like that... On a DD that's friggin insane.
I'm sure those figures are a worst case scenario, there are a lot of other factor to consider including humidity, temperature and the surface area of the fuel. It's enough to make me love that ugly can though. I don't know if that article was biased either, but honestly, given current prices, it's worth the eyesore if it saves me 1/10 of a gallon.
With regard to the BVSV failing and causing an overly rich mixture and possibly the fouling of plugs... it's only a consideration with MUCH older vehicles where the ECU isn't trying to maintain Lambda. But, it gives you a good idea of just how much and how quickly your fuel can evaporate.
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