"New" Supra-stalls and idles extremely rough-sometimes...
It seems consistent with a vacuum leak, but I can't seem to find it under the hood-I did the ole starting fluid spray trick, but nothing. The car will bog down and almost die under acceleration (I thought earlier this may have been from a charging-low voltage situation, but have already corrected that). The idle jumped up on to 2,000 rpm while pulling out of my work place parking lot, when I hit the pedal, she bogged down almost completely stalled. I had to play around with the pedal for a while before the problem stopped so if it is a vaccum leak, it is not constant. Under medium to high load (full throttle), she'll climb in rpms, but right before the turbo hits in, she bucks wildly like a severe miss fire. Anyone have any ideas for this newbie?
May have some vaccum hoses hooked up wrong looped through. Could be causing problems. Was the car just started when did this? Coming into winter and all when you are running turbo don't get into it until car is warm. Will buck like no other Turbo cars are not to be pushed when cold let it warm up and try it. Post some pictures of hoses and what not.
May have some vaccum hoses hooked up wrong looped through. Could be causing problems. Was the car just started when did this? Coming into winter and all when you are running turbo don't get into it until car is warm. Will buck like no other Turbo cars are not to be pushed when cold let it warm up and try it. Post some pictures of hoses and what not.
I'll post some pics in a bit. The car was warm, in fact, it runs better when first started and cold then it does once it is warmed up. It is not overheating, so I'm not too sure where the leak could be, I'm about to go outside and start checking the intake bolt torques and the intake and cooler hoses to be sure they are nice and tight.
By any chance do you know where I can find a Turn signal control relay? A part number on it would be nice. Previous owner removed the old one-said it no longer worked, but now I'm stuck without even a part number.
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Light moves faster than sound. That is why someone may appear to be bright, until you hear them speak.
1987 Toyota Supra Turbo.
Thank you, I appreciate that! I got one pic and my camera battery died, waiting for it to charge back up, I'll have pics up within half an hour.
A new problem: Yesterday my horn worked, today when I hit the horn my headlights came up. I've not touched any wiring, could this be a relay problem? I seem to be having a handful of those electrical gremlins...
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Light moves faster than sound. That is why someone may appear to be bright, until you hear them speak.
1987 Toyota Supra Turbo.
I think I need to get a new battery for my camera-5 hours to recharge when I just had it fully charged three days ago-not good-not holding much of a charge, but here is the pics... Alrighty, how do I add pics from photobucket????
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Light moves faster than sound. That is why someone may appear to be bright, until you hear them speak.
1987 Toyota Supra Turbo.
I edited it for you. In photobucket, you want the forum tag line under the image (third of the options I think). Click it, hit ctrl+c and ctrl+v in your post window here. Add nothing else.
The vac lines appear right. Next, check for leaks in the intake hoses, and then the throttle position sensor. Any leak post meter may cause problems, and that includes the accordian hose going to the turbo. I had similar issues a long time back and it turned out to be an intake manifold gasket developed a leak.
Here's a more informed explanation of the problem.
It only occurs under 3000-3500 RPMs while under medium to high load (such as going up a hill or while flooring the gas either 3/4 or full throttle to accelerate). It also happens under the previous mentioned conditions but also when boost starts to come in, wether the gauge reads 0" or 4-8psi. The condition does not occur while accelerating rapidly, as in getting on the highway and allowing the engine to rev up to 6Krpms and then shifting into the next gear with the throttle fully opened. Problem being that once I get to the speed I want to be going-maintaining it is almost impossible. If I'm on the highway and want to go 70mph and then begin to go up hill as soon as I start giving it more gas to maintain that speed it acts like a rev limiter is coming on. It does this no matter the speed I'm trying to go, wether 35 or 70mph, it is load/RPM and Boost relative. The idle problem has gone, though she does stall occasionally while coming to a stop.
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Light moves faster than sound. That is why someone may appear to be bright, until you hear them speak.
1987 Toyota Supra Turbo.
Hmm, considering when I hit the horn my headlights come on, I'm not sure of anything! I've built up a Grand National, however, a blow off valve was not a part of that operation and I have no clue how this funky device works...is this like a weird wastegate, how does it function?
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Light moves faster than sound. That is why someone may appear to be bright, until you hear them speak.
1987 Toyota Supra Turbo.
Basically, they are vacuum operated dump valves with a spring pre-tensioner to keep it closed at low pressure differentials (like idle and steady state part throttle operation). It should be connected to the manifold directly to sense vacuum, and not be "tee'd" to other parts. Under boost, idle and no boost part throttle, the valve should stay closed. When vacuum spikes with positive pressure in the intake tract (gear changes under boost, or any other time you release the throttle while there is boost pressure), it should vent the excess air until the pressure levels off. If it opens any other time, or the pretension of the spring is set up wrong, it may be leaking when it should be closed. Given the cars will idle with massive leaks, this would only start to manifest if the throttle is touched.
Basically, they are vacuum operated dump valves with a spring pre-tensioner to keep it closed at low pressure differentials (like idle and steady state part throttle operation). It should be connected to the manifold directly to sense vacuum, and not be "tee'd" to other parts. Under boost, idle and no boost part throttle, the valve should stay closed. When vacuum spikes with positive pressure in the intake tract (gear changes under boost, or any other time you release the throttle while there is boost pressure), it should vent the excess air until the pressure levels off. If it opens any other time, or the pretension of the spring is set up wrong, it may be leaking when it should be closed. Given the cars will idle with massive leaks, this would only start to manifest if the throttle is touched.
Alright, I did see the bolt and jam nut on the thing to make adjustments, which way should I take the bolt to adjust it closed?
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Light moves faster than sound. That is why someone may appear to be bright, until you hear them speak.
1987 Toyota Supra Turbo.
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. I've not touched any wiring, could this be a relay problem? I seem to be having a handful of those electrical gremlins...
I think I need to get a new battery for my camera-5 hours to recharge when I just had it fully charged three days ago-not good-not holding much of a charge, but here is the pics...
Alrighty, how do I add pics from photobucket????
Linear Mode
