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Old 12-15-2008, 04:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Newer Problem...

Funny, exactly the same time one problem is fixed, another one happens. My head light switch no longer "clicks". The end of the stem fell to the floor as I test drove my car after repairing the cracked intercooler hose. Instead of feeling a pop, pop (parking lights) and pop (headlight), it just completely rotated as though it were a dimmer switch. Headlights came on and off all during my test drive as the thing wiggled to different positions. Has this happened to anyone else and if so, what did it require to fix?
Also, do these cars have a problem with always needing something fixed or is it just me?
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:25 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I believe the solution for your problem is to go buy that "stem" from Toyota and replace it. I believe that can be done, but I'm not certain.

As for the problems, you're talking about a car that's now 21 years old. It's kind of par for the course if it's been ignored its whole life.
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Old 12-15-2008, 02:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I believe the solution for your problem is to go buy that "stem" from Toyota and replace it. I believe that can be done, but I'm not certain.

As for the problems, you're talking about a car that's now 21 years old. It's kind of par for the course if it's been ignored its whole life.
For being 21 years old, the interior and body are in excellent shape. The switch worked fine the time before last that I used it. I thought it was funny that as soon as one problem was fixed, another one mysteriously popped up.
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Old 12-18-2008, 07:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
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More problems...Speedometer stopped working. I thought the cable was squeaky, so after it stopped all together I figured it needed a new cable, however, the cable isn't broken and it isn't squeaky anymore either. It appears the cable hooks up into another cylinderical looking contraption on the back of the guage, what is it and how do I replace it (as in, where do I find a new one and then install it)? I went ahead and replaced all of my indicator lights with super flux LEDs, so I was able to pull vehicle codes. 1: Knock sensor, 2: Vehicle Speed Sensor (for ABS?) and 3: Starter signal...??? She starts up just fine, not sure what that was all about. 42, 43 and 52. I was really expecting MAF and TPS, this really did confuse me.
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Old 12-18-2008, 11:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Congratulations. I hate to say it, but you bought someone's bucket of problems. Boost leaks, broken parts, electrical issues, etc.

I'm assuming you looked at both pieces of the cable? It's not just a one piece cable. When my last one quit squeaking, I found it broken off in the cable sleeve, 4" up from where it connects to the tranny. The speedometer is 100% mechanically driven, so it's a cable spinning in a tube. I've never actually seen a speedometer itself fail. I don't know the inner workings of the speedometer for this reason. Nestled back in it somewhere is the speed sensor, which since (I'm assuming) because the cable isn't spinning, isn't reading, thus throwing the code.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTi...ror_codes.aspx

As for the "Starter" code, you have to look beyond that. Look at the diagnosis:
Quote:
No "STA" signal to ECU until engine speed reaches 800RPM with vehicle not moving.
Then:
Quote:
Trouble Area
Ignition switch circuit.
Ignition switch
ECU
The Knock sensor code is well known, and either means one isn't plugged in, or you get to rewire them, which can be a pain and your car will run poorly while it's throwing this code.
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Last edited by Jeeves; 12-18-2008 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 12-18-2008, 04:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeves View Post
Congratulations. I hate to say it, but you bought someone's bucket of problems. Boost leaks, broken parts, electrical issues, etc.

I'm assuming you looked at both pieces of the cable? It's not just a one piece cable. When my last one quit squeaking, I found it broken off in the cable sleeve, 4" up from where it connects to the tranny. The speedometer is 100% mechanically driven, so it's a cable spinning in a tube. I've never actually seen a speedometer itself fail. I don't know the inner workings of the speedometer for this reason. Nestled back in it somewhere is the speed sensor, which since (I'm assuming) because the cable isn't spinning, isn't reading, thus throwing the code.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTi...ror_codes.aspx

As for the "Starter" code, you have to look beyond that. Look at the diagnosis:


Then:


The Knock sensor code is well known, and either means one isn't plugged in, or you get to rewire them, which can be a pain and your car will run poorly while it's throwing this code.
It is the speedometer gauge itself, the plastic reciever is broke, where the cable slides into it, therefore, the cable can spin freely, while the gauge sits idle. I'm thinking a dab of epoxy into the plastic and then reassemble, but then removing the dash will not be able to occur, very easily without pulling the cable out through the dash.
Yes, it does seem I bought a hoopty for sure. Brighter side, it can be fixed and made better.
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Old 12-18-2008, 05:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddouglas77 View Post
It is the speedometer gauge itself, the plastic reciever is broke, where the cable slides into it, therefore, the cable can spin freely, while the gauge sits idle. I'm thinking a dab of epoxy into the plastic and then reassemble, but then removing the dash will not be able to occur, very easily without pulling the cable out through the dash.
Yes, it does seem I bought a hoopty for sure. Brighter side, it can be fixed and made better.
I have never seen that part break before or even heard of it breaking. Much like my first 7M crankwalking (something you don't hear of 7M's doing), that's a new one.
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Old 12-18-2008, 06:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have never seen that part break before or even heard of it breaking. Much like my first 7M crankwalking (something you don't hear of 7M's doing), that's a new one.
A new one?! The irony, if it were new, it wouldn't have broke
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Old 12-19-2008, 02:51 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Good, my biggest fear is not worrying me now. The speed sensors are just fine as far as ABS goes, after looking at the attached photo, I realized the speed sensor for the ecu was a reed switch on the speedometer and since that is no longer working, that is why the code is coming up for that. As for the knock sensor, I'm still hoping it is because I used reg unleaded instead of premium (she was running rich with that leak before, no need for high $$$ gas when she is rich). Hopefully this will all be coming to a close soon enough.
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Old 12-19-2008, 07:44 AM   #10 (permalink)
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You can hope...as little as that is likely to help. The car was designed to run on 87 regular unleaded, with premium prefered...This is not a new problem, and almost every supra needs this operation done at one time or another. To give you an idea, the site below has only one page visited more often than the knock sensor ones in the repair issues, and that's the blown headgasket page.

The IMO best repair procedure is here (Never heard of anyone having to redo this one if they were patient and did it right the first time):

http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=69
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Old 12-19-2008, 07:48 AM   #11 (permalink)
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You can hope...as little as that is likely to help. The car was designed to run on 87 regular unleaded, with premium prefered...This is not a new problem, and almost every supra needs this operation done at one time or another. To give you an idea, the site below has only one page visited more often than the knock sensor ones in the repair issues, and that's the blown headgasket page.

The IMO best repair procedure is here (Never heard of anyone having to redo this one if they were patient and did it right the first time):

http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=69
I've already ordered 50 ohm, 20 gauge, shielded wire, just to do it. As far as the starter signal code, I, also, mentioned in the charging problem thread that the ignition switch was going to need to be replaced, so all in all, some amount of work, but not exactly or anything near an engine tear down.
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Old 12-19-2008, 07:55 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Very nice directions they had at that website! Though I'm not sure why he didn't just recommend completely removing the old wire and reterminating the new wire to fit the ecu.
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Old 12-19-2008, 09:30 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ddouglas77 View Post
Very nice directions they had at that website! Though I'm not sure why he didn't just recommend completely removing the old wire and reterminating the new wire to fit the ecu.
I assume because that would mean trying to land that thin-net cable amongst the other pins on the harness. It's a cramped area as is.
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Old 12-19-2008, 10:02 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I assume because that would mean trying to land that thin-net cable amongst the other pins on the harness. It's a cramped area as is.
Yes, but when you disconnect that ecu clip and use a precision screwdriver to pull the terminal itself out, you have all the room in world to solder on the work bench, then feed the wire back through and plug it into the ecu clip.
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Old 12-19-2008, 12:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I've done it many times. I'm not talking about room to work.
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