Tool for retorquing 7m-ge head

[RUSS MYERS]

My 87 n/a 7M-GE has 214K miles on it and I want to retorq the head.

Special Toyota tool SST 09923-00010 is required to remove the #3 cyl head cover (I believe its a 14mm allen wrench). I can't find this size anywhere, NAPA, Advance., etc. Where can I get one?

Also the 10mm allen wrench too for the head bolts.

[bgrieger]

Go to a hardware store and find a pair of nuts (in a pinch, take the 14mm socket and find whatever is closest) and a bolt to match. Put them on the bolt and jam them against one another. Use a ratchet on one end and the other is the instant allen wrench.

For the head, you want a long shank hex socket. Short ones tend to foul a bit on the cams while you are trying to tighten. I have a sears one myself and it works well enough.

[willtotheumm]

I have one from Sears too that my friend used when my Supra was his. I wish I could find it because now my friend is re-doing his BHG and needs it. Now I know exactly what size it is

[Tire Shredder]

you shouldn't have to take off that third valvecover to retorqure the head. All of the head bolts are under the two main valve covers.

however, if you want to remove it, A 9/16 mm bolt does the trick. jam two nuts on the threaded portion and put the head. like this:

[Jeeves]

I don't know what stores you all have, but Autozone has a three piece, 1/2" drive socket set, that has allen head sizes. Amongst them, is a 14mm. It's sub $10.

Looks like this: [img]http://xd.**********s.com/uploads/18ffdc99b3.jpg[/img]

[RUSS MYERS]

bgrieger, Can you do me a favor and send a picture of your Sears "10mm long shank hex socket" for the head bolts? I went to Sears yesterday and no luck, but then I was not too sure what I was looking for and what it looked like exactly. Jeeves provided a good pic of his 14mm allen head socket, but it seems to have a short shank.

Thanks Tire Shredder. I now have my homemade 14mm allen socket wrench. Beautiful job on the engine!

[bgrieger]

I'll see what I can do this week sometime. There's a 4 foot snow drift in front of the garage right now and I haven't had time to clear it so I can get in there...

[bgrieger]

Snow is still coming down, so I won't get to it for a while. Anyhow, this link is to a similar set to mine (mine has 5mm through 12mm, this stops at 10), just that I don't have the ball type, and they don't seem to sell the straight ones anymore. Nothing wrong with the ball ones in my experience, but I've never tried to see if misalignment leads to different torque readings (it might).

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&sName=Sockets

[Tire Shredder]

Originally Posted by bgrieger

Snow is still coming down, so I won't get to it for a while. Anyhow, this link is to a similar set to mine (mine has 5mm through 12mm, this stops at 10), just that I don't have the ball type, and they don't seem to sell the straight ones anymore. Nothing wrong with the ball ones in my experience, but I've never tried to see if misalignment leads to different torque readings (it might).

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942607000P?vName=Tools&cName=Mecha nics+Tools&sName=Sockets

Bob, misalignment will lead to incorrect torque reading. some of the torque will be directed towards the axial direction of the bolt which is bad news. If at all possible, get the standard square one. More surchace area in the bolt head is great too.

Here's my long shank that I used to disassemble my engine. I broke it in the process but got a refund.If you do take that center cover off, make sure to put a touch of FIPG or thread sealant on the threads since these are exposed to oil in the head. the O-rings on there should be doing the job, but could be old and cracked. might be a good idea to get some new ones. 72 ft/lbs on the headbolts is the sweet spot for stock bolts.