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Old 05-19-2009, 04:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1987 Supra Turbo 7mgte 5 speed

I just got this Supra turbo sport roof with 150k. the guy selling it said that the engine was rebuilt at first then he said it was just a head gasket. but whatever, the problems i'm having is i have a ping at low rpm's in the head, i just bought it so i threw some premum fuel and lucas upper cylinder lube in it with fuel treat ment so far that hasn't done anything to take it away. the second problem is that there is oil everywhere and i can't find where it's comming from, i mean everywhere both sides, the back front, it's dripping everywhere i just changed the oil and no leaks from what i see now but it's still everywhere? . oil level is good so i'm kinda confused? and when i hit the 8 psi the car wants to cut all power like the bov can't take it anymore is that normal more like no more turbo power? quick fix? better bov? it's weird cuz i'm normally at 4k rpm's and it's doing this to me??? i'm new to toyota currently selling my 2002 Audi A6 2.7t 6 speed. 14,000. any help. would be great. suggestions for modifications nothing too outragious yet. (K&N Filter, custom cat back, those are the mods on the car as of now)
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Old 05-19-2009, 09:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
one turbo is one too few
 
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I'd get it fixed before spending any money on mods. Clean everything thoroughly and find the leak. A small leak will still make a big mess.
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Old 05-19-2009, 11:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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3rd Generation

1. head noise? roller rocker? adjust the valves, bad springs, retainers, it happens at low rpm's stops right around 3k, doesn't really happen at idle either.

2. Oil everywhere? cleaned the engine will look to see. is there something that can spill oil without it leaking, ie if the oil cooler thing came off how much oil would be spilt?

3. i've got a clunk when i shift sounds like the drive shaft, U joint. gonna try to replace that.

how dependable is this vehicle, transmission, engine? i'm sorry i'm new to toyota i'm a audi, vw guy but i'm starting to like the Supra...
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Old 05-20-2009, 11:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
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1) There are no roller rockers in this head assembly:
[img]http://**********s.com/supra/images/Old/DSC05231.JPG[/img]
[img]http://**********s.com/supra/images/Old/DSC05235.JPG[/img]

2) If the oil cooler came of you'd spill dangerous amounts of oil. Where is the source of the oil leak, still a mystery?

3) Are you using the stock boost gauge or an aftermarket one? The factory one is notoriously unreliable and there is a fuel cut at 12PSI that will jerk you around very hard. In order to hit 8psi there have to be more mods than that something to control or modify the boost/wastegate line and you also mentioned a BOV.
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Old 05-20-2009, 02:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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well it's the stock boost gage and it jumps above 8psi. i hear a bov when i shift under boost. and i get a massive power loss jerk when i hit above the 8. i just bought the car so i don't know what was put on it. i checked the just drove 150 miles today and no oil leak so i'm good there. the guy said he just put 1200$ into the motor but he wasn't clear on what it was, he said rebuilt, then he said head gasket, and then he said he didn't really know. i'll look through his reciepts when he finds them...

if i hear the knock in the head, should i get new springs, titanium retainers and valves? or is there an adjustment that can be made on these. i'll have to check and see what kinda work was done on the head or motor. the only mod's i know of are the K&N and the exhaust it sits on 97 supra wheels thats what i know. there is what looks like a bov (looks stock) in front of the turbo thats got toyota stamped on it.

I'll post pictures up soon.

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Old 05-20-2009, 03:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If it jumps above 8psi, my guess is that you're hitting fuel cut which is @ 12psi.

Knock in the head could be any number of things, you'd have to narrow it down further than that. As was mentioned above, the injectors are noisey on these vehicles but not so much that you might mistake if for a noisy lifter. Shims can be "adjusted" but the method of adjustment is replacement with the proper size shim. If they're loose enough to make noise you've had something catestrophic happen.

Pictures would help clarify as to what you've got, but that car should make nore more than around 4psi on the stock boost gauge. Stock boost was 6.8psi, but the factory intercooler listed a 3psi pressure drop across it. If you've got nothing in there to tune the car either, you could be running lean. There's no way to know the condition of the car that you just bought.
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Who came up with this 500px wide BS?

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Old 05-20-2009, 05:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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wow that kinda sucks, atleast i got somewhat of a good deal on it so i'm not too mad, a few hundred dollars and hopefully i'll be good, just the shims? you wouldn't recomend going with the bc's at 1mm over and doing a complete head job. it's only like 400 something like that. i defently need to find out if it's got a chip or piggyback or something like that in it. but like you said there isn't anything to adjust so it shouldn't be a piggyback... it's deffenlty a head scratcher, if i'm hitting 12psi when i should only hit 4 valves knocking twards the back of the head, i ran 92 in it with injector cleaner and lucas and it was still making the same noise switched to regular same thing... the thing is that it's not a really loud valve noise it's but it's louder than what the injectors should make and i don't think they would knock? right. looks like i'm gonna have to pull the head off and take a look some time soon. can you just put pictures or can you do sound or video on here?
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Old 05-21-2009, 12:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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You'd have to host a video on youtube or something.

Head noise could be any number of things. I was just pointing out how the head design in the 7M is different from say, a classic pushrod engine.


That is a bucket and shim. The shims come in different sizes depending on what is necessary to give the proper clearances.





Well, it can't be a chip. There aren't chips for boost control. In order for it to hit 12psi, there'd either need to be an actual boost controller, something bleeding off air between the Turbo housing and the Wastegate actuator (a very low tech solution some people have found for this was to put a simple plastic T in the line), Shim the wastegate actuator (An old SOGI mod found was done by putting washers between the turbo and the wastegate so that it took longer for the arm to actuate the wastegate port), or some people have done the worst possible and just plugged the line. This just disabled the ability to discharge the overboost sitation entirely leading to fuelcut.

You could pull the valve covers and look, but obviously that won't show you the valves themselves.
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Old 05-21-2009, 05:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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so i just put a video on you tube Toyota Supra turbo 1987 001.AVI... the guy said it was the headers but i'm not sure. and you can see alot of tape and wires hooked up and what not to where they shouldn't be i think it doesn't look good...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPpC7j0HBww

ok video is up...

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Old 05-21-2009, 08:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yep he is hitting the fuel cut off. It pops off rather abruptly. I had an brand new 1988 version of that car. I really hated it because: It was way too heavy @ 3500 lbs, had only 230turbo HP that had a short pull at about 4500 RPM. The suspension was complex but very soft with lots of body roll. The gearbox 90w fluid was cooked at 30k as was the turbo and the clutch plate and flywheel (melted). I never raced the car from a stop but did cruise at times at 110MPH on long trips.

The car was a pretender. Eventually I got a free flow exhaust with no cat and a valve to raise the turbo pressure to just before the fuel cut off at about 11PSI. Those mods improved speed but it still was a pig off the line. The car was just not made to be fast. Now the version after it with the twin turbo was the real deal.

I would advise just using the car as a cruiser. To mod it to make it fast would cost mega bucks especially with 150K miles. Good luck
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Old 05-22-2009, 01:38 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I can't tell what the wires and tape are. If you could just get some photos of that area or see where they are coming from and going to it'd be great.

The recirculation valve, (BOV) is factory. When you called it a BOV I expected an aftermarket piece. You'll want to look for something down near the turbo outlet and wastegate line to see if it's been altered in any way. Something is definitely funny with that wiring though, I wonder if he tried one of those "ebay" performance chips and messed something up.

As for any noise, it's hard to say. The engine itself is noisey and it's hard to distinguish what's normal operation noise from what you're hearing as improper.
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Old 05-22-2009, 12:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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i'm uploading 2 video's of the vehical from inside, hitting off the fuel cut off and a 0-60 without being able to hit above 4k rpm's i can hit around 5k in first but can't push it past 4 without hitting the cut off unless i drop the pedal and hit it again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Itjtd...eature=channel
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2d9t...eature=channel

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Old 05-25-2009, 09:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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So would a bov and a boost meeter-controler solve the fuel cut off issue? and if so what's a good one to go with. bang for the buck and reliable?
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Old 05-26-2009, 01:52 AM   #14 (permalink)
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A BOV releases the pressure that is between the turbo and the throttle body when it closes shut (when you let off the pedal) to prevent compressor surge. These are useful above a certain boost level where the stock unit commonly fails or can't keep up (then you get compressor surge (not fuel cut)).

Throwing mods at a broken problem is usually just a good way to compound an issue. A boost meter is a must, a boost controller right now you should wait on until the other issues get sorted out and fixed. I sort of heard a noise, but I'm not sure what I heard. While cameras have developed nicely for voice and most tonal ranges, their ability to pick up the fine differences for car diagnosis leaves something to be desired.

You need to figure out why you're overboosting first. In stock-ish form you may need to take the accordion hose to see it, but once you've got it off. There is a hose running from a fitting on the turbo, to the wastegate actuator.

The yellow arrow is the line you need to check:
[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/CT26_charger_sml.jpg[/img]

Really, that's how the whole setup should look for stock. There should be no washers spacing the wastegate off of the turbo. The wastegate hose looks intact. Everything looks great. The pink ring on the wastegate is meaningless.

Anything that splices into it will modify the boost setting. While you're there some photos would help. Also some photos of that weird wiring we saw in that video would help, we're very curious as to what that all is.
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[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/rsw_sig_stupidTN.jpg[/img]
Who came up with this 500px wide BS?

Last edited by Jeeves; 05-26-2009 at 01:55 AM.
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Old 05-27-2009, 12:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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so i talked to a guy that has a 7m in his truck, he's a mechanic at this place in town and said he would work on it for me for 20$ an hour, from what he heard it sounded like shims to him, the guy who told me it was the headers which i thought was redick said thats what he calls the valves? no sh*t, wow. but i will take some pictures of the stuff and post them, he's going to re-wire that crap it's bad, so u joint and head noise, check, good??? soon, next problem ^^^^^ right above... the power steering resivor that i see there in the picture, yeah well mine is from another car and doesn't bolt up to anything??? lol, looks like i need one of those as well.

Where do i find good shims, cheap?
Bov?
Head Gasket set?
u joint?
don't say auto part store, lol. unless it's true.
Ok i need a lesson on how to put pictures up, lol.
BEFORE
[IMG]C:\Users\Michael\Pictures\2009-05-27\015.JPG[/IMG]

AFTER
[IMG]C:\Users\Michael\Pictures\2009-05-27\018.JPG[/IMG]

Problem solved, thank you...!
i lost some power but it's faster. now isn't that ironic.
next step is the head and u joint.

Last edited by BigMikeyD; 05-27-2009 at 01:30 PM.
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