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#1 Old 05-30-2009, 10:33 AM
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Radio Not Turning On

Hi,

My 1988 toyota supra radio is not turning on. It was working a few days ago when I last turned it on but now it's not turning on at all. Does anyone know if this anything to do with the car alarm or any connection. The car is in excellent condition. I checked the 2 radio fuses (under hood and under driver's side leg area) but the fuses look ok. Any help someone can give would be appreciated.

Frank
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#2 Old 05-31-2009, 08:49 AM
one turbo is one too few
 
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I am assuming you have a factory stereo?

If the fuses are good, pull out the radio and ensure the leads are a) connected, b) have power c) if it is an older aftermarket unit, that the little fuses that they often used to have installed in line are also alright.

If they are alright and do have power, you could try dropping another cheap stereo in there to see, or wire upthe stereo in another car if you have a spare harness and connector laying around. The wiring diagram is:
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#3 Old 05-31-2009, 11:32 AM
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Thank you. I will try this. Hopefully I won't find it difficult to remove my factory radio. By the way, I am only aware of two radio fuses (one under hood and one under driver's foot are). Are there any other radio fuses I may be missing? P.S. Is it difficult to remove a factory radio?
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#4 Old 05-31-2009, 02:46 PM
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From memory, in order to remove the radio you have to remove the dash trim first:
- There are several screws holding it in place
+ One on the left side of the shifter
+ One under the ignition switch
+ Two on either side behind the ash tray, and one behind it (you'll need to remove it first, do so by holding down the metal flap/spring as you pull it out)
+ and of course unscrew the shifter knob to slide the shifter boot over the stick.
(I think that's all of them, I may have missed one or so...)

You then pull the trim off of the dash itself. Once it's unsnapped, there will be a few power connectors for the cigarette lighter. The radio has four screws, two on either side.

1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, ~600hp, ~600tq.

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#5 Old 06-01-2009, 02:14 PM
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Unfortunantly, you may have tripped the security system in the radio. I know the TSRM warns of this if you disconnect certian things wrong or the car enters into protection mode. You may want to double check if their is a way of resetting the system. I believe its some sort of combination of turning the ignision on and off and hittting and holding the gas pedal or something silly like that.

*hitting the gas pedal with only the ignition on, not the engine running of course. My friend had to do this with his N/A, we were trying to do and jump it in an emergency and it did not like that too much.

Last edited by SupraTuned; 06-01-2009 at 02:18 PM.
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#6 Old 06-08-2009, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fpoli75490 View Post
Thank you. I will try this. Hopefully I won't find it difficult to remove my factory radio. By the way, I am only aware of two radio fuses (one under hood and one under driver's foot are). Are there any other radio fuses I may be missing? P.S. Is it difficult to remove a factory radio?

i had the same issue paid 5 bucks to repair it all he did was take it out disconnect and connect it back.... but im not sure if you have the same problem
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#7 Old 07-12-2009, 11:14 PM
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I think there may be a fuse in the back of the stereo unit?
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#8 Old 07-18-2009, 03:28 PM
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I disconnected and reconnected the radio.

I tried turning the ignition on and off while hitting and holding the gas pedal to try and reset the radio/security system.

I did not find any fuse in the back of the radio to check.

The radio is still not working.

The only thing I noticed was that when I gently reconnected a large male pronged wire set back into the back of the radio, my antenna began going up a few inches and then came back down. I gently reconnected the large male pronged wire set in and out, in and out, several times. Each time the antenna went up a few inches and then came back down. During this time I tried pressing the on button while the antenna was moving to see if I could get the radio to turn on. In the end, there was no power at all except for the few seconds the antenna went up and down. If anyone can offer any additional help, that would be great.
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#9 Old 07-19-2009, 10:33 AM
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While it was out, did you take a multimeter to the power leads to ensure you are getting power all the time? Flickers of life suggest a broken connector, broken solder joint or a broken wire somewhere along the way.
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#10 Old 07-19-2009, 09:25 PM
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Perhaps you may consider simply installing an aftermarket radio? I have been installing stereo systems since I was 15 and they are very easy to do. You can never go wrong when you pick the right one for you.
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#11 Old 07-19-2009, 09:30 PM
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I did not take a multimeter to the power leads. I don't have a multimeter and am not familiar with how to use one.

Would you suggest I take just the radio or the whole car to an auto electronics place to test the radio with a multimeter? (the radio is currently out and disconnected. I didn't put the dashboard back on yet so I can still do some testing if you can recommend anything). I prefer not to take the whole car. I prefer just to take the radio.

Thanks.

Frank
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#12 Old 07-20-2009, 09:04 AM
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Most electronic stores aren't going to care about the radio itself either. When it comes down to it radios are cheap items it the grand scale. They have no desire and they aren't going to spend the man hours (and you aren't going to spend the money to troubleshoot electrical gremlins) in just the radio. They are there to either sell you an item or to sell you an item and service to install it. Not to service a dealers problem or to find a problem in a 20 year old part.

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#13 Old 07-20-2009, 01:00 PM
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I have to agree. A stereo shop won't give you the time of day, and will only advise you to replace. Eventually, they all do die however, and your's may simply have met it's end. Of course, if the wiring is bad, a quick stereo shop replacement won't fix the real problem anyhow, and as Jeeves said, they tend to plug and play and shove your car out the door as fast as possible...they won't spend more than a minute chasing it down if there is a power problem except at a big dollar per hour rate.

An analog multimeter is 5-15 dollars for one that will do the job. The cheapest one on the shelf at Harbour Freight/walmart or other store will do. You set it to volts DC at the nearest to, but over 12 volts setting it has (many are 20 or 50 volts) and put a positive lead on the power (pins C & D above), and the negative lead gets touched to pin G or a solid metal grounded part in the car. Try wiggling the harness and wires to see if the power drops because of a broken connection. Change pins to the other power lead and try again. At least then you can see if the wiring is the problem or not.
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