hey everyone i have a 86.5 mk3 supra and it currently needs a new motor i have been looking at the 7mgte and the 1jz-gte but since i have the basic 7m if i swapped out the motor to the 7mgte could i still use the 7m tranny (M/T) thats with the car now with the 7mgte motor?? As for the 1jz-gte i found a site that includes the motor tranny ecu harness etc. but i want to be a cheap as possible before i just hit the 1jz. Thanks for the help guys.
The 7M-GTE is by far the lesser of the two for price, and the W58 transmission will bolt up. I can't remember if the N/A flywheel is a straight bolt on affair or of you start to get into mixing and matching GTE/GE parts off the top of my head. The W58 will not allow you to go too terribly far in power if that is the goal, but for a simple swap it should be fine.
Either way it is not just as simple as pulling an engine and dropping in another. There is a fair bit of wiring and such that needs to be done, and quite a few of the turbo car parts outside of the engine itself.
It would likely be easiest if you have a donor car to get the parts from (like one that is rusted out or was heavily rear ended, but ran well).
The cheapest way I've seen almost every time if you are not getting parts for free is to sell the NA and purchase a good condition turbo car. The N/A engine to put into yours would be dirt cheap as nobody wants them, and is a simple swap.
thanks for that info. i might have a turbo donor car that has bad paint but is decient otherwise except for the fact that it needs a new harness and it has been sitting a while so what all needs to be done to get it running is still under question. But for only $500 its not bad for the entire car but its still going to cost me $1000 just to drop the motor into the car.
r154 was also used in MKIII Supras, you could do a 1j r154 swap and get all the parts you need from either a Japanese shop or on celicasupra.com or supramania.com Depends on your budget. Which is?
If you go 7mgte make sure you change the head-gasket and torque the bolts to about 20 psi over spec to avoid a BHG situation.
well my supra came with a w58 5 spd m/t tranny. my buget should be some where from 2000-3500 dollars. ive been looking at the 7mgte just due to it being an easy swap compared to the 1jz if i am correct. but if i just want the 7mgte what parts will i NEED besides the ecu and harness. can i just bypass the turbo cluster gauge? so i dont have to remove the one thats in there? or what? i guess im just asking what parts will i truly need to complete the 7mgte swap.
by turbo cluster gauge do you mean the vacuum fed stock boost gauge? If so, yes.
Assuming your car presently has the stock 7mge its quite simple. You just need what would be the turbo components to do the swap, the intercooler and piping which you can readily get from people parting stock 7mgte cars. Your going to need to upgrade the fuel pump and perhaps the fuel delivery system, always depends on what you plan on running as power but for sure your going to need to swap the fuel pump. If the engine comes with all necessary components like injectors and electronics your not missing much. You would have to check if the stock igniter is suitable for the turbo motor, that I'm not sure and your going to need to fab up an exhaust (3") And I'd personally add an oil cooler as well.
Dont forget as I am mentioning it again, before you put the engine in, buy a full gasket set and a METAL head gasket. Install that and torque the head bolts to around 15-20 PSI OVER toyota spec to avoid the common BHG.
I'm sure I have overlooked something but I'm sure the others will chime in
If the transmission is healthy and you dont excessively beat it I've seen w58s hold generally about 300 hp and I saw one dude running a w58 with a 400 hp 6m, obviously he got over excited and eventually blew the shit out of it but you get my point.
by turbo cluster gauge do you mean the vacuum fed stock boost gauge? If so, yes.
Assuming your car presently has the stock 7mge its quite simple. You just need what would be the turbo components to do the swap, the intercooler and piping which you can readily get from people parting stock 7mgte cars. Your going to need to upgrade the fuel pump and perhaps the fuel delivery system, always depends on what you plan on running as power but for sure your going to need to swap the fuel pump. If the engine comes with all necessary components like injectors and electronics your not missing much. You would have to check if the stock igniter is suitable for the turbo motor, that I'm not sure and your going to need to fab up an exhaust (3") And I'd personally add an oil cooler as well.
Dont forget as I am mentioning it again, before you put the engine in, buy a full gasket set and a METAL head gasket. Install that and torque the head bolts to around 15-20 PSI OVER toyota spec to avoid the common BHG.
I'm sure I have overlooked something but I'm sure the others will chime in
If the transmission is healthy and you dont excessively beat it I've seen w58s hold generally about 300 hp and I saw one dude running a w58 with a 400 hp 6m, obviously he got over excited and eventually blew the shit out of it but you get my point.
That's 15-20 ft-lbs over spec, not PSI.
You also can't simply slap a metal head gasket in between an unprepped block and cylinder head. Both the cylinder head and block surface need to be decked to a 40RA minimum surface finish and that involves pulling the motor & a complete teardown, then a visit to the machine shop.
So for a simple 'make it run' swap I would highly recommend using a new OEM headgasket and ARP studs torqued to ~70 ftlbs in 6 or 7 incremental passes, going through the cylinder head torque sequence 6 or 7 times overall and increasing the torque by 10 ft-lbs a pass or thereabouts. The OEM headgasket will hold just fine if you don't get daring with the boost level or your ignition timing. Keep the CPS timing at 10* BTDC, the boost below 13psi and 91 octane minimum in the tank. Obviously, don't overheat either. So long as you follow that SOP you will be okay with an OEM HG for a long time, what kills OEM HG's is detonation and overheating.
Beyond the components that MK2-1JZ listed, you will also need a tach or a complete gauge cluster from a 7M-GTE car in order to make your tach function properly, since the 7M-GE uses a distributor and the GTE uses coil packs for ignition.
Your existing W58 trans will work 100%, just use your W58 flywheel & clutch on the back of your 7M-GTE and it's a 100% bolt in. Keeping it alive under higher HP is a matter of avoiding clutch dumps, harsh launches from a stop and sticky/wide rear tires.
All told, unless your 86.5 is exceptionally clean I would recommend just putting a JDM 7M-GE in there and selling it, as Bgrieger suggested.
A very nice MK3 can he had these days with a well maintained & modified 7M-GTE or already swapped with a 1JZ-GTE for the 5-6k range quite easily, and you would be getting a lot more for your dollar to go that route than to build a car yourself.
The easiest way for the tach is what Wreckless mentioned but MSD also makes a tach adapter to fix that problem. Swap the cluster x2.
For the headgasket, how much thicker is it than OEM? I would imagine you need to have it decked to fit the new thickness of the MHG. Good to know they wont deck the block unless its completely dis-assembled.
But I mean if your serious about this car you might as well own up and do it properly the first time, deck it, rebuild it, MHG, new bearings, rings, a good hone. Worth it if you intend to keep this car. If not, as mentioned make it run settle for lower power and use it.
well i want to make it run so i can get to college and back. i have been looking at an 89 7mgte donor car for $500 but have no way to get it to where im at. so should i just buy one from an import company? like i say i just want it to run because i leave for afghanistan in october. but i do want to have something with some power lol. Maybe when i get back i'll get a 94-98 2jz.
if you decided on 7mgte you need intercooler and piping, wiring bits, dash or tach adapter, if your car is AT now you need the right transmission cross member, new engine mounts if needed, exhaust parts stuff like that
well it is a mt tranny. ias mentioned before i know of a donor car but its been sitting a while and im trying to save money for college so 500 bucks for a car that ran the last time it was used sounds good... if i got it what would the steps i would need to take to make sure it wouldn't lock up if i bought it and swaped everything from that car?
well for now i just went for the non turbo and hopefully everything works alright but just for saftey i do need to tighten the stock head studs 15-20 ft. lbs. over spec right? what else do i need to do after that so i can have the comfort of knowing that the hg wont blow out on me again
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