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It is a little tricky, but it is only precise, not tough. From the TSRM (can't find my Haynes now to test...it's probably in the garage somewhere)
Insert a .7mm (.0276) between the throttle stop and the lever and you will put the ohm meter across E2 and IDL (bottom 2 pins on the GTE, top 2 on the GE, and E2 is the first pin). With the sensor turned all the way counter clockwise, start to turn the sensor clockwise until the ohm meter drops and bolt it down. A needle type will deflect, a digital will either drop to infinite or waver toward it. You may need to do it a couple of times to get a feel for it. Confirm then once you think you have it that at .5mm (.0197) you have continuity, and at .9 (.0354) you don't.
If you get it set and still have the code, or if you can't get any readings, you need to test the sensor itself. That one is tougher and takes more feelers and time with the Ohm meter, and needs the sensor adjusted correctly to do all of these.
Closed (no feelers) - E2 and VTA (E2 is top pin on a GE, bottom on a GTE and VTA is third from E2) is supposed to be between 0.2-1.2 KOhm.
.5mm feeler - E2 and IDL (pin 1 and 2, refer above for where the E2 is) should be under 2.3KOhm.
.9mm feeler - E2 and IDL should be infinite (no continuity)
full open throttle - E2 and VTA should be between 3.5-10.3 KOhm
At any position - E2 and VC (pin 4 counting from E2) should be between 4.25 and 8.25 Kohm
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