maby you guys can help me out on this, well i just finish doing my head gasket, no i did not get a BHG but the factory headgasket was still fine, i just wanted to do just to be safe and what not, well i got a OEM HG, ARP bolts tq to 80lbs, stock 7mgte, the turbo was also rebuilt, all new gaskets, and i double checked the harness for grounds, i made sure the efi relay was on, i made sure the ecu was connected, i checked two of my grounds that it had, when i started the motor i noticed that my CEL was not one when i try to start the car, i also hear a click in the rear when i let go of the key when cranking, idk if thats the fuel pump or may be TEMS, then i hear couple clicking noise in the front that always does since i had the car, like if something is getting ready, may be you guys might know what it is and could help.
i checked voltage on the ecu, i am getting power on the harness with the ecu connected still, i checked Eo1, E02, E1, VF, E2, M-REL, BATT, +B, +B1, and they all show voltage, i just checked the basic stuff, then i checked all my grounds with a digital multimeter, at the very part of the grounds on the engine and shows good source of power, i still get no fuel or spark, and the check engine light is still off, the engine does crank over, but does not start, do i have a bad ECU? the car was running right before i did the headgasket, and every thing is in place, also i will take a pic of the only one connector that is not connected.
in reading that...the clicks you hear when you put the key to the on position are relays. The click you hear from behind you is likely the fuel pump, though if you left the radio on it might also be the antenna. How did you confirm no fuel? To test fuel, put the key in the on position and listen carefully...you should hear teh pump come on. Another clearer to hear test is to leave the ignition on but not started and jumper the 2 sockets at the diagnostic block (Fp and +B). You should now clearly hear the fuel rushing around if you listen for it.
Now, if you put everything together but there is a harness connector not plugged in...I would start by plugging that in and see how you do.
every thing is connected ill take the pic of te one and only one connector that is not connected, but i did try the FP +B, and i have one of the fuel bolts off to see if fuel spits out, but doesnt, i dont know if the problem could be that i have tons of water in the back floor since we had a storm here, but i have no fuses popped, relays shows good signs, and im lost, and i have good grounds
do you measure any voltage across FP and +B, or get voltage but no fuel? Is the fuel pump relay and resistor all hooked up correctly on the passenger strut tower?
i checked the relay for the EFI, and shows voltage, i tried the jumpers from the diagnostic box but shows no voltage on there for the +b and FP, but if i check the DMM and if i put one wire to the positive and the other to the diag box then shows power, and same with the other, i can double check again tomorrow when it gets nice out again, its just weird that every thing shows power but doesnt want to start.
well i found out that +B in the diagnostic box is not getting any power dont know why, but i put a wire from the +B to a fuse and then to the positive and the check engine light turned on. but the battery is dead to see if it will start, and then i gotta see if i am getting gas, if not i will make a switch for that too, pretty weird that im not getting power, and then last night i put the FP to the positive and starting putting fuel, i heard it and seen fuel coming out of the bolt, the bolt was loose so i can see fuel
Anything is possible, but I'd suspect something is not hooked up correctly after taking it all apart. Check the wiring and connections at the cam position sensor as well as the ignitor and the fuel pump relay. The CPS wiring is something I see becoming more common among local owners. The little pig tails of wire are becoming easy to damage, and get loose inside the unit, or just have become brittle and break.
When the ignition switch is turned on, battery positive voltage is applied to terminal IGSW of the ECM and the EFI main relay (Marking: EFI) control circuit in the ECM sends a signal to a terminal of the ECM switching on the EFI main relay.
This signal causes current to flow to the coil, closing the contacts of the EFI, main relay and supplying power to terminals +B of the ECM (This same wire feeds the diag block in the engine bay).
If the ignition switch is turned off, the ECM continues to switch on the EFI main relay for a maximum of 2
seconds for the initial setting of the IAC valve.
Might want to check +b at the ECU and at the EFI main relay.
Or it may be your main EFI fuse (15A fuse, bottom right when looking at the fuse box in the engine bay)... The main crucial one, it controls the key operation of the EFI main relay.
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1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, 486hp, 494tq.
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Who came up with this 500px wide BS?
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