Hey guys i was looking into the 350 small block swap for my 87 N/A Supra 5 speed because of a recent knock in my motor. I cant really seem to find anything about the swap so i decided to come here and look unless there is a cheaper way out of the swap. Can i get some information on the swap and maybe a cheap way to fix the knock if the swap is to expensive.
The swap price depends on your ability to source or fabricate things yourself, what transmission option you choose etc. If you can do everything inhouse, and have a cheap source for the engine, you can do it very inexpensively. If you care that it looks as good as it can and all functions of the supra side of the car still work, it's going to cost you a fair bit. And of course, if you need a shop to do your fab work (mounts, brackets, intake pipes, wiring), it's going to cost a fortune.
I would suggest you do some web searches as this is not an uncommon swap, and several on Supramania have done LSx series swaps...though few if any were on the cheap!
If you have rod knock, the cheap swap is to pull it and fix it, or drop in an unknown JDM replacement and take your chances...
well i have the inhouse shop (my father in law owns a mechanic shop) and i can get the parts fabricated for fairly cheap i was also told i could do a 1uz-fe swap or whatever the engine code is for the lexus sc400 v8 but i did want to keep it 5 speed though. As for the the rod knock the motor its self was an unknown jdm swap.... and as far as fixing it i dont need to drop another 3gs into the damn 7m id rather get a permanent or very close to permanent fix so i can have a "summer fun car" for myself even though my wife does not approve of my Supra lol
Without getting too much into my opinions on used engines, the only permanent fix is to build it to tolerance, or have it done by someone you trust, or only buy an engine from a known source, where you saw it in action all the time
Machining the 7M properly will likely end up cheaper than any swap will by the time you get past fab costs, and of course the little detail about having to control the engine from there...For an old 350, you could go carbureted and wire it up pretty easily, but newer ones, and the 1UZ definitely need computer control, and there you're going to have to consider going to a standalone to make it fairly simple.
Machining the 7M properly will likely end up cheaper than any swap will by the time you get past fab costs, and of course the little detail about having to control the engine from there...For an old 350, you could go carbureted and wire it up pretty easily, but newer ones, and the 1UZ definitely need computer control, and there you're going to have to consider going to a standalone to make it fairly simple.
Quoted for Truth.
The only real costs that suck are your labor to pull an engine (which you'd have to do anyway for either option) and all the labor that you'd normally be doing anyway.
A proper machining for head and block is $200-300. A GOOD head gasket is ~$200, then your ARP head studs and the problem is solved. Just make sure that proper work is done at each step. Proper machining (smooth surface, not rough and such), Proper torque sequencing, proper installation of the gasket (NO copper gasket sealant crap), etc. etc. And when all is said and done you've got a great engine that'll take what you'll throw at it.
It's what I've done and many others and now I'm on an OS Giken clutch (and going AEM) because my old 575ft-lbs clutch blew before anything else did.
I'll also point out that I've never seen a really decent looking swap or aftermarket gauge configuration for a swapped engine in the car. Having to ditch ALL the Toyota Electronics package ends up looking so gaudy so often and almost no one takes the time or money to make it look decent.
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1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, 486hp, 494tq.
[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/rsw_sig_stupidTN.jpg[/img]
Who came up with this 500px wide BS?
well we have already replaced the hg and all then had a knock start so the hg is fresh i might as well get new studs and new rod kit might want to stroke it but i want a reliable rebuild on this one but labor is no problem just because i dont have to pay labor lol but i'll look into the rod kits maybe a stroker kit but all info is really wanted
Don't bother for an NA engine. There is almost no reliable power to be made. A few stroker kits were made in the past, but I can't for the life of me remember anyone owning up to how little they made after spending 3 or more times what it was worth...or in fact if any lasted more than a couple of miles. As I recall, none were terribly successful even with damn near unlimited funds. The 7M is already a stroked 2.8 5M motor...the next level that was tried aftermarket was 3.2L as I recall. If you want power as one of the goals of rebuilding this, consider a turbo. A properly rebuilt NA motor with metal gasket should still be able to generate 400-450 turboed every day without any serious issues. The transmission should be the weakest link...
so i should just look for a turbo kit for my motor and hope to God the knock i have is nothing serious and i should still be able to use my tranny with a turbo?
Knock is 98% of the time a serious issue. It's bearings and worn bearings aren't something that stands the test of time on an engine that's had it's power output increased by large amounts.
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1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, 486hp, 494tq.
[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/rsw_sig_stupidTN.jpg[/img]
Who came up with this 500px wide BS?
That is very understandable but my father in law a certified mechanic told he it shouldn't be something serious because we had the motor apart 3 weeks before the knock started. and seeing how this is a special car to me if this motor cannot be fixed in the current condition i'll just say to hell with the stock 7m motor and tranny and just move on to a 1jz or 2jz if i can find anyone to do the harness for the 2jz but i know a company that does it for the 1j but i just need a motor that will fuckin run.
Well, you seem set on swapping anything but a 7M. Your first post mentioned you wanted this to be an inexpensive repair, but every option so far is more expensive than the last.
At the end of the day, it comes down to what floats your boat. You need to ask yourself what you want from the car and then perhaps we can help you to find what is the ideal way to get it. If you want power, a turbo on a properly rebuilt 7M is the least expensive and most reliable method, particularly since you mention that fab and shop time is cheap and accessible for you. There is little hacking of the car to get what you want this way, and fewer things to go wrong. If you want a different or unique option, all of the above choices has been done over and over. SBC, JZ series, UZ series (fewer of them are running though) are all common. Hell, there is even an all electric one out there.
Cheap is also out the window with any swap, particularly for the 1j and 2j options, and that is if you cross your fingers and hope the used engines you get are in great shape.
Not trying to be unfriendly, but to get down to what it is you are looking for and to set reasonable expectations for you. We could throw out hypotheticals all day but knowing what you want will help us to lend guidance.
So rebuild or fix what i need to on my current motor and toss a turbo on it? Sounds fun i'd really like to do that but from what ive heard its kinda hard to put the turbo on the N/A motor... if you could help me on what i would need i'd love the info
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