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Hi and welcome,
I'll start with these questions: what do you want to do with it? Target power? Specific problem you are trying to overcome? If I know these I can be more direct with the rest. That said, here are some primers:
Following up on your list,
1. I wouldn't bother with cams...unless you've maxed out all the port and polish and are running 500+ HP there is no really significant. You can move the power around a bit. All the cams that are available are much more aggressive than stock as well. I have some regrinds in mine, but if they didn't come with the head already I wouldn't have paid for them.
2. HKS and Cometic make well known gaskets. I have an HKS stopper myself. A very nice gasket, and with a trip to a good machinist to skim the head and block is almost certain never to be a problem again. Skip that machinist visit and you're asking for trouble.
3. Are you referring to adjustable cam gears? There are a few styles out there from AEM, and unorthadox racing used to have a set (might still) and a couple of others. Base engine timing has been shown to be darn near perfect already, and there is nothing to be gained playing with it. Most have issues with idle and reduced power when it's not set to factory spec. Cams can be adjusted a bit, but like the camshafts in general, there's not a lot to gain here for the dollars.
4. pulleys - ATI makes a replacement harmonic damper. Saves about 3 lbs as I recall (I have one...nice, though expensive). Avoid the lightweight aluminium ebay pulleys unless you like replacing bearings frequently. The long cranks don't respond well to being undamped. There are a couple of small makers of accessory pulleys, but they are all show. Nothing to be gained here. Again, unorthadox used to make them, and I bought a set one time for the pretty factor, but if I had to do it again it was a few hundred that would have been better spent elsewhere.
5. no such thing as a "chipped" ecu for the 7M. You will either use a piggyback (MAFT-pro is the most comprehensive of these) or you could perform the HKS alphabet soup (VPC, GCC, SAFR etc) if you can find all the pieces. There is an additional mod that uses the lexus SC400 AFM and a set of 550cc injectors with an safc to tweak fuel that is always popular too (4 litre engine = 25% larger meter, 550cc = 25% larger injectors...), and then there are the standalones engine management systems. My preference is standalone for reliability and drivability across all situations, but it comes with a high entry cost. Yes, I went this way too.
6. No need if you are staying with the factory ECU. Spark is solid almost as far as you want to go. If you were at the really top end, perhaps you could consider an HKS twin power unit to augment it, but I've not heard of many with ignition needs beyond stock. Standalones would require a rethink, and I run a batch fired coil on plug setup with coils from the 2JZ. In hindsight, I could have easily run the factory coils for this job with no problem either!
7. Fuel - most of your system will need to be custom anyhow. I'd use a walboro 255Lph pump and that would carry you up to the 500hp mark. A high flow filter and new lines up to the fuel rail. Return it through an adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator and you are ready to roll here. With the CT-26 it is unlikely you will need to upgrade much beyond this, but if you started to max the system out you might look at upgraded injectors such as the lexus/550 setup above.
This is a pretty summary view. The fuel and ECU issues are the toughest challenges to getting it running, and I haven't even scratched the surface here. This should get you thinking about what it is you want.
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