I was wondering Which motor from a reliability stand point is better, a 1JZ-GTTE or 2JZ-GTTE? Considering both motors are stock with about the same amount of miles. I'm looking to do a swap into a Pick up and want to make it somewhat of a daily driver, but have the power when i need it. Please no opinions, only reply if you owned one of these motors
Also any tips on the swap would be greatly appreciated aside from the obvious stuff like custom motor mounts, drive shaft and radiator clearance. I'm talking more like does the shifter align with the stock cut out, and all the other little stuff that needs to be considered.
1jz - most of what you'll hear is hypothetical or based on a few thousand miles on already high mileage engines as the engine never stock on anything here. Most suggest it is a robust design, and like the 2j it only has occasional crank walk issues from the common sources. However, given the only ones you will find are swapped or imported, like all used parts you are taking a chance unless you are rebuilding.
2jz - in regular form and stock condition, it's bulletproof. Crank occasionally goes for a walk, but it's luck of hte draw. Anyone that used a super heavy pressure plate may have damaged the engine. Again, for relilability a rebuild is needed.
Shifter - depends. The 1j came with the R154 and the 2J with the getrag 6 speed. You can mix them up by swapping bellhousings, and can actually use the 5 speed w58 in a pinch, but all have slightly different shifter locations depending on what they came out of.
I plan on Rebuilding it back to manufacturer spec and maybe some small upgrades nothing rediculous. everything measured cleaned honed, or whatevers needed. im sure it will be more cleaning than replacing, but you never know. but im leaning more towards the 2j now because parts are easier to find than 1j.
I guess Tranny setup and wiring is the only major thing to look at now. and it will be going in my 96 tacoma when i get all the parts i need and another temporary DD. and ill be selling the 2RZ to help with costs when the time comes. hopefully it will be underway soon, so i can tear these damn hondas a new one!
im hoping to get reactions like this
Ill race you with my truck -
them at the start -
When they hear the BOV -
them after I pass them -
After they lose -
When they find out what motor -
when the time comes i might need help with wiring and fitting it in, so if you know what major changes i need and someone who can help with it it would be greatly appreciated because i have no fabrication experience at all.
wiring will all be custom. I woudn't be able to help. You are going to spend weeks pouring over the EWD's from Toyota for both vehicles learning what each and every circuit does, what you need to cross connect, and how it needs to work, as well as what you will have to add or delete from the setup.
I'm sure the Taco has had this swap done somewhere, but I have no familiarity with it. I would personally junk all factory electronics and install a standalone EMS, but that has it's own issues to overcome.
No fab experience? How are you planning to do the hard mounting of the components?
i dont know yet, im still thinking this through. hopefully i find someone willing to help with it, and what do you mean about cross connecting, provided the ECU goes to the passenger side through the bulkhead, why would i have to cut the harness? and what exactly is a stand alone system and its functions?
im sure these questions sound dumb but ive never really done a swap that doesnt already have aftermarket parts for it, such as RB silvias and stuff. im still trying to learn.
The supra ECU will not plug into the body harness of the taco, and the taco computer won't control the 2j...hence, to get it to work, you need to use the 2j harness and computer, and for all functions the taco computer controlled via the body or dash harness, you have to figure out how to get the supra ECU to control them, or how to get something else to control them, forgetting that you have to splice the wiring harness to use a combination of 2j and taco bits depending on what you need to do. Examples include climate control (aircon needs to talk to the ECU), progressive power steering relies on speed sensors, the ECU monitors ABS sensors that may not be compatible for the traction control etc...it all depends on what you want. If you want every day every function, you're heading down a path that took me almost 15 years of ownership to really understand and get the stones to try...and there is very little I won't try.
standalone ECU...exactly what it sounds like. An aftermarket engine management system that you need to wire, program and ultimately rely on to get your engine running. Upsides: you can get around sensor issues easier as you swap them out or choose to not use some. Most ECU can also talk to almost any sensor if you tell it what it is you are using. Some are more flexible than others. In addition, you only have to worry about how to get the tacoma side stuff to work. The engine is completely on it's own and has almost no need to talk to any factory parts.
I always love a good challenge, and i want to make this work but i will take my time to do it right. i thought the A/C is all rheostat switches, and the compressor was controlled by the ECU. its a base model, Manual locks, seats and windows. ive got access to alldata right now and since im taking advanced electrical class i think this would be a good way to practice.
You need to figure out the interplay. I have no experience in the tacoma or how it is set up. Most ECU's watch the AC pressure switches so they know to idle up a bit when the AC is running, but the taco may be different.
ac pressure switches are physically on the lines in and out of the evaporator, but electrically the wires could run anywhere. You will need the TSRM and EWD's for both vehicles and to get an in depth understanding of your taco at least. As zembones noted above, and I've eluded to, this is not a "figure out a couple wires and let er rip" swap. You might contact the owner of that taco you referenced as he has figured it out. That said, he will likely expect he is dealing with someone that has done the research first. A lot of old timers are like that, and for good reason: this is not a quick Q&A.
Cliffs: read your TSRM, read the Supra TSRM, figure out what circuits you are going to have to figure out and then you can start to ask the precise questions. AC will likely be the least of your worries, I simply referenced it as I know that one will come up.
That truck in that link you posted is sick!! After i was reading this thread i was thinking the whole time that this motor isn't even gonna fit without serious structural mods, but that just proved me wrong. Look at how close that crank is to the radiator tho..and where are his fans even at?. I'm thinking now that heat is gonna be a big problem with this swap. Especially if your planning on drifting or autocross.
hes got electric fans pushing air through the radiator, and i know this isnt a plug nd play operation, more like brain surgery. Ill take a look at all the PCM circuits and all the BCM circuits of both vehicles and find out which wire is for what, starting with the truck cuz i dont have the 2J yet.
Also in that link i saw that he Modified the stock tranny mount to work, that and the motor mounts are going to be the most critical fabricated parts for sure, nd drive shaft.
and i was hoping to keep the engine close to stock too, so EGR, PCV, IAC and all that is still going to be there. if its possible, but im going to worry about that later when the time comes. il get my EWDs tomorrow for the taco and see what i got.
I've done a JDM to USDM swap in a Tercel and may be able to shed some light here. Open both ecu's and with a strong magnifying glass read the codes off the printed circuit boards where the pins connect. You may need to relocate a few wires in the plug or make a jumper harness to connect your plug to that ecu. If both ecu's are USDM then the wiring will be similar in color per code. The most important part is the ecu to engine controls. Some of the dash stuff you won't need such as the boost display. Other stuff will be in the harness that is car specific that you won't need. That will be stuff like wipers, lighting, horn, radiator fans and the fusebox. The first time you make a harness it's hard to make yourself get rid of the clutter but it's far better in end. I recommend getting a harness from salvage exactly like yours to use. That way should you ever need to go back to stock you have the ecu, harness and engine in a package.
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