Hi Guys,
Sorry I have to post a Lexus problem in the Supra forum, because I cannot find a IS300 forum under Lexus.
I bought a 2001 Lexus IS300 automatic with 145k miles last Sunday.
The car has this knocking sound when running, my ears are not that great, but it seems to me the sound comes from the top of the engine, but I am not 100% sure.
It has the following CEL codes: P0300 P0301 P0303 P0304 P0305. So it misfires too.
The engine revs to 6,7000 rpm seems fine, although much louder at that RPM, and the car drives, quite gutless, although it can be driven to 7,80 km/h.
I am wondering if this is rod-knock or it has problems with valves? When an engine has rod-knocks, will it have full (or near full) power? Mine does not have that much power right now, so I am thinking maybe some valves got bent? The noises sound like valve taps too, and that would also explain the mis-fires?
I took the upper timing cover off, and it seems to me that timing/cam position relative to crank is right.
I don't know about your noise, but judging by the looks of that timing belt if you don't change it like now youre going to need a motor anyways. It's a vvti engine and when that belt goes it'll bend every valve in it. I'd at least stick one on it and just install the big washer and bolt the crank pulley on.It's hard to say with noises but if you can disconnect one injector at a time and see if the noise changes when revving the motor it might help. A change would tell me it's rod or piston related. No change would be cam train or lower end.
The Following User Says Thank You to Ted Striker For This Useful Post:
If that's a valve problem it's the loudest I've ever heard. Check the top end first as it's fairly easy. If it's not there, the engine is likely coming out for a teardown to see where it's gone wrong.
The Following User Says Thank You to bgrieger For This Useful Post:
I don't know about your noise, but judging by the looks of that timing belt if you don't change it like now youre going to need a motor anyways. It's a vvti engine and when that belt goes it'll bend every valve in it. I'd at least stick one on it and just install the big washer and bolt the crank pulley on.It's hard to say with noises but if you can disconnect one injector at a time and see if the noise changes when revving the motor it might help. A change would tell me it's rod or piston related. No change would be cam train or lower end.
Thanks, I will definitely change the timing belt after the problem is found and fixed. I will try disconnecting the injector one at a time and listen to changes.
If that's a valve problem it's the loudest I've ever heard. Check the top end first as it's fairly easy. If it's not there, the engine is likely coming out for a teardown to see where it's gone wrong.
Thanks bgrieger, I will pull the plugs next, and check compression, then take the valve cover off I guess...
Didn't notice your video link the first time I read it. Sounds to me like a severe lifter tick. Has anyone been in the motor as far as you can tell? It could also be poor oil pressure in the top end. I'd do 2 things. Pull the valve covers and remove the front two cam caps, look to see if the bearing surface is scored indicating poor lubrication. Check all the cam caps to make sure they are in the right order and direction, all arrows should face the front, all numbers in order ie. I1,I2, etc. some carry oil passages and being incorrect can cause issues. Check the valve clearances. Look at the sides of the lifter buckets for scoring. What I've seen happen is the buckets stick in the holes in the head and also have seen the tips inside the buckets wear out where they contact the valves. If its been apart it may be that someone screwed up the order the shims go in, maybe some are too loose and some are too tight. You probably won't see that with a compression check. Your misfire and lack of power could be coming from poor oil pressure in the head. The vvti needs oil to properly change the intake cam timing. Without that the power would be very poor.
Hope this helps
The Following User Says Thank You to Ted Striker For This Useful Post:
Didn't notice your video link the first time I read it. Sounds to me like a severe lifter tick. Has anyone been in the motor as far as you can tell? It could also be poor oil pressure in the top end. I'd do 2 things. Pull the valve covers and remove the front two cam caps, look to see if the bearing surface is scored indicating poor lubrication. Check all the cam caps to make sure they are in the right order and direction, all arrows should face the front, all numbers in order ie. I1,I2, etc. some carry oil passages and being incorrect can cause issues. Check the valve clearances. Look at the sides of the lifter buckets for scoring. What I've seen happen is the buckets stick in the holes in the head and also have seen the tips inside the buckets wear out where they contact the valves. If its been apart it may be that someone screwed up the order the shims go in, maybe some are too loose and some are too tight. You probably won't see that with a compression check. Your misfire and lack of power could be coming from poor oil pressure in the head. The vvti needs oil to properly change the intake cam timing. Without that the power would be very poor.
Hope this helps
Thanks Ted, I will do what you said after I get the valve covers off.
The previous owner does not look like a car guy, the engine bay is not very clean. However, the car definitely has been fixed before. I was trying to get the spark plugs checked, during the process, when I took off the throttle body, I have seen 1 screw missing, and engine cover screws were different than those said in the repair manual.
But valve covers seem like ok, seems like they are "original" not been taken apart recently, I guess I will find out after I take them off.
So, you don't think this is bottom end noise, like rod knock, or piston skirt hitting cylinder wall type?
Doesnt sound like lower end. Usually a rod knock or piston slap is more noticeable when revving the engine or on acceleration. Lower end noises have a deeper pitch. Yours sounds like a sewing machine. Tap tap tap. The frequency is fast, your cams spin faster than your crank does. I've seen it before. I'm betting on it being an oil pressure issue. Also look for sludge with the valve covers off.
Btw I'm a current Toyota MDT, former Lexus master. FWIW.
The Following User Says Thank You to Ted Striker For This Useful Post:
Doesnt sound like lower end. Usually a rod knock or piston slap is more noticeable when revving the engine or on acceleration. Lower end noises have a deeper pitch. Yours sounds like a sewing machine. Tap tap tap. The frequency is fast, your cams spin faster than your crank does. I've seen it before. I'm betting on it being an oil pressure issue. Also look for sludge with the valve covers off.
Btw I'm a current Toyota MDT, former Lexus master. FWIW.
Thanks again Ted, it is good to hear that it is a top end issue.
I took the spark plugs #1 and #5 off last night (since these 2 dont require taking off the throttle body), by peeking into the spark plug holes, I can see a little bit of the piston surfaces.
#1 seems dry, but I can see some oily surface on the #5 piston. Does this mean, I may have some bent valves or valves not seating correctly? I have 0300, 0301, 0303, 0304, and 0305 misfire codes too.
The previous owner was not able to take the last coil off, so he has 1 old Denso SK16R and 5 newer NGK BKR6E GP plugs.
I tested them with a Ohm meter, between the boot contact and the ground screw, and all tested >20Mohm (the maximum my meter can test). And the gaps are ok.
However, the Denso has 6.5K between contact and the tip (electrode?), the other 4 NGK's range from 4.5K to 5K. The last NGK registers >20M between the contact and the tip, so I think this is a dead plug.
The 3 wires, the one for the #1 plug (from the #3 coil) is dead, the meter cannot read any resistance. The other two wires read 6.2K and 8K.
The 3 coils, all read 0.5 Ohm in the primary, and ~11.5K in the secondary. So I think they are good.
My question is: will a 2jz running on 4 cylinders exhibit the "knocking/tapping/loud ticking" sound shown in my video?
And is the NGK BKR6E the right plugs? Should I buy 6 new Denso or 2 more BKR6E?
I first took the exhaust valve cover off. The screws were really tight, so I **think** it was not taken off before/recently.
The cams **look** good, I was expecting a trash can there, it seems it has oil flow, the #1 cylinder cams all pointing up, which is good I think... All the cam bearings are installed correctly, the arrows all point to front, and the order is correct, E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 E7, there is no E1.
I took E3 off, and as soon as I loose the screw, there was oil gushing out, so I think it had oil lubrication, so I guess the oil passage seems fine for this bearing?
However, there are minor scores / scars on both bearing and cam shaft surfaces. Are these bad?
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