I have $2000...

[RichMann]

,,, so what to do with my Supra to make it's acceleration faster???

A new 'free-flow' exhaust?

A professional tune-up?

Need other suggestions, what do you think?

[Jeeves]

Depends. Turbo? N/A?

On the Turbo you can do a lot with $2000.


-Basics-
· Intake
· Full 3" Exhaust (Including a NO backpressure muffler ("Turbo Muffler") system)
· Suprasport.com (or similiar) 3" turbo elbow
· Make sure the throttle linkage is tight.

-More Hardcore-
· HKS VPC (Discontinued, but can be had for a decent price)
· Intercooler kit (Stock intercooler has nasty PSI drop), Hardpipes are a plus but not required for "acceleration"

A tune up isn't a bad idea, but there's not much that can be done. Make sure the oil is nice and new, change the filter element, put in a new o2 sensor, new spark plugs, and MAYBE replace your plug wires.

[RichMann]

Originally posted by Jeeves
Depends. Turbo? N/A?

N/A '93

Originally posted by Jeeves On the Turbo you can do a lot with $2000.


-Basics-
· Intake
· Full 3" Exhaust (Including a NO backpressure muffler ("Turbo Muffler") system)
· Suprasport.com (or similiar) 3" turbo elbow
· Make sure the throttle linkage is tight.

-More Hardcore-
· HKS VPC (Discontinued, but can be had for a decent price)
· Intercooler kit (Stock intercooler has nasty PSI drop), Hardpipes are a plus but not required for "acceleration"

A tune up isn't a bad idea, but there's not much that can be done. Make sure the oil is nice and new, change the filter element, put in a new o2 sensor, new spark plugs, and MAYBE replace your plug wires.

Do those things apply to the N/A also?

Do all exhausts have a backpressure muffler?

Would a new free-flow exhaust increase acceleration?

What about lowering the car by ~40mm, a friend of mine said that would increase acceleration, but I can't see how it would increase it that much.

thanks for the suggestions, any other ideas welcome

[mkivsoopra]

Sorry to say that $2000 isn't going to get you much more power without using nitrous or going turbo.

You can gain maybe 20 or so with a header, catback exhaust, tuned fuel controller, and intake.

If speed and acceleration is your goal, your best bet is to do some general maintenance, then save the rest to go turbo later on, or sell the car.

[MRQtwinturbo]

lowering the car might make your accellaration faster thru the corners...spend that money and get a tuneup first.....then worry about modding......best bang for your buck NA would prolly be nitrous.......

[RichMann]

Originally posted by MRQturbo
lowering the car might make your accellaration faster thru the corners...spend that money and get a tuneup first.....then worry about modding......best bang for your buck NA would prolly be nitrous.......

nitrous seems like a good idea

but you need a system to inject it right? surely that would cost more than $2000??

also say you use nitrous to boost your acceleration, unless you have a system to 'feed' it, all the nitrous will be used at once, does it come in containers or something? how much do they cost each ~$500?

thanks again



what's that on the left side of your car, to the left of your back window?

[MRQtwinturbo]

^^its a TOM's scoop.....feeds cold air to intake....mainly more for looks than function....

[repinS]

suspension bushings? That'd be great for an MKI, MKII or MKIII... but I have no clue how good/bad MKIV factory bushings are.

[CamNub]

Nitrous isn't really that good in my opinion. Its like 1 minute of speed, then you have to buy another bottle.

If i were you, I'd tune it and beef that engine up. Then go the turbo route.

[mkivsoopra]

Originally posted by repinS
suspension bushings? That'd be great for an MKI, MKII or MKIII... but I have no clue how good/bad MKIV factory bushings are.

New, they were ok. But the cars are starting to show their age, so aftermarket bushings are not a bad idea (though you won't find much of a selection).

[Jeeves]

Originally posted by RichMann
nitrous seems like a good idea

but you need a system to inject it right? surely that would cost more than $2000??

also say you use nitrous to boost your acceleration, unless you have a system to 'feed' it, all the nitrous will be used at once, does it come in containers or something? how much do they cost each ~$500?

thanks again

Nitrous comes in a tank and the systems are fairly cheap. The pressure in the tank feeds it into the intake piping. In essence it's a form of forced induction that just uses a refillable substance (n2o) to power the acceleration. It is dangerous to use it at a low RPM so often it is only activated above a certain RPM (often in the 2,500 - 3,000 range).

When you heat N2O to about 570 degrees F (~300 C), it splits into oxygen and nitrogen. So the injection of nitrous oxide into an engine means that more oxygen is available during combustion. Because you have more oxygen, you can also inject more fuel, allowing the same engine to produce more power.

Nitrous oxide has another effect that improves performance even more. When it vaporizes, nitrous oxide provides a significant cooling effect on the intake air. When you reduce the intake air temperature, you increase the air's density, and this provides even more oxygen inside the cylinder.

Also keep in mind there are different types of kits, wet, dry and direct port.

Wet systems
This system fires nitrous oxide into the cars engine along side the additional fuel required to make the power. These systems supply a nozzle for the intake that has 2 inputs. One for nitrous oxide and the other for fuel. Because fuel is being mixed with the nitrous at the point of injection we call it a wet nitrous kits.

Dry Systems
These systems do not have a fuel solenoid as the additional fuel is supplied by the cars own injectors. This means that at the point of injection there is only nitrous oxide, no fuel. This is why we call these systems dry nitrous kits.

Direct Port
Direct port nitrous oxide systems use 4 injector nozzles and are screwed into the intake manifold branch of the cars engine. One nozzle per branch.

I'm not a big fan of it personally. But if I were, and had a Mk3. I'd run a 75shot wet kit.

[userlain]

$1800 will get you a forged internals kit. $200 will get you a gasket("rebuild") set.

While you have the engine apart, you can clean everything, and hone the cylinders.

That will prep you for big power.

[RichMann]

Originally posted by Jeeves
Nitrous comes in a tank and the systems are fairly cheap. The pressure in the tank feeds it into the intake piping. In essence it's a form of forced induction that just uses a refillable substance (n2o) to power the acceleration. It is dangerous to use it at a low RPM so often it is only activated above a certain RPM (often in the 2,500 - 3,000 range).

When you heat N2O to about 570 degrees F (~300 C), it splits into oxygen and nitrogen. So the injection of nitrous oxide into an engine means that more oxygen is available during combustion. Because you have more oxygen, you can also inject more fuel, allowing the same engine to produce more power.

Nitrous oxide has another effect that improves performance even more. When it vaporizes, nitrous oxide provides a significant cooling effect on the intake air. When you reduce the intake air temperature, you increase the air's density, and this provides even more oxygen inside the cylinder.

Also keep in mind there are different types of kits, wet, dry and direct port.

Wet systems
This system fires nitrous oxide into the cars engine along side the additional fuel required to make the power. These systems supply a nozzle for the intake that has 2 inputs. One for nitrous oxide and the other for fuel. Because fuel is being mixed with the nitrous at the point of injection we call it a wet nitrous kits.

Dry Systems
These systems do not have a fuel solenoid as the additional fuel is supplied by the cars own injectors. This means that at the point of injection there is only nitrous oxide, no fuel. This is why we call these systems dry nitrous kits.

Direct Port
Direct port nitrous oxide systems use 4 injector nozzles and are screwed into the intake manifold branch of the cars engine. One nozzle per branch.

I'm not a big fan of it personally. But if I were, and had a Mk3. I'd run a 75shot wet kit.

wow, many thanks for all the info Jeeves

there's just one question, a while back I accedently increased the rpm into the red zone on the rpm counter, the car started to chug telling me to change gear

so that must mean nitrous works separately from the engine right? else rpm would go through the roof and put the car into serious problems.

[mkivsoopra]

Originally posted by RichMann
wow, many thanks for all the info Jeeves

there's just one question, a while back I accedently increased the rpm into the red zone on the rpm counter, the car started to chug telling me to change gear

so that must mean nitrous works separately from the engine right? else rpm would go through the roof and put the car into serious problems.

umm.. nitrous works directly with the engine. If you don't shift, pray that the rev limiter will save your engine.

[Jeeves]

RichMann,
You've officially confused me.

You should not over-rev a motor. The redline is there for a reason. Also, I've never had it "tell me to change gears", but I can only assume that's the rev-limiter. In short, it prevents you from going any further on the tachometer and utterly destroying your engine.

Nitrous, however, often has window switches (IMHO They are the safest way to use nitrous). A window switch is just like it says, it will only fire nitrous in an RPM Window (i.e. from 3,000rpm -> 5,000rpm). Anything outside of the set boundaries and it will shut off. Unlike in "The Fast & The Furious", you don't just press a button anytime and it works. Simply doesn't work that way unless you intend to blow stuff up.