88 supra na 89 supra na

[purplehaze210]

I have an 89 supra na high miles but rebuilt engine so it'll go for awhile. but it's an older car and so it's not top notch and the interior and some exterior parts need work. I could buy an 88 supra na for 500 bucks.... it runs, but it's in sad shape... paint chipping off that kind of stuff... poor little supra. Anyways... the cars look similar, would I be able to swap out hood and rear end... ( the 88 has a spoiler, mine doesn't for some reason ) what differences in engine types, radiators, etc. Bottom line I want to scrap the 88 and use it for parts to make my 89 look/run better. Will it work?

[Jeeves]

The only N/A's that got spoilers and such were ones that were ordered with the sport package. This packages was only standard on the Turbo models and optional otherwise.

No, this won't work. There was a major change in many exterior pieces between the 88 and 89 model year. Some stuff will fit/work, others just won't.

Engines will be mostly the same (Motor mounts and some misc. stuff changed), wiring harnesses changed in those years, so only one harness will actually be of any use, the tail lights changed, etc...

Here's a longer list:

1988:
-Essential carry-over from 1987
-Redesigned rear 3rd brake light on rear spoiler (trapezoid vs rectangle)
-Interior cloth material changed
-Headlight pushrods threaded
-Rear sway bar endlinks changed to plastic construction
-Slight changes made to the climate controller, radio, and left-side buttons (made slightly darker)
-Seat belt guides added to front seats
-Cloth sunvisors replace vinyl ones on hardtops



1989:

-MKIII recieves it's first major update, both on the interior and exterior
-Redesigned mouldings (different shape, as well as being entirely plastic)
-New rear tail-lights (3-piece, goes all the way across the rear) (non-European Countries Only)
-New 3-piece rear spoiler
-New mirrors on the doors (reshaped)
-New steering wheel (cruise on/off switch moved to the wheel, switch replaced with coin holder)
-New front bumper cover (including new fog lights)
-New front turn signals (not as wide)
-New front grilles (2 as opposed to a single one)
-Cup holders added underneath center console lid
-New climate control
-New steering column stalks (turn signals/headlights/wipers)
-Switches on left side of steering column changed from silver colour to black
-Power window switches updated
-Rear seatbelts are changed to shoulder belts
-Front seatbelts get updated (the top mount plastic is redesigned)
-Rear speakers get updated (2 extra are added in the rear panels beside the seats)
-Instrument cluster updated (less lines on gauges, speedo up to 260km/h - from 240km/h, lights are now completely blacked out unless lit up)
-Shift boot, shift knob, e-brake handle, steering wheel, and steering column become black
-Updated stereo to match other new interior components
-Seats get extra power assist (tilt back/forward - changed from the old knob on side)
-Turbo rear end gets changed to 3.73:1 gearing, opposed to the old 3.91:1
-Headlight washers no longer an option (US Only)
-Horsepower up to 232hp (from 230hp), torque up to 254ft-lbs (from 246ft-lbs)
-Halfway through 1989, the engine crossmember changes, as does the wiring harness and engine mounts, as well as the ECU
-Progressive speed-based power steering added
-ABS now standard
-Wiring for "Super Monitor" no longer included, and it is no longer an option
-"White Package" now available, includes white trim pieces, and white wheels, on a white car
-Strut manufacturer changes
-Car drops in height by 12mm (about 1/2")
-Rear subframe receives 2 extra braces
-Late models have completely standardized body harness, with wiring for every option (NA/Turbo/Manual/Auto/TEMS) -- body harness, not engine harness
-At some point in the 89 model year the engine crank changed over to fully balanced 7M crank, redline dropped to 6250 from 6500
-Aluminum replaces steel on the brake master cylinder
-TEMS actuators become smaller

[purplehaze210]

So is that a resounding no? I have to be honest here... I have a hanes manual and no experience in actually doing any of the stuff I would like to do so I really just see a long list and it will take me a long time to interpret it all. My biggest concerns are...

Engine - mine leaks a lot of oil... A LOT... eventually I want to upgrade to a turbo but for now would the 88's do the trick assuming it's in better shape.
Hood - my hood has a big dent... I don't like dents.
Fender - see hood

I think you're saying the "trunk" would be of no use to me so I'll skip that.

I also have no heat so I was thinking of skavenging the heater core (I replaced the thermostat and that didn't do the trick)

and a short list of interior parts that I would like to replace like the seatbelt guides... small stuff like that.



Any elaboration is appreciated... I'm new to this but eager to learn.

[Jeeves]

Motor will swap, but you must retain your old wiring harness. It sounds like your front main seal may be blown, or you've got oil coming from any number of places.

Hood will swap.
Fender: Which fender?
Trunk: Trunk?


As for your heat issue:

If your heater fan runs normally but there is no heat, the vacuum solenoid valve (VSV) probably needs to be replaced. With two exceptions, the VSV is energized anytime the engine is running which allows vacuum to be applied to the hot water valve actuator which in turn opens the heater core hot water valve. If the VSV is burned out, the water valve won't open producing the no heat symptom.

Determine if the VSV is malfunctioning

1) Find the valve that controls the flow of hot water to the heater core. It's located in the engine compartment on the passenger side firewall about a foot inboard of the right hood strut behind the black cylindrical charcoal canister (Picture 1). There is a vacuum hose running from the top of the valve actuator to the vacuum solenoid valve (VSV). There is another short (2") rubber vacuum hose that connects the solenoid to a vacuum line that runs along the firewall behind the engine. These two lines are joined by a male/male connector
2) Start the car and put the temperature control system in the AUTO mode and adjust it to it's lowest setting (65 deg F). The fan should be on high and the control rod coming out of the bottom of the water valve actuator should be extended (down) which closes the water valve (Picture 2)
3) With the car running, the AC off, the temperature control system in the AUTO mode, adjust the temperature to anything but it's lowest setting (66 deg F or higher). The control rod coming out of the bottom of the water valve actuator should now be retracted (up) which allows water flow to the heater core (Picture 3)
4) If the control rod doesn't move, unplug the VSV electrical connector and see if there is 12 volts at the female side of the connector (coming from the wiring harness). If there is 12 volts here the VSV is most likely burned out. Double check with an ohmmeter to make sure it's the solenoid that's burned out and not just a bad connection. Measure the resistance between the contacts in the male side of the connector (coming from the VSV). A good valve should have a resistance of around 25 ohms. At least this is the resistance of the Mercedes Benz replacement unit - Toyota's unit might be a little more or less (the failed Toyota unit I took out of my car measured 852 ohms)
5) If there is no voltage at the female side of the connector, stop here - the problem may be with the A/C control panel assembly
6) If the control rod moves up and down the VSV is OK. Stop here - the problem is with some other part of the system

How to bypass the VSV to get heat temporarily while waiting for replacement


1) This will cause the heater core water valve to open anytime the engine is running .
2) Unplug the short solenoid vacuum hose from the male/male connector
3) Unplug the valve actuator vacuum hose from the solenoid valve and plug it onto the male/male connector the short hose was disconnected from (Picture 4)
4) If the car is running and the rest of the system is working correctly, as the actuator line is plugged onto the male/male connector vacuum will pull the control rod up and open the water valve

Rest of the article, here.

[Supraracer]

would I be able to swap out hood and rear end... ( the 88 has a spoiler, mine doesn't for some reason ) what differences in engine types, radiators, etc. Bottom line I want to scrap the 88 and use it for parts to make my 89 look/run better. Will it work?

The hoods are identical, the fenders and the rear hatch are also. radiator, engine, tranny, everything will swap. the motor you have to switch over the wiring harness, and the coolant sensors(they just screw in and out....easy) and swap over the motor mounts from the 89 as the front K frame is differant(it moved the motor forward an inch or so). as far as everything else its just a matter of taking it off one car and putting it on the other. if you have any further questions email me at Bassboss2001@hotmail.com as ive owned a 86.5, 87 NA and 87 and 90Turbo, i know what will swap over and what wont, and what has to be done to make this work. if the 88 is only $500 bucks you can swap over what you need, swap over the bad stuff from your car ans till sell the 88 for more than $500. trust me ive done it. let me know if you need more help.

~Ryan

[purplehaze210]

Thank you sooo much, I will e-mail if I do. Special thanks to Jeeves as well... I live in Wisconsin and it's been a cold...COLD winter without heat in the car.

[purplehaze210]

Er ok I need to revise my question. It turns out the supra is an 87. Will the hood/hatch etc previously discussed still swap out? Please advise.

[Jeeves]

Which is an 87?