7MGE Oil Pump Probs? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Hofajoab · 03-24-2005, 07:46 PM

ust bought a '88 N/A. Was driving home and i heard a sort of rattling coming from the top of the engine (as far as i could hear), i presumed it was a bit of cam wear knocking a bit, but it only does it when maintaining a constant speed, not accelerating or deaccelerating. After a while i heard my tappets getting louder and louder but never thought anything of it as my engine oil looks like it's never been changed and the oi l pressure was still good. so.... after a little longer i started to hear a knocking and that's when i pulled over and turned engine off, water overflowing from the reservoir overflow pipe. I quickly started it again to double check oil pressure and it read 0, nothing.

I want to know what your thoughts are on the problem? simply replace oil pump? maybe bearings are shot now although i did have oil pressure until i stopped the engine.

Thanks.

supranerd1987 · 03-24-2005, 10:10 PM

from what your describing its sounds like rod knock. I had the same problem with mine but after an engine swap it was up and runnin again

After the engine and labor it cost me a total of $1500...not bad considering the install was included.

Jeeves · 03-25-2005, 11:00 AM

Welcome to rod knock. As an fyi, there aren't hydraulic lifters in our head nor does cam wear make much of a noise. If you're hearing it inside the cab, it's definately a bad thing. The injectors are noisy, but not "mechanical, something in my motor" noisy.

To repair rod knock you're either looking at a motor swap or a rebuild. Either way, expect it to be > $1000 USD.

repinS · 03-25-2005, 11:05 AM

I'll third what's been said. Likely a blown head gasket left unfixed, leading to the rod knock.

supranerd1987 · 03-25-2005, 12:39 PM

I drove my engine with rod knock for about a week until it finally broke off and locked the rears....craziest thing ive ever delt with. So my advice get it fixed ASAP!

Jeeves · 03-25-2005, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supranerd1987

I drove my engine with rod knock for about a week until it finally broke off and locked the rears....craziest thing ive ever delt with. So my advice get it fixed ASAP!

WHAT?!

Locked the rears? If a rod breaks, it'll most likely punch a huge hole through the side of your motor...

supranerd1987 · 03-25-2005, 12:51 PM

ya it was weird i thought it would shoot out to but the mechcanic said it stayed inside!!?!

Hofajoab · 03-25-2005, 01:36 PM

Yeah cheers,

I managed to source an engine today which arrives tomorrow. Already have the broken engine ready to be lifted out so hopefully will be back on the road asap.

Well atleast i know what rod knock sounds like first hand lol

wambus · 04-03-2008, 07:37 AM

I am researching my car. It is a 1987 Supra, NA. My son bought it and I am using it until I can find the Toyota pickup I want (my previous Toyota truck died). The oil guage dropped to zero while my son was driving it. No problems, though (oil visible being slung around in the top end with the filler cap off) and he drove it (way too hard) for several months that way. It sat variously for 3 years or so due to a clogged radiator. I fixed that and am driving it.

Now it is developing a rattle that sounds vaguely like valve rattle but is not... I am beginning to sense it is bearings. With the engine running at around 2k rpm (idle is high for some reason) it rattles, but it is multiple rattles, and not really in synch (but seems t increase with rpm). If you manually press the linkage a little, the rattle goes away. This is not the case when driving and accelerating. It also goes away when you decelerate in gear.

Can the lower end be done from under the car or do I have to pull the engine? Is it possible I have some other problem? If the oil pump really is bad, can I replace it and add some goo like Lucas to it to extend the life? I really, really like driving the car but need a truck so this is really temporary...

Jeeves · 04-03-2008, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wambus

I am researching my car. It is a 1987 Supra, NA. My son bought it and I am using it until I can find the Toyota pickup I want (my previous Toyota truck died). The oil guage dropped to zero while my son was driving it. No problems, though (oil visible being slung around in the top end with the filler cap off) and he drove it (way too hard) for several months that way. It sat variously for 3 years or so due to a clogged radiator. I fixed that and am driving it.

Now it is developing a rattle that sounds vaguely like valve rattle but is not... I am beginning to sense it is bearings. With the engine running at around 2k rpm (idle is high for some reason) it rattles, but it is multiple rattles, and not really in synch (but seems t increase with rpm). If you manually press the linkage a little, the rattle goes away. This is not the case when driving and accelerating. It also goes away when you decelerate in gear.

Can the lower end be done from under the car or do I have to pull the engine? Is it possible I have some other problem? If the oil pump really is bad, can I replace it and add some goo like Lucas to it to extend the life? I really, really like driving the car but need a truck so this is really temporary...

Rod Knock is -usually- consistent and will get louder with RPMs. Can you isolate the location of the rattles? Could be an exhaust hanger or something else.

If you pull the lower cross member, jack up the nose of the engine with a jack and a wood block and you can drop the oil pan. It's a good amount of work, but it can be done.

wambus · 04-03-2008, 06:46 PM

My wife is a nurse and has an extra stethoscope that I have miss-placed or I would have already used it. The sound does seem to be coming from everywhere at once.

Interestingly enough, After work tonight it did not rattle at all for the warm-up and several miles of driving. Then it rattled a lot. Then it quieted down a lot. The non-rattling period was marked by closer to normal idle speed when I stopped. the loud rattle period was marked by idle speed of about 2100 rpms. In the the later quieter period the idle was back down closer to 1500 rpms. The thing is, when it is quiet at idle it is quiet while driving at all other rpms. When it is noisy at idle it is noisy when driving at all other rpms. It does not seem to get any louder, just faster when I increase speed. I did not think that bad rod bearings did that....