Hello Supra Forum, my name is Joe. I enjoy working on cars the way any average white teenager son of a mechanic would. My father owns 1960 and 62 Willy’s Jeeps, 1962 VW Beetle, 1966 Corvette, 1981 Toyota Corona, 1994 and 2002 Chrysler Town and Country minivans, and 2004 Honda Civic Hybrid. I drive the Toyota Corona. What an awesome car! Too bad people never believe me when I tell them I drive a Corona. "You mean Corolla?" "No ass, I said Corona."
So though I have loaded a satisfactory sound system into my dad’s Corona, the stock 90ish Horsepower just isn’t enough for a power hungry teen who likes to show up these douche bags who all drive the same damn thing: 4th gen mustangs. God, I hate them! Unfortunately, It’s hard to do that with my Corona. I’m only able to drown out their poopy sound systems, but not smoke them. Hence, my hunt for a sports car.
So I looked and looked and searched and searched through pictures, ads, reviews, classifieds, and pretty much all of my mechanic relatives. I seem to feel the most attracted to 80s sports cars, American and others. So a Camaro is out of the question, too many have them in this area. Same with the Eclipse. I fookin’ hate Hondas. So the Nissan 300ZX showed its face. I checked a couple of them out. It seems all reviews said the same: bad electrical systems. I still wanted one. My dad wouldn’t let me buy one. Thank God.
One day I was driving home and I spotted a 300ZX Turbo in an abandoned mechanic’s lot. So as I went to check it out, here was this white 1989 Toyota Supra Non-Turbo right behind it. I fell in love. But then again, it’s not Turbo and it’s an automatic. Poop and poopier.
So this Supra has a smashed rear bumper, a missing driver’s side window pane, bad radiator, stock 7MGE engine, and a half decent blue cloth interior. Supposedly, the guy said it ran great. I saw that the oil was super low, one tiny droplet on the bottom of the dipstick. Radiator was bad, as he said. Missing battery.
I still want this sports car.
What do you think this guy would ask for this car? It has upwards of 120,000 miles on it. No inspection, no title. I’m hoping it doesn’t run because I think I could get it cheaper that way. He’s trying to sell his business, so maybe he’d drop it for low. Would 500 dollars be reasonable? I mean, I guess it seems low, but I’ve seen much nicer Turbo/Manual versions go for around 1500 online. There are no other cheap sports cars that I want anymore. I have become infatuated with this one.
I am young, stupid and blind. I have a budget of less than 500 dollars. Any response on problems to recognize to make it cost less would be appreciated. Thanks for reading.
I’m also really anxious for this summer because my friend is going to let me drop a V6 or V8 into his ’85 Chevette. I just can’t wait.
500 isn't too bad for that, but with that low oil it could rod knock easily, and the N/A's aren't much in the way of sports cars these days. Stock 4 cylinders have similiar power now
On top of that, no title is bad. I've seen the expenses pile up for trying to get a new one.
w/a battery, radiator, title, registration, etc... I dunno, your budget will be blown outta the water.
Now, which is the 4th generation mustang? Is that the SN95 - 93-98 (could be horribly wrong on the years), or the "New Edge" 99-04.
The SN95's w/the V6 knocked out about the same power as my bone stock camry V6. In a race we stayed straight side by side. A Mk3 N/A would do the same thing, MAYBE gain on 'em a bit.
The New Edges raised the base HP on the v6 to over 200hp making them out of range for an N/A 7m.
Nevermind the GT's. They were always outta the N/A 7M range.
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1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, 486hp, 494tq.
[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/rsw_sig_stupidTN.jpg[/img]
Who came up with this 500px wide BS?
Well this would kind of be an eye pleaser project until I gathered enough gold dubloons... I could put in a 7MGTE (T for turbo) later, supposedly. I know it wouldn't be all that easy, but supposing I had the funds and the know-how. Besides, you don't know what it's like with my poop-colored Corona. If anyone has like unlimited carfax reports, could they pop in this number (JT2MA70J5K0110666) for me? I'd appreciate it. I might blow the 20 bucks to see the reports, but then again, nope.
**edit- about the battery, my friend has some connections and I can get a nice Interstate battery for free. The radiator I could put in myself, and I saw some on Ebay for 100ish dolla bills. About the oil, maybe it's just been sitting really long. (Doubt it, probably a leak.) I still want it cuz it looks nicer than my Corona. Plus, I dont have to beat these mustangs off the line, just on the highway when I'm pulling 90. Unfortunately, my Corona speedometer tops out at 85MPH.
**2nd edit - Plus, with me driving, that automatically adds like 157HP. Duh, why would you not know that?
Last edited by JoeDirtMcD3; 04-04-2005 at 09:29 PM.
Wait, I just read some more about this "rod-knock" of which you speak. Do you think I should go down to the lot and put some oil in this Supra? Maybe just to try to prevent the mechanic from fooking it up on Wednesday?
Last edited by JoeDirtMcD3; 04-04-2005 at 09:56 PM.
I would say $500 if he provides a title and it runs. I paid $1000 for mine at a junk yard, but it ran and wasn't smashed. Now that I think of it I don't think running is an issue. With that kind of milage, and the fact that its been sitting I doubt if the motor has much life left in it. Especially if you run it hard. Mine had 115,000 on the ODO and the motor lasted about 2 weeks. I drove it for a week and a half with no problems and when I took it to the redline for the first time siezed an exaust valve. Bye Bye motor. If he ran that engin with low oil the damage has already been done. Offer him $100 as is and then use the savings tward a 7MGTE they can be had for less than $800.
My dad just told me not to buy it if there is no title. I guess it could be stolen, or maybe the dude who dropped it there couldn't afford to pay the repairs and maybe just left it. My dad said it would be pain in the ass to get a title for it, and that his brother once bought a Beetle without a title. 2 months later the long arm of the law stretched to his house and took away the car. There went his money. So what do you think? Avoid cars with no title? Find out why there is no title? Try to find whoever has the title? Buy it without a title and try to get one? Wow this is kind of suck.
well well well. ok this is the break down. Theses cars have a couple major manufactor defects. One the HG (or head gasket) Two the cars need to be babied or they will throw a rod or stick a valve or the timing belt will break and BAM! everything is gone. Dude it might not be worth the money to get this and blow it up in lie two days after u decided to race a 20k+ mustang. common man if u want the power u want to make those stangs look like they are compesating for some thing? Save and get supra turbo. i have a 87 turbo targa top with 83k on the clock. i payed 5thousand for it. but its flawless. Inside and out.
Off topic: u want i quick little CHEAP! car go with the 323 GTX mazda. I used to have one and it was almost as fast as my supra and had half the power. Not to mention go to this web site. RallyClassified.com
Money is not a problem, until I get the car road worthy with inspection and insurance!!! AHHH! Oh well, it's just something I wouldn't mind paying 100 dollars to drive for like two weeks. I always have my van if I break the Supra. Plus, this chance could pass me up if I don't pounce on it quickly. I need a car to work on this summer, so why not one that has a lot of potential for modification.... like swapping in a 7MGTE. Oh and again, does anyone have unlmited carfax reports for free? The VIN is above.
MkIII Driver:
1) A STUCK VALVE? When have you seen a stuck valve on a 7M? I've NEVER seen one. EVER. Not even lurking around supramania or supraforums. If you've actually seen one, it's not a common issue.
2) Broken Timing belt? See above. If you don't do your regular maintenance you can expect this on any car. The 7m's are not just 'randomly prone' to breaking timing belts.
3) Rod Knock is caused the same way as any other motor, too little oil/the wrong thickness/etc. The 7M is just much worse to run low on oil. If you watch your oil level and make sure you're runinng the proper fluids, this isn't much of a worry.
JoeDirt,
If the bearings are gone, adding oil now will do you no good. The question is how hard it's been romped on with no oil. Also, if it's not running (see: Bad Radiator, No Battery) How can you tell that it doesn't have rod knock already and he didn't just pull the battery to prevent you from finding out. In short, it's bad to take a sellers word on a car/motor. I wouldn't pay a cent until I was able to drive the car.
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1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, 486hp, 494tq.
[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/rsw_sig_stupidTN.jpg[/img]
Who came up with this 500px wide BS?
Well Jeeves, I said I was going back Wednesday so he could start it up for me. If it runs then I guess I know I could take it for a ride. Is thid rod-knock of which you speak quite noticeable? He said he would run it for me. The other possibility is a Nissan 300ZX Turbo. Are those as shitty as I've heard?
Rod knock is a distinctive ticking coming from the side of the motor. If you can get a nice section of metal rod (or a long section of 3/8" socket extensions works might nice as well) and place it up against the block (work it down the passenger side of the motor and hold it against the block) and listen (put your ear on the other end. Be careful, do not poke your eardrum) to the other end. It's a metal on metal sound and will get worse with high RPMs and calms down at lower RPMs. In the beginning it can be very faint.
The 300ZX depends on the year. I've never heard of too many wiring issues on the newer models (300ZX Twin Turbo's, or N/A's) but they're a royal pain in the ass to work on. The enigne bay is absolutely packed. If you're looking at a generation back 300ZX (No turbo model was offered) then I don't know of too many issues with them.
If you're talking about this guy [Not Stock]:
Then they are very fast and fun cars. Working on their engine bay is a pain, but out of the box they're on par with a Mk4 Supra.
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1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, 486hp, 494tq.
[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/rsw_sig_stupidTN.jpg[/img]
Who came up with this 500px wide BS?
I was talkin about an 80s 300ZX. Maybe 86, but not sure yet. I don't really want that car, but I'd consider letting my friend get it for his chevette swap. It sounds like turbocharged engines (rather new to me because I've only played with superchargers) have a lot of potential so his Chevette might soon be nissan powered.
I'll post some pictures of the Supra tomorrow when I go to look at it tomorrow, then you can caution me about anything important to watch for, visual issues. If I could get this car for 100 dollars, then I'd at least have it as a parts car for any future late 80s Supra (or 85 chevette).
**Edit - I broke down and spent some of my dubloons on the carfax report. Not Actual Mileage Title reported on this Supra. The last odometer reading before that title was issued was 190,000ish (6 months before NAM title). When this title was issued the new odometer read 94,700. The last report said 122,000ish, which might be what I saw on it the other day. So that's 190k + (122k-94.7k) = 217k+ miles. Well that's lame, next thing to do is find out if it runs. Then, call DMV and find out how hard a title would be to get.
Last edited by JoeDirtMcD3; 04-05-2005 at 09:16 PM.
MkIII Driver:
1) A STUCK VALVE? When have you seen a stuck valve on a 7M? I've NEVER seen one. EVER. Not even lurking around supramania or supraforums. If you've actually seen one, it's not a common issue.
I'm not sure, but I think I mentioned that is what happened to my engine. Let me think....yep it was an exaust valve in CLY #5. Stuck, smacked the piston, bent, toasted head, holed piston.
That's not a stuck valve. You broke something else. The 7M motor is a non-interference motor. That means that with the valves open, the pistons can come all the way up and they won't touch. So, how did you break a valve?
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1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, 486hp, 494tq.
[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/rsw_sig_stupidTN.jpg[/img]
Who came up with this 500px wide BS?
jeeves look at it this way i wasnt saying that it is something that happens all the time ok. but first yes timing belts break, and yes valves can stick. Maybe not on a well maintained car but on a $100 car possibly. And last im a 5 year veteran mechanical engineer, what does that mean you ask???? I have seen it all! So saying that 7m's dont do this and dont do that is just unsupported. I love tha 7m motors but i have seen them in just about every condition and they vary lots. with that said i inform you that im only 18 years of age. as young as i am i have been doing this for some years now. NDE instruments was my father and my company at age 12 buddy. thermal scans of the indy cars and even the f1 seies that came to canada that year. Ive been doing this long enough to know what is ignorant. Im not attacking you jeeves but as well informed as you are you need to understand that differences between my car and yours and joedirts and ..........'s there all different and act different they are like people, are you going to say that you know all the behaviors of a certain person...? I think not. JEEVES YOU A GOOD MAN TO BE GIVING SO MUCH FEEDBACK BUT THINK OF THIS. TRY TO KEEP YOU OBVIOUSLY ILL-TEMERED THOUGHS ON LOCK AND MAKE PEOPLE FEEL INFORMED NOT STUPID WHEN THEY ARE WRONG.
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