ok...on Friday I lost revs while driving home & thought I snapped the timing belt. I had it towed to the repair shop - thank God for AAA. The shop specializes in Toyotas & had 3 MK3 Supras being worked on at the time - a good sign. Today I was told I didn't snap the timing belt but actually found out the cam seals & cam sprokets weren't properly installed by the last person working on the car which inturn destroyed the cams. I was quoted $150 for used cams & sprockets + time & labor & gaskets to fix this problem..total $750. I figured since I'm having all this done why not do the head gasket while I'm at it & save the hassle & expense later. I was quoted another $150 for the gasket, installed. My question is...do I need to have the head machined before having it reinstalled with the new head gasket? There's a reputable machine shop that sells complete heads, ready to bolt in for $450 minus sprockets. Would I be better off with a complete head replacement? If I reuse the stock head what happens if it's not machined before a new head gasket is installed? Also, should I replace the head bolts? If so, what do you recommend? If I replace the head bolts with ARP head studs, can these be installed with the engine in the car? Should I also install new valve seals along with the new cam seals if reusing the stock head? I'm hearing that the head should be torqued down to 72lb-ft, is this correct? Factory specs say 55lb-ft. I've read on the forum to use only an OEM head gasket, is this right? I'm having the parts ordered as we speak & work is being done this week so I need help ASAP.
OK...
You need the head checked if you are going to use an OEM gasket, only if you plan on using a Metal headgasket will you need the head machined. If you are going metal headgasket, remember, the block needs machining as well. you should definately replace the stock headbolts...never reuse them, and i would suggest ARP headbolts, they replace the stock ones w/o any modification, and you don't need to pull the motor.
Agreed. A close inspection of the block should be done to ensure the new gasket will seat, and the head in my opinion should always go for a resurface regardless of the gasket chosen. The 55ft-lb has been proven wrong, and is accepted as the primary reason we blow the gaskets up in the first place.
If the whole motor is not going to be machined, forget the metal gasket.
OK...
You need the head checked if you are going to use an OEM gasket, only if you plan on using a Metal headgasket will you need the head machined. If you are going metal headgasket, remember, the block needs machining as well. you should definately replace the stock headbolts...never reuse them, and i would suggest ARP headbolts, they replace the stock ones w/o any modification, and you don't need to pull the motor.
I'd have the head machined regardless if going OEM.
what is the benefit of using studs over bolts? Price difference, are studs harder to install? And hoe\w does the head get damaged??
Studs apply their pressure from the heat side, and push down. Bolts apply their pressure from the block side, and pull down. The end result really is the same though.
edit: Re-Reading this thread, I want to know how he was getting a reputable Mk3 shop to replace a head gasket for $150 installed. A Toyota new head gasket is near that price alone.
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1988 Mk3 Turbo Targa - 17.5psi, 486hp, 494tq.
[img]http://www.**********s.com/supra/rsw_sig_stupidTN.jpg[/img]
Who came up with this 500px wide BS?
edit: Re-Reading this thread, I want to know how he was getting a reputable Mk3 shop to replace a head gasket for $150 installed. A Toyota new head gasket is near that price alone.
No kidding. Charge parts at cost, free labour? ha. You've have to be directly related to the person for them to do that
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