If only it was that easy. It's all about the PREPWORK before you slap that new gasket in. And, as Razo said, the torque settings... take your 7M to a Toyota dealer and the schmos will torque it down too little again. Not a dealer job.
Hell, with the PROPER prep beforehand, you could even get away with an OEM gasket. You're best off with this route only with a 7M-GE or if you intend not to increase boost on the GTE...
yea, me too. i know i'll need a great idea of the engine build, because the gasket is down in there.
maybe a link?
proper way to prep/install a gasket on a 86-89 supra?
or maybe a little me vague on the topic, but if you can get a related topic to me, thad be wonderful!
The proper way to prep requires the expertise and equipment of a high end machine shop and the engine to come out. If you have anyone that builds quality race engines locally, you're looking to spend your money there. Cooter's garage is far from well enough equipped. The surface finish is somewhere approaching "mirror". The RA value, should they have a profilometer, is going to be in the 10-15 range. This is not something you can do at home easily, though occasionally someone will invest in a lapping tool to do it over the course of several days, with a risk that they will screw up the block anyhow and need to pull it all out to do it again.
The proper way to prep requires the expertise and equipment of a high end machine shop and the engine to come out. If you have anyone that builds quality race engines locally, you're looking to spend your money there. Cooter's garage is far from well enough equipped. The surface finish is somewhere approaching "mirror". The RA value, should they have a profilometer, is going to be in the 10-15 range. This is not something you can do at home easily, though occasionally someone will invest in a lapping tool to do it over the course of several days, with a risk that they will screw up the block anyhow and need to pull it all out to do it again.
i think the whole idea that it must be down to a mirror finish is just BS, the whole purpose of the gasket is to make a tight fit even if the surfaces arent exact. sure the more exact you can get the better but dont see the need to spend a fortune on it then stick a gasket over it.
i think the whole idea that it must be down to a mirror finish is just BS, the whole purpose of the gasket is to make a tight fit even if the surfaces arent exact. sure the more exact you can get the better but dont see the need to spend a fortune on it then stick a gasket over it.
but to each their own i guess.
It's imperative if you go with a metal head gasket - which is much less forgiving (if at all) in terms of surface imperfections.
You could technically get away with a *clean* block, unmachined, with just a shaved head, with an OEM (and NOT metal!) gasket. Only if you're NA. Or running ONLY stock boost. Even then, it's kinda sketchy.
so i will have to have someone do this for me, why "racing" guys?
i would think a good tune up shop would be able to do it.
and i think someone said something about clling a toyota dealer and have them fix that problem on the mk3? is that right? how much do you think?
how often does this need to be done?
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WTB a 87-89 toyota supra!
but i need more info
Are you really sure that a tuneup shop can do a top-end motor rebuild correctly? I don't.
With the 7M, your best insurance is either doing it yourself armed with the correct knowledge - if not, send it to someone who has had EXPERIENCE with the 7M and KNOWS how to do things PROPERLY to ensure the gasket doesn't blow again.
Even the Toyota dealer won't do it proper. There's no guarantee that they'll machine the surface of anything at all. And they'll still likely torque it down to 55lb-ft. You need more torque than that. 75-80 is the accepted number (esp. with ARP bolts/studs), but I've seen people saying as low as 68 (likely with factory head bolts, I reckon).
cant they just adjust the torque bolts or modify it so that it wont do it again?
and why the hell would you produce a mk3, thrid generation of that car and still not fix or stop production and fix something that will cost people thousands of dollars in the longs run, potentally killing the mk3 series supras when they hit the market?
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WTB a 87-89 toyota supra!
but i need more info
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