stage 1 mod - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

ace_on_17 · 12-10-2005, 10:16 AM

Hai guys...im new in here.Just needs some advice on stage 1 mod for my caldina gt-four..
Honestly,i dont know where to post this,but since MR2 have 3sgte engine as well,so i decided to post it here...

NESW20 · 12-10-2005, 12:50 PM

there aren't exactly "stages" of mods, really. a good start would be maintenance. fluids, filters, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, check timing, clean the throttle body, etc...

after that, decide on what your goals are for the car. my suggestion would be a manual boost controller, boost gauge, brake pads, and maybe an exhaust. that's pretty general stuff that most people benefit from in almost any kind of racing or driving.

-Mike

Strat42586 · 12-10-2005, 01:52 PM

Gotta go with that advice. A tune up is always most important to make sure everything is running up to par before you try and upgade it. After that, for turbo cars, my first suggestive mods are downpipe, exhaust, brake pads, boost controller/gauge, intake and tuning. Takes care of basic flow and tuning needs. And the brake pads help you stop the extra power.

ace_on_17 · 12-10-2005, 06:53 PM

Thanks guy..sorry i forgot to mention.Actually,ive done some basic mod such as trust exhaust,trust blow off valve,turbosmart boost controller,hks gauge and apexi filter..
Btw,what do u exactly mean by tuning? Is it tuning the ECU? and what brake pad are u all recommended? After this basic mod..ive dyno the car and come up with another 50-60 net hp from it..

NESW20 · 12-10-2005, 08:44 PM

i have Porterfield R4-S brake pads on my MR2, and they work quite well. i also have Goodridge braided stainless steel brake lines, and Motul RBF600 brake fluid. i highly recommend this setup, as it is relatively inexpensive (compared to big brake kits) and works very well.

-Mike

erioshi · 12-10-2005, 09:06 PM

A quick note about Motul RBF600. It very hydroscopic (like to suck moisture out of the air) and can become corrosive to the brake system once it becomes "wet". If you're going to use it bleed your system frequently.

I've been using ATE blut flud for a couple of years now - while the wet and dry boiling points are lower then Motul RBF600, the ATE fluid had the lowest hydroscopic properties of any performance brake fluid I could find. That means fewer brake system flushes and a lower tendency to introduce brake system corosion.

YMMV

Strat42586 · 12-11-2005, 01:09 AM

Heard nothing but good things about Porterfield RS-4 pads. Getting a set myself within the next month. And as for tuning, for less power something like an APEXi S-AFC will work fine. If you got big plans, look for a stand alone.

NESW20 · 12-11-2005, 01:30 PM

i would advise against an SAFC. it alters the signal from the VAF sensor to the ECU to adjust a/f ratio. the only way to SAFELY tune with an SAFC is with an AFPR, wideband o2, and the SAFC.

when you remove fuel (lean the mixture), the ECU also advances ignition timing because it sees "less load". the combination of the leaner mixture (higher combustion temperatures) and the advanced ignition timing (higher combustion temperatures) leads to detonation and preignition, which will destroy your internals very quickly.

the best way to tune with the SAFC is to lower base fuel pressure, and then ADD fuel to richen the mixture with the SAFC. this does not cause the ignition timing to be advanced to a dangerous level.

-Mike

Strat42586 · 12-11-2005, 02:17 PM

I agree completely. I'm against 'tricking' the ECU. But bottom line is it is a suitable tuning device for low power levels. I've used and tuned them before. Took me longer than an hour on a dynojet to get acceptable AFRs. But I must admit I am much happier with my ROM tune than ever before with black boxes.