I been trying to get me a new head gaskets because I am rebuilding the whole engine from down up. I need some advice in these gaskets. There are two versions , there is the TRD 0.8mm metal gaskets, vs TRD 0.5mm metal gaskets. I know one is thiner than the other but isn't thicker = more compression? My engine is a '87 4AGE.
well, you'll probably want the thinner of the two in order to raise the static compression, but don't expect anything from it. the thicker will be less compression. you'll gain a bit from other black-bag tuning on the 4AG-E. you'll want ARP head studs for your build. port matching would be a good thing. make sure to keep your shims and buckets in the correct positions (mark them with a sharpie ex: intake #'s 1-8 and exhaust #'s 1-8) after re-installing them, always re-check your tolerances. DO NOT BEAD BLAST YOUR HEAD. just soak it in carbuer-traitor acid instead. do your valve seals and have the guides inspected. and then a good hand-lapping always compliments getting your valves reconditioned. now back to the ARP studs...make sure to tighten them in several passes and definately use the ARP lube. i like to wait about 15 minutes between each pass with the torque wrench. OH!!! you may also have to cut/grind the end of your dizzy gear in order to clear the ARP stud in the front corner of the exhaust side of the head. be careful and actually use a feeler gauge to check the amount of clearance you have before final installation.
wow, thanks for the reply...well this project I will do it in school sometime next week or so...hopefully the teacher gives me some advice, so that I don't over do the cylinders. About porting the exhaust side...I will do that. Those arp head studs you say, I don't think i will be putting any turbo on this engine. but I will on the other 4AG-E engine I have once I rebuild that other one. I will need help getting high performance cams, gears, clutch, etc....my plan is to race it at a local track somewhere to show off corvettes and porsche. I know the 4AG-E has much potential.
i would seriously consider getting the ARP studs...you can re-use them over and over again. after a couple of engine builds or whatever, the factory head bolts will lose their ability to retain the proper torque on the head. one doesn't only use them because a turbo or supercharger is in-use. i will tell you that pretty much stay away from porting anything on a 4AG-E head. it's not really worth it. Yamaha did plenty of work with Toyota in the development of the 4AG-E and the 3SGT-E alike. don't get too crazy with the cylinder bore. make sure to check with Toyota for the available ring sets. i believe that they have .030 ring sets. oh! if you get the valves done, a 3 angle is just fine along with hand-lapping the valves. 5 angles are the buzz word, but only show a slight improvement down low in the power band with forced induction.
as for racing...if you're thinking of anything more than dragracing, it's not necessarily the car and the performance parts that you put into it. at best, if your car is 100%, then it only accounts for 30% of the overall equation. 70% is driver. so, get your car healthy and get some seat time. you'll net much greater results! good luck!
heh, thanks I'll take the studs into consideration. Those studs are ment for holding the block with the heads then...oh cool I didn't know yamaha had anything to do with this engine. Do you happen to know how the "VORTEX" works? I do, and I just wanted to ask you a question about it. I would assume that even tho my car doesn't have "vortex" on the head....that it DOES come with that superior compression of air. But what if it doesn't? I would have to go in and do it myself on the intake side to achieve higher compression.
Parts I need so far:
metal gasket 0.5mm
piston rings
water pump gasket
oil pan gasket
Intake side gasket?
Tranny:
Hi-Perf clutch + flywheel
ARP head studs = $111.43 ,,,, is that a good price?
am I missing anything? Those gaskets can really hide in there...
i don't use any oil seals (with exception for the valve cover gaskets...fel-pro have been fine for 3 years and counting) that are not Toyota. i also only use Toyota FIPG (sorta like rtv, but uber better). if you use a different flywheel, you'd better balance your bottom end. truthfully, an OEM clutch and all components are more than adequate for daily driving and a mix of autocrossing or even HPDE events. you'll want a timing belt and maybe a couple of the hoses which are impossible to reach when the engine is in the car. you may want to get a Toyota gasket set. you can shop online for the best prices if you like.
i'm not sure what you are trying to infer with the vortex dealie. i also don't know what you mean by going into the intake side to achieve higher compression. raising the compression would entail going to a higher compression piston. with that you'll want some serious ignition/fuel tuning.
yes, more air into the cylinder = more bang of course. vortex is a special way to keep air flowing inside the cylinder not allowing it to bounce back from the piston and pressuring against the air coming IN the cylinder....hopefully thats clear enough...yea i've read on summitracing, i might get mine from there too. so you dont believe a high-tech clutch would help ? what do you mean about balancing my bottom end? - did you get the valve cover gaskets from summitracing too? did you buy the whole arp stud kit? # ARP-203-4203 ?
the ARP's are 4AG-E specific.
ok, so the vortex...maybe fluid dynamics is a more exact science you may be looking at.
no, more air in the cylinder does NOT equal bigger bang. more air means further away from stoichiometric as far as your air/fuel ratio is concerned. bigger bang so to speak would be ignition as far as the 4 strokes are concerned. now, low octane, poor thermal control, and pre or post ignition would create a bigger bang...
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