Hi everybody. I used to be a Honda head and recently joined the MR2 family with a 91 n/a MR2. I was wondering is it normal for my mr2 to feel like its going nowhere after 5k rpms? Whereas on hondas the power is around that area?
i would try a tune up( plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor ) it might cure your problem. O ya and dont buy crappy plugs like autolights or anything. spend the extra money for some higher quality stuff.
the engine you have its a 5sfe (2.2) and that engine makes about 130 hp at 5400, and the torque about 140, but the torque comes early and mantains it very good on the power band, you can do somee mod's but it wouldnt take you very far, i had a celica and i put some mods like:headers, 2 1/2 exausth without catalistyc (sorry for my english) and an 3 inch intake,i was bery disapointed for the gains and i sold the car and got the mr-2 with the 3sgte, thats the engine you need but if you dont have the cash for a new engine, you could swap a 3sgte head, i heard thats a good mod for the 5sfe.
note:wen i ran my 5sfe, going OVER 6k rpm's just makes you slower
it's very normal for the 5SFE to run out of breath after 5000rpms. it's completely different from the high revs that you're used to, but it can still be very entertaining, just not as much in a straight line.
go to your local autocross and have a blast in your new toy. congrats on your purchase and welcome to this site. also check out www.mr2oc.com
-Mike
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1991 MR2 Turbo 2.1L stroker
2006 Tacoma D-cab 4x4 Auto TRD Off Road
i would try a tune up( plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor ) it might cure your problem. O ya and dont buy crappy plugs like autolights or anything. spend the extra money for some higher quality stuff.
Don't need expensive plugs. NGK 6097 is what is recommended most and they're only $2 each.
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"Our Lady of Blessed Acceleration, don't fail us now!" -Elwood Blues
but if you dont have the cash for a new engine, you could swap a 3sgte head, i heard thats a good mod for the 5sfe.
wen i ran my 5sfe, going OVER 6k rpm's just makes you slower
Using the 3SGTE head on a 5S block can be confusing, because some 5S blocks have the cooling passages to support the head, but some don't. If your particular block doesn't have the cooling passages, then you'd have to spend time to drill some in. On the MR2OC board, I found that many newer 5S's do NOT have the correct passages.
If you want more performance out of the 5S, you absolutely have to grind the cams. It'll pull to redline afterwards. The cams are very, very conservative.
Be careful with switching to a synthetic oil in a high milage vehicle. If you've got old gaskets you might find out the hard way that the dino oil is what was keeping them inflated. If you want to use a slipperier (is that a word?) oil a blend might be a good transitional move.
ill be doing a tune up asap. what viscosity oil should i use for my car? the sticker on my window from an oil change place says 20w-50, should i just stick with that?
Golly no! That is some crazy heavy oil. That wouldn't necessarily be a problem, but the oil pump in the earlier 5sfes is a known weak point. That heavy of an oil could overwhelm the pump and fail to reach critical parts of the motor resulting in overheating and breakdown.
The very heaviest I would put in a 5sfe motor is 10W30 dino.
i put the movil extended performance that says its good for about 15000 miles and iss a 15-50 full syntetich, is it agood choice to put a 15-50? i put 15 instead of 10 because of the miles, this way i can keep the compresion up, is it a good choice?
Use 0W-40. It'll keep your engine alive longer, because it flows to critical parts faster (even when freezing out) and is thick enough to protect the engine in high ambient temperatures. Always keep an eye on your oil level!! If you run low on oil, your engine is toast. It's taken many 5SFEs.
If you absolutely must use 20W-50, only use it during the summer when temperatures are above 85 degrees. Engine performance and gas mileage will suffer a bit, but you'll also use a little less oil.
From my experience, 5W-30 and 10W-30 seem to dissipate the fastest in the 5S. 10W-40 oil use is somewhere in between 10W-30 and 20W-50. Typically, I went through a quart every 1000 miles. 20W-50 was around 2000 miles.
I'm still calculating 0W-40, but it seems similar to 10W-30 @ 1000 miles per quart (750 miles for 5W-30). Keep in mind, my valve stem seals are leaking REALLY bad. Your engine will vary in consumption.
Also, I don't normally recommend overfilling the oil pan, but the 5S crank uses about a quart of oil just by itself. This leaves about 3 quarts for everything else. I fill to 5 quarts, the crank takes 1, so there's 4 left for everything else. Now, if I corner hard, the oil pickup still has oil to suck in. You can damage your engine by overfilling too much, because the crank will sit in the oil and whip the oil into a bubbley brew. This makes the oil harder to circulate and can cause engine wear. So, be wary, do this at your own risk.
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