hi i was thinking about getting an aw11 but im having second thoughts about the engine bay space, ive been hearing plenty of facts on how long it took to change the alternator, and oil filters due to the tight spaces. can i see some engine bay shots if anyone here has any?
as for oil changes.... they're usually easier, actually..... the aw11's seem to have more space between the filter and the firewall compared to an ae92's filter and radiator (if both cars have the same options then everything else is the same... IE a/c compressor is in the way.... however no PS pump like the ae92's)
as for alternators..... in an aw11 they can be a bit trickier than an ae92.... my FIRST aw11 alternator that i did i couldn't find an easy way to get the alt out, so i pulled some suspenion parts.... no big deal, only took an extra 15 min or so..... but if you look more carefully there's easier ways to get them out
but again, as for space they're about the same as an ae92..... ae92's seem to have a lot more enginebay space because the room in FRONT of the radiator is huge.....
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
naw!... alt and oil filters are easy to replace. definitely not a reason to decide against the AW. i sourced oil cooler sandwich plates from a AE92(if i remember correctly) and it put the oil filter closer to the block and a little further away from the exhaust manifold.
when i changed my alt i just removed the intake tube and pulled it ou through there. changinging the oild i use a screw driver to punch a hole and start the turn then spin it out by hand I'll have to see how hard it is to get out this time with just putting it on with my hand. The most fun thing to replace on these as far as bolt on parts goes is the starter but even thats not bad after reading how others have done it on here.
changinging the oild i use a screw driver to punch a hole and start the turn then spin it out by hand I'll have to see how hard it is to get out this time with just putting it on with my hand. The most fun thing to replace on these as far as bolt on parts goes is the starter but even thats not bad after reading how others have done it on here.
i wouldn't reccommend using something that goes through the oil filter.... if they're tight enough, you WILL tear the filter in 1/2.... which makes the job that much tougher
for the person who was asking specifically is how i was replying.... seeing how i have (more) experience with both (see my sig....)
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
Alternator is peachy easy. Mine was hard because the car had been abused, but it's less than a day's project if nothing has been molested. Pull the coolant tank (come out by hand, no tools) undo a bolt. Slip a belt off. Get under the car (ramps, jacks W/STANDS, however you can) undo another bolt. Undo some wires, slip it out, Drop in the new one and reverse the process. The last guy did an improper install on mine. Yay. About two days straight labor to fix. Now it's done.
There are only two kinds of service on an MR2:
a) "God that was easy!"
b) "Why the hell did I ever get involved with this stupid little car?!?!?!"
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The only time I "Asked someone about their Toyota", I ended up owning it.
yeah it does widen closer to the ground but its also got everything that comes into the bay really organized to like all the fuel brake coolent lines enter in the same area as with the wireing save for the ecu in the trunks wires
hmm my ae92 has a lot of space problems like where the alt. is. eww its so cramped! and putting back the dipstick is a pain in the ass! lol its so frustrating! but ill eventually buy an aw11 in a few months, hmm my neighbor might sell his... ill see
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