clutch installation problem - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

MarylandMr2 · 08-27-2006, 09:38 PM

hey guys need your helpful opinion again, i just finished up about an hour ago in replacing my clutch and flywheel with a stage 3+, and lightened flywheel. after hours of pain and agony(and replacing the slave and master cylinder) i got it together and now my clutch will not disengage when the clutch is fully bleed and pressed down. it grinds and will not go in any gear. the BGB is no help at all in troubleshooting. anybody got any ideas?

***toyomoho*** · 08-27-2006, 11:56 PM

Does the slave cylinder rod and clutch fork actually move when the clutch pedal is pushed down? If no, the problem is with the master/slave setup. If yes, it could be inside the clutch housing. Did you install the clutch plate with the proper side facing the flywheel?

MarylandMr2 · 08-28-2006, 12:30 AM

yes it was labeled forward side, so i assumed that was flywheel side, both the slave and fork are moving. is there a adjustment i can make to the fork?

***toyomoho*** · 08-28-2006, 03:50 AM

I don’t have the exact specs for your car, however. The clutch plate sounds like it was installed correctly. The clutch plate springs should be facing (closer to) the pressure plate then the flywheel. It is a common mistake to reverse the disk. Did you install all the parts such as throw out bearing? Is the clutch fork attached to the pivot on the housing? It needs to be attached to act as a lever.

Never seen a fork with adjustments. The adjustment is usually on the rod coming out of the slave cylinder. You will see a treaded rod with a nut if so equipped. Not all car Toyota models have one.

How much does the fork move? If you look at the slave cylinder, you can get an idea of how far the piston can travel.

Check clutch pedal height. Is the clutch pedal about the same height about the firewall as the brake pedal? How much free play does the clutch pedal have? About ½ inch is normal. This is adjustable by the linkage (rod and clevis) going to the master cylinder. Look under dash at the top of pedal and see what connects to it.

With the slave cylinder is removed. You should be able to push the fork back and forth, and feel the throw out bearing hit the clutch fingers. Can you feel this? Make sure the fork is attached to the pivot on the housing. If the setup has an adjustment rod, the slack between the throw bearing engaging and disengaging should be pretty small, say 1/10 of an inch.

You need to make sure the slave piston (and rod) is traveling the right amount of distance. That this travel is being used to push the throw out bearing against the clutch pressure plate and not just empty space. On some cars you can actually hear the pressure plate springs flex when engaging the clutch pedal with the engine off.

MarylandMr2 · 08-28-2006, 07:27 PM

what is the normal deflection of a slave cylinder? I think i might have a faulty slave cylinder due to the fact when i use a bar to push on the slave it will go in gear and catch.

***toyomoho*** · 08-29-2006, 01:13 AM

The travel is not that large, my guess about 1 inch. Most of this travel should be in actually engaging the pressure plate.

weaselt777 · 08-30-2006, 10:30 PM

I just installed a new master and slave, but I'm getting no pressure built up at all. I think my problem is with the release fork, but not sure. The release fork has a lot of play - very loose. I've taken the slave off again and it seems to be working fine. Any help would be much appreciated.

tHa kNiGHt FaLL · 08-31-2006, 03:38 PM

release fork will have excess play if nothing is holding it tight... it could have popped off the pivot ball...

keep in mind you installed a stage III clutch setup... the master cylinder might not be strong enough to release a clutch that strong.

i kno a friend had that problem... not in an mr2... but regardless

QuadCamSix · 09-09-2006, 03:43 PM

The disk could be in backwards. I have done that before

We have run nearly a 3000 lb pressure plate in an MR2 before, the clutch pedal takes lots of work to move but it does release the clutch. So, the system IS up to the task.

Check in this order:
System bled propperly
Slave cyl is working well and both Orings are intact and not leeking. Was your clutch fluid black when you bled it? If so the slave and or master could be bad. A bad ring in the master could cause the system not to hold pressure. Have someone hold the pedal down and see of the fork retracts even when the pedal is held to the floor. If it does move on its own when the pedal is held, then the master cyl is bad.

Pull tranny off and check that you put the disk in propperly. Also check that the pivot point is attached and the throw out is not binding. I had one that was sticking and the clutch would not release.

***toyomoho*** · 09-10-2006, 12:35 AM

Weaselt777 has another MR2 thread on this problem. If the slave/fork moves, could be air still in the system. Bleed, bleed, bleed! Also the treads below this page might help.

swifty562 · 11-05-2006, 10:21 PM

i had the same problem with it not engauging... so its the master cyl.
i have a stage 3 spec clutch... and i put the push rod towards the end of the tip.. felt like it was going to come off... but the point is when i fully press it all the way.. it was enough for it to change gear... just "ENOUGH" and thats not good. cuz when i release the slightest bit of the clutch it wont go into gear... there was like 2/10 of an inch of free play and the car would stutter like maddddddd.