slave cylinder on an MK2 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

semi-charmed · 10-09-2006, 04:45 PM

hey guys...does anyone know how to check if the slave cylinder is bad on an MK2?...my car refuses to shift gears (i don't think the clutch is releasing) and following the shop manual i first bled the air out of clutch line and that didn't change anything....the next step is to replace the clutch (or slave?) cylinder...but i don't wanna go through the trouble of replacing it if that's not the problem...thanks in advance for the help

OEMonkey · 10-10-2006, 01:22 AM

Have someone look at the slave cyl if it moves when you depress on the clutch pedal.

With the engine off, you should have no problem shifting gears. If you still can't shift gears w/ the engine off, then it's not the clutch hydraulic system. Try checking the shifter cables. If that's ok, then check for worn clutch. Always check the easy, simple things first.

***toyomoho*** · 10-10-2006, 01:51 AM

If the slave does work, make sure the clutch release fork is moving its full length. Reduced travel can cause this shifting problem.

tHa kNiGHt FaLL · 10-10-2006, 02:32 AM

yea... if the car doesn't shift when the car is off then you have a trans issue.

if it shifts but not when the car is on you have a clutch issue. you need to have someone press the clutch in all the way and you have to watch the release fork, you need to watch it and see if it moves. if it does... you have an internal clutch issue. if it doesn't you have to remove the slave assembly. leave the hydraulic lines connected. then press the pedal again to see if the piston moves. if not you got a clutch master and or slave problem. if it does the fork is frozen and you have an internal clutch issue.

semi-charmed · 10-10-2006, 10:24 AM

thanks for the help guys...

the car shifts fine when the motor is off...and from what i can see under the car, the release fork is moving...whether or not it's moving as far as it should be, i can't tell...is there a certain distance or something it should be travelling?...is it difficult to replace a slave cylinder if that's the case?...also, the fluid in the resevoir is pretty black and shitty looking, even after I bled the system and topped it up with fresh dot 3...is that normal?

i don't know if this helps...but sometimes, and only somtimes, it does manage to get in gear with the motor on, but I can feel the clutch grabbing even with the clutch all the way down...and if i leave it in gear with my foot on the clutch and the brake the car will eventually stall out...any ideas? i really, REALLY hope its not an internal clutch issue...i had the clutch changed in february, but with used parts and a mechanic i didn't really trust...

phreakgirl · 10-10-2006, 11:01 AM

I don't know anything about this, but don't ever use a mechanic you don't trust. I don't even use mechanics, but I waited 3 months for my bodyshop of choice to be cleared out enough to do my insurance claim, and I'd have waited a year if it called for it!

Good luck.

ninja5423 · 10-10-2006, 04:05 PM

the same thing happen to my sw20, but your pedal just stay down when you push it? or retract? mine stayed down but ne way i took it to a mechanic and they replaced the slave and master cylinder and it runs fine. it costed me like 280 total for everything

semi-charmed · 10-10-2006, 06:50 PM

yeah the thing was this guy was my buddy...and i decided to give him a shot...but anyway...ninja, my pedal does retract...but it feels slightly more spongy than usual...

OEMonkey · 10-11-2006, 03:23 AM

With the car parked on a slight incline, like a driveway, put it in 1st. push the clutch pedal all the way down and hold it while releasing the parking brake. The vehicle should roll down since the clutch is disengaged w/ your foot on the pedal. If it doesn't roll down, then that means the clutch remains engaged in first gear even w/ your foot on the pedal. If there's no incline available for this test, just have a buddy push the car either forward or back.

From what you've described, it could either be bad master/slave, broken pressure plate diaphragm and/or worn clutch assuming the fork is good.

gjz30075 · 10-11-2006, 11:32 AM

Make sure the master cylinder pushrod hole and the pin that holds it to the pedal aren't worn out. The hole could be wallowed out and the pin worn down to the point where much of the pedal motion is wasted trying to take up the slack of the worn pieces.

I think the motion at the fork where the slave pushrod contacts it should be about 1".

Doesn't sound like you've bled it enough if it feels mushy.

semi-charmed · 10-11-2006, 02:12 PM

OEM...i've tried that and the car does not roll back, it actually lurches forward a little bit...

i will check the pushrod connection tonight...let me make sure i'm bleeding it right...

i jacked the back of the car up and opened the clutch fluid resevoir in the front...i then got someone to pump the clutch about 60 or so times and then hold their foot down on the pedal...then, i opened up the bleeder screw and let the fluid squirt out...i'm sure i saw some bubbles...before the pedal was let up again, i tightened the screw and checked the resevoir...i repeated this about 10 times maybe, while continually topping up the fluid resevoir...

is this the correct way of bleeding?

RideMr2 · 10-12-2006, 08:26 PM

http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanic...me2/clutch.htm

meoggi · 10-14-2006, 02:37 PM

clutch is a little more spungy because there is proabably one little air bubble that you didnt get out. as far as the shifting goes well id have to say take a look at the throw-out bearing and the fork that it sits on it could possibly be bent or binded and the throw out could have went bad. sadly youd have to drop motor and trans. i been there