what vaccum line would be the best to tee into to get a good boost reading from and does anyone have a suggestion for a brand of gauge over another? btw its an 89 s/c
Not too sure where to tee off on that model year, however I would definately say not to buy a cheap guage...... I bought the car with this Autometer guage, and I would never reccomend it to anyone... it is a real cheap peice of garbage... I would reccommend a greddy, hks, or other high quality namebrand... Expect to pay over 100.00 for a good one!!!
Not too sure where to tee off on that model year, however I would definately say not to buy a cheap guage...... I bought the car with this Autometer guage, and I would never reccomend it to anyone... it is a real cheap peice of garbage... I would reccommend a greddy, hks, or other high quality namebrand... Expect to pay over 100.00 for a good one!!!
there is absouletly nothing the matter with an autometer meter guage unless you droped it and put it out of calibration, said brand name gauge are NO beter whatsoever. that is an uninformed post. brand association is ignorant, not one of those companies is known because of their gauges...
The GReddy & HKS are going to be overly expensive for fancy designs and light displays.
If you want a quality gauge, that is affordable, and it "neat" in appearance and resembles the factory dash, I would look at the $26 VDO gauges on summitracing.com.
Those are the gauges I run.
For those worried about quality and/or brand recognition, VDO's are standard on new Porsches AFAIK.
I was unaware that all guages were alike...I have had 2 Autometer guages, and both have been waaaay off...I even tried replacing the guage, undropped, and installed by a professional. After running the car on a dyno, it was proof enough that the guage which always reads running rich was way off, as the car was running the way it should. I have never owned a greddy or an HKS however I have known people who have had them, and stand by them. All I know is that I have had very poor luck with Autometer and would never suggest the company to anybody. Hence the post... So if it is misinformed, my apologies, however I do not believe it to be a misinformed post as it is my opinion, and one that I know is true.
However Hyde's idea comes in alot cheaper than my previous post, and if he has had great luch with it, then I would say thats the best informed post yet. Cheap, easy, looks nice, and does what u want it to correctly
One side of my guage says lean, the middle says stoich, and to the right says rich. My ....... OMFG ..... I feel so stupid, I was talking about air/fuel guage... man I take back all that I said now, autometer makes boost guages well somewhat decently, but their air to fuel guages are garbage. lol, I guess I got confused on the topic after self thought
Just because your A/F gauge reads rich, does not mean it is garbage.
In fact, it probable means it is accurate.
A dyno uses a wideband O2 sensor to measure rich/lean.
Your Autometer gauge is reading your factory narrowband O2 sensor.
That being said, since your are reading a narrow band, it can not be used for tuning as it can't read measurements above cruise and idle. All the factory O2 sensor does is send a worthwhile signal while cruising and idling. As long as your gauge is fluctuating at those times, it is most likely accurate AND your O2 sensor is working.
It should go full rich under any amount of "real" throttle.
It will most likely go lean under no throttle and/or throttle lift.
The A/F gauges people use to read off of their stock O2 sensors are good for only one thing: making sure the O2 sensor is working.
In my opinion, it is not a very valuable gauge to have.
As you have learned, it does not give you very useful information,
but that does not mean that it is not working accurately.
Well thats information I didn't know... Now I am thinking that I should probably buy a different guage... as this one is just annoying. Maybe a temp guage
i have a boost gauge i might be willing to sell for $150.....
it's an autometer... but you don't run a vacuum/boost line through the car to the gauge.... it's an electronic gauge with it's own map sensor that you install in the engine bay.....
was going to put into my 87 supercharged, but never got around to it before i sold it... it would be VERY handy on my turbo 85 i'm building.... but it would help fund what i don't have as of now (ie, piping, intercooler, bov/wastegate....etc)... i can use my MS to check vacuum levels
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
In my opinion, it is not a very valuable gauge to have. As you have learned, it does not give you very useful information, but that does not mean that it is not working accurately.
i don't see how montioring air to fuel ratio thru a gauge makes a difference either...
only way it will change is if you tamper w/ emission controls or emission controls fails...
air fuel is pre set by the manufacturer... stoichiometric is optimized A/F ratio usually 14.7 to 1. So to constantly watch this all day means wha...? if it doesn't read stoich your generally going to notice because its either going to be too right or too lean which both will affect performance
The guage came with my car, and as I have found out here, it is a useless guage... right now it will be an onlooker wow thing... I could care less about the stupid dang thing...
yea i kno this kid who spend like 80 on the gauge another 40 for the sending unit and he got the wrong sending unit and the sending unit doesn't even operate until like 650 degrees which mean pretty much only time it works is under heavy acceleration... its retarded...
but if its already there... might as well leave it...
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