Cylinder Head Bolts - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

***MR2Jedi*** · 01-01-2007, 05:14 PM

Do the camshafts absolutely have to be removed to extract head bolts? The bolts look accessible to me.
And what type of tool is an "SST" ?(SST 09043-38100) I guess thats a part #..
Is that a T drive(star drive) ?

tHa kNiGHt FaLL · 01-01-2007, 08:12 PM

i dunno.... SST is a toyota specific tool.......

your not going to need an SST anything...

a good general toolbox set up w/ a torque wrench is all you'll need.

and

i've never seen a set up where you could get all the bolts out w/o removing the cams...

but like i said i never seen it, doesn't mean it isn't possible. but me personally i'd removed them anyways... cause your going to have to try to lock them in place so they don't move and that could prove to be more difficult then marking them and removing them.

***MR2Jedi*** · 01-01-2007, 08:27 PM

The head of the bolts are female with a "star drive" type look. It will require that at the least. The heads of the bolts are to the side of the cams and look totally accessible. I can prop up the timing belt so it doesn't come off the crank gear and lose it's place.

tHa kNiGHt FaLL · 01-02-2007, 03:04 AM

torx bits...? thats just stupid if you ask me... anything torx or allen headed strips so easily...

the SST tool must be some kind of tool w/ a T45 or T55 on it. if you wanna purchase the tool or get a torx set... i'd prolly look into the SST cause if you get a cheap torx set it will fuck up the bolt and you'll never get it out. i got a 6 piece set for like 140.00. i'm sure the SST will be cheaper and will work w/o any issues.

so be careful... very careful not to strip it out. i'm surprised they are all on the inside like that and not one under the cams or towards the outside.

as of timing... make sure you mark the belt where it lines up w/ each cam... do the same for the crank pulley.

doing it this way you need to make sure the cams or crank doesn't move at all.

***MR2Jedi*** · 01-02-2007, 05:54 AM

I couldn't believe it when I saw that.
Looks like a large Torx bit, now that you mention it. But they torque down @ only 36 ft/lbs ! I would have thought it would be twice that much. Oh well..
Yeah, lots of stuff still to remove. Both in and ex manifolds, downpipe, turbo, fuel rail,, water inlet, timing cover, water bypass.....Hate it... but gotta getter done

OEMonkey · 01-07-2007, 11:44 AM

They have to be torqued more than that I believe. It'll specify a torque setting and then an additional 90 degree turn. Very nerve wracking when you're doing that additional 90. Always feels like it's gonna break but it doesn't. So, you might wanna check on that torque spec just to be doubly sure. And make sure you go the correct fastening sequence.

***MR2Jedi*** · 01-07-2007, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OEMonkey

They have to be torqued more than that I believe. It'll specify a torque setting and then an additional 90 degree turn. Very nerve wracking when you're doing that additional 90. Always feels like it's gonna break but it doesn't. So, you might wanna check on that torque spec just to be doubly sure. And make sure you go the correct fastening sequence.

yeah, I saw the additional 90 degree turn. Kinda strange...But I will follow protocols

91MR2quickNA · 01-10-2007, 05:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR2BAD

yeah, I saw the additional 90 degree turn. Kinda strange...But I will follow protocols

I think it's because they're torque to yield bolts and do not have to be retorqued. I had to do the 90 deg turn on all of my 1MZ 12 point bolts. It felt horrible, but they were brand new. The MLS head gasket secreted some sealant stuff. Those things are weird, but definitely better over the paper/metal lined gaskets. The grey gunk on those things pisses me off too.