my 1991 toyota mr2 has a 5sfe(2.2). it has been iding low and it smoking black smoke. its carbon. its flooding up. i dont know what to do. I just changed put nology hotwires and ngk spark plugs on it. i replaced the rotor button and distributor cap also. does anyone know what the problem is?
u should have purchased NGK products.... they are cheap, and do the trick.. u only need high performance wires when u get up a little higher in the HP. Seeing as it sounds like u only started having this problem after u changed the plugs wires cap and rotor, I would suggest looking your firing order again..... U may have placed the wrong wires on the wrong plugs, which in turn, might give a bad ignition problem, which means u would burn too fast or too slow., or u could have ordered these parts for the wrong model year.
well that was actually a line from the 3sgte power primer, so I figured it would be correct.
here is the statement to a t from that article.
To help keep the cylinders cooler under high boost and insure that the stock ignition keeps the spark going strong, you should replace the stock plugs with a set of NGK 6097 copper spark plugs. These are one step colder than the stock plugs to help keep detonation in check. You should gap them at 0.028", which is a little less than stock to make it a little bit easier on the ignition system to keep the spark going strong and reliably even under higher boost pressure. These will need to be replaced every 5K miles or so. Note that you do not need to make any other changes to the stock ignition system until you reach a higher power point. It is a myth that you can make more power with aftermarket ignition components on the 3S-GTE. All that the ignition can do is lose power if it is weak or not properly functioning. The stock ignition and components, except for the spark plugs is adequate to 17-18psi in good working condition.
The last line explains why I said what I said. Since I have been corrected on this forum b4 many times, I decided that unless I had a viable source of information, or unless I was definately correct on my quote, I would keep the old trap shut.
However Now that I read it again, I happened to miss the (except for the spark plugs) part... teehee... Well at least now u understand, sorry for the misconstrued info, but it was an easy mistake to make, seeing as I haven't read the article in 5 months.
Note that you do not need to make any other changes to the stock ignition system until you reach a higher power point.
He does mention "ignition system," but that does not necessarily mean the wires.
I am running an upgraded coil and MSD ignition box, but I am still using the stock wires
Well I heard MSD is a reliable company to go with... what HP should u replace the ignition components other than the wires..... And to the topic starter... At this point I have no clue...
the car was running fine about a month ago. my idle jumps and than it drops down to 500 rpms. im pretty sure thats vaccum lines. the car seems likes its missing. its flooding up and jumping in low gear.any ideas?
first put a drop of oil on each of the exhaust runners... and run the car... the runner that burns the oil off the slowest or not at all is missing... you need to get a inline spark plug checker... and check every plug for spark... look to see that they all have the same brightness of spark... then you need to work your way back to the wires... then module... and lastly the coil... has anyone every messed w/ your iginition timing... when was the distributor last changed...? seems obvious you have an ignition issue
it could mean something but i couldn't be sure until i knew the timing was right.... both cam timing and ignition timing...
i mean me personally i'd lab scope the car and be able to spot the problem almost immediately... but w/o that kinda tool you need to step by step it...
when did it start...? did you get the car like this... normally there is a point of something that happened where you noticed this... did you just start the car one day and it ran like this ever since...?
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