If you are looking for a cage for a specific racing series, make sure you check out the exact rules as each organization expects different designs for roll over protection.
I have no experience with SafeDrives's roll bars/cages,
but the products and services I have used of theirs has been great.
I'm well aware that Hux Racing has the ability to make quality parts,
but the quality of the products does not justify how they treat their customers.
I'd never use them for anything, nor would I suggest anyone else to them.
ToyotaTech, sorry your SafeDrives bar did not meet your expectations.
Autopower seems to be the easiest, most cost affective solution.
It took me just a few hours to install mine in Jekyl and I had never done one before.
well, deno didn't have a problem. maybe autopower is easy, but i also know that if the original poster wants something custom done, Hux is the way to go.
no, i didn't say anything about purchasing anything from safedraives, but why would anyone purchase ANYTHING from them when their (safedrives) customer service [ha! what a joke!] is well below dismal. isn't that why you recommend against Hux? because their customer service supposedly isn't good? well, safedrives not only doesn't make their product, their customer service [again: HA-HA!] just plain sucks!
The original poster never mentioned wanting "custom" work done.
I've dealt with Hux Racing once and their customer service sucked & the actual procudt was not good,
so from my experience their products AND their service are not worth dealing with them for.
As for Deno's roll bar ... what good is it?
It does not meet NHRA or SCCA standards.
I'd be curious as to what he paid as I am sure it was more than the
$600 I paid for my custom 6-point chromoloy bar in Hyde tha meets both SCCA & NHRA rules.
the original poster also didn't mention NOT wanting something custom. whether he does or not, the point still remains.
i've dealt with safedrives twice and they sucked BOTH times. so, what's your point?
the good is, he ordered a product and got what he wanted. the only problem he had was that he forgot to mention some clearance needed for the race seats. now whether he is going to change the bar or not now is another question. seems that the bar is doing well (or was last time i saw him).
a friend of mine built a custom roll-bar in his 89 t-top.... made the car stiffer than any of mine have ever felt (and he's on cut springs) including my hardtops......
his is a 'mild' bar, but uses very heavy duty metal (I think the raw metal was close to 300lbs)...
I believe his has passed for SCCA events and he's getting it tech'ed for an upcoming rally right now....
don't really have any photos of it.... but it's welded into the car behind the seats.... has a mid-bar that comes alone the seat to the front of the seat, goes up and along the roof with bars that cross and bars that come off it to the rear firewall......
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
Of course, if you are cutting springs, you apparently aren't concerned with propoer performance anyway.
where i agree for the most part, there are instances where you have to. TRD, USA instructed me to cut-off a coil for certain applications. they instructed me to cut a half coil from one of their springs. even in 1989-1990, i was VERY concerned with performance.
... nothing like adding 8% or more weight to the car.
Of course, if you are cutting springs, you apparently aren't concerned with propoer performance anyway.
yeah, well... he auto-x's the car any chance he can get..... and his car generally is about a second (or more) faster than any other mr2 on the same course and the engine is stock.....
he built the cage to protect him in case he goes off the road during a rally.....
and FYI, he bought it with cut springs..... i have mr2's currently with eibachs & kyb's and another with cheap 300/400 coilovers & stock struts.... just sold an mr2 with intrax & new struts (brand unknown), and also have an ae92 with ST springs and kyb gr2 struts..... his CUT springs feel comparable to all of the aforementioned cars (except the coilover mr2... it's a bit bouncy on bad roads).... He is very performance oriented, but why change something on the car that is working 100% in his favor..... (and also, my first mr2 I cut the springs.... stock struts and cut springs... car handled pretty damn well)
I used to be a naysayer of cutting springs.... but the fact of the matter is that for road course and auto-x events and DD there isn't enough strain to cause big problems (and yes, I understand fully the ideas of progressive springs, non progressive springs, cold wound, not-cold wound, etc)
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
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