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Old 05-10-2007, 08:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Timing was set to 30, set to 10 now runs like poo

I have a blown knock sensor, and my car is very sluggish down low. At around 3500 rpm it picks up and feels normal. My buddy helped me check my timing today, and it was set around 30 advanced degrees. (Mark on crank was about 3-4" to the left of the 10 mark). We set it back to the 10 mark (doing it correctly by jumping TE1 and E1) and took the car for a ride and now it feels like a 20 second 1/4 mile car. When it hits 3500rpm it boost, but doesnt pull hardly at all. Is this normal for the knock sensor when its blown? Was the 30 advanced degree compensating for the blown knock sesnor? I dont know whats going on! Help!!
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Old 05-10-2007, 09:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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30 degrees advance on a turbo? I'm surprised nothing else blew up in the process. The ECU might be in safe mode (i.e. limp mode). Low boost and very low timing. Replace the knock sensor and see what happens.
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Old 05-10-2007, 09:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It is hitting 16psi, just feels like something is holding it back. Then it feels like it lets go, and then I should start going faster, but i dont. I can hear the turbo spooling like crazy though.
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Old 05-10-2007, 09:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Huh, weird. Maybe some of the more experienced 3SGTE guys can chime in.
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Old 05-10-2007, 09:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yeah it is weird, and when the timing was set the way it was before, it was fine. Just ran very rich, and blew black smoke out the xhaust under boost, and poped a little at idle. I only got 18-19 MPG. It ran fine before, even with the blown knock sensor. Now since timing is back where it should be, it feels like driving a pinto. lol
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Old 05-11-2007, 05:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If your knock sensor is blown, you are not going to have good performance.
The ECU is saving your butt by putting your into safe/limp mode.
Your ECU will retard timing (regardless of where you have it set) and it will be sending extra fuel (hence your poor gas mileage).

If you want your car to run healthy again, you are going to need to replace the knock sensor which is a very easy job, but the sensor is not cheap.

As 91MR2quickNA said, I hope you only blew the sensor. You might want to do a compression check to make sure you did not pop a ring land.

If you keep pushing your car in it's current state, you are asking for trouble.

Good luck,
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Old 05-11-2007, 12:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You shouldn't even be running your 2 with a bad knock sensor. it may sound like a minor part, but it's essential for safe engine operation..replace it before you do major damage.
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Old 05-11-2007, 01:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Will the toyota dealerships have these?

I had a compression test done, and it was 185-185-185-185

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Old 05-11-2007, 02:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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i am almost 99.9999999 percent sure that your doing it wrong...

did you use a timing light...?

cause the ECU will compensate for a blown knock sensor but in the exact opposite way you think. because the sole purpose of the knock sensor is to retard timing in the event of pinging or excessive engine vibration when it goes bad the ECU compensates by fully retarding your timing since there is no longer a sensor to prevent your motor from detonating.

the reason i believe your reading it wrong is cause i'm also 99.999999999999 percent sure that older toyotas max out timing advance 10 degree beyond specs... and last time i checked timing specs were about 7 or 8 degrees making it impossible to reach 30 unless your timing belt skip a few teeth. which is not likely but always possible.
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Old 05-11-2007, 02:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by problemmr2
Will the toyota dealerships have these?

I had a compression test done, and it was 185-185-185-185

yes, and torque specs are critical to proper operation of a knock sensor. how tight or loose pretty much sets the sensitivity of the it.
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Old 05-11-2007, 06:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tHa kNiGHt FaLL
i am almost 99.9999999 percent sure that your doing it wrong...

did you use a timing light...?

cause the ECU will compensate for a blown knock sensor but in the exact opposite way you think. because the sole purpose of the knock sensor is to retard timing in the event of pinging or excessive engine vibration when it goes bad the ECU compensates by fully retarding your timing since there is no longer a sensor to prevent your motor from detonating.

the reason i believe your reading it wrong is cause i'm also 99.999999999999 percent sure that older toyotas max out timing advance 10 degree beyond specs... and last time i checked timing specs were about 7 or 8 degrees making it impossible to reach 30 unless your timing belt skip a few teeth. which is not likely but always possible.
Yes a timing light was used, on the #1 spark plug wire. 1st i jumped TE1 and E1, and started the car. Let it warm up, and check the timing with the light. The crank pully mark was about 3-4" to the left of the 10 degree mark while checking with the light. I figured it to be about 30 degrees. I turned the distributor untill it was at the 10 mark, and tightened it down. I could tell right away that the idle was much better, but driveablility was horrible. I shut the car off, and took out the jumper wire from TE1 and E1. I can barely even drive the car the way it is now. Im not driving it untill the sensor is fixed. I think it did it with the knock sensor installed and working properly, which I think is why the timing was advanced that far. It ran fine with the timing the way it was, but ran very rich, and poped a bit at idle because of the extra fuel, im guessing. With the timing at 10 the idle is about perfect, but driving the car takes about 20 seconds to reach 60mph. The more i step on the gas pedle it seems the slower i go, and the more the turbo spools. If im just cruising and not boosting it seems like its ok, untill i give it a little more gas, and then you can feel it holding back. I dont know, and hope the new sensor works this time.
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Anyone have any clue? I cant figure this out..... It seems nobody here in dirty-jerz knows anything about these. If I had a honda it would be no problem.
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Old 05-12-2007, 10:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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ALWAYS start by fixing a known problem.

Which means fix the knock sensor and go from there.
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