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Old 05-20-2007, 06:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Pulled cylinder head

I don't know if you guys remember my post a few months back about thinking I blew my headgasket.?
Well, I was correct. I'm happy to say, cylinder walls are smooth... No evidence of cracks/holes in piston tops. Looks OK.
My question is--do any of you have some helpfull hints as to easy safe ways to clean up the mess in cylinder chambers and top of the block before I install the new headgasket?
And any other prep before I put her back together? Of course, I will do a compression check after I put the head back on and install a new timing belt(the old one has small cracks all over it) and align cams and crank.
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Old 05-21-2007, 12:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I put rag pieces in cylinders and all holes before scraping and wire brushing the deck; solvent clean the deck; bring pistons to TDC; cotton thread/twine or vaseline/grease around piston-cylinder wall gap before cleaning piston top; use a cloth/paper filter on a nozzle attachment on a wet vac to suction trash from piston top and piston-cylinder wall gaps.

I retorque the head bolts occasionally until they hold tight since the head gasket can compress after heating up/cooling down.

I also replace belts while I'm there and maybe hoses, vacuum lines, thermostat and water pump, etc.

I find my two MR2s are very reliable as daily drivers because I take the time and care to do work right and to listen, look, monitor the condition regularly (preventive maintenance versus reactive maintenance). Sounds like you are doing it all right.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
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Old 05-21-2007, 12:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Also, I put timing belts in without expecting to do it again for 60,000 miles or more so I strongly recommend replacing the tensioner spring and pulley/bearing!
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Old 05-21-2007, 12:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WT Morgan
Also, I put timing belts in without expecting to do it again for 60,000 miles or more so I strongly recommend replacing the tensioner spring and pulley/bearing!
Yeah, I was already planning on replacing the timing belt. Upon removing the timing belt cover, I found tiny cracks along the outside of it. Figured I'd replace while I have verything apart. Thanks!
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Old 05-21-2007, 04:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i wouldn't use solvent...

something oil based and non corrosive. should change your oil afterwards too.
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tHa kNiGHt FaLL
i wouldn't use solvent...

something oil based and non corrosive. should change your oil afterwards too.
I drained all the oil when it first happened. then filled cylinders with trans fuid to keep rings from locking up till I got to it. Thanks Drew
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Old 05-23-2007, 12:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Tansmission fluid will dissolve carbon deposits, so I would start up with the old plugs and run them for a few miles until the transmission fluid and carbon are burned out (can ruin plugs) . Then change to new plugs. Or you could clean it all up before disassembly if it all comes off without combustion temperature heat. I would definately change the idler pulley and spring when changing the timing belt.
Sounds like you are changing the timing belt at a good time. Failures usually start with small cracks at the base of a tooth (can see from the edge) and when the crack spreads the tooth shears off. Within a second the rest of the teeth shear off because the missing tooth makes the pulley slip and rip the next tooth, then the next and it just strips the belt (it is all made from one fabric sheet tooth face layer).
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:49 AM   #8 (permalink)
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^ OK, on the plugs. But it's a shame to throw them away after that. They're platinum plugs and they've only got 5 or 6 K on them.
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Old 05-23-2007, 06:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Use a blade from a box cutter. With blade straight up and down use it as a scraper. Once down to bare metal, clean up with a solvent. Some folks abraid the surfaces to aid in gripping the gasket. Might use a copper spray or even high temp paint to aid in sealing the gasket. Check to see if Toyota or the head gasket manufactuerer calls out sealants or specified prep work. Be sure to torque the head bolts as specified by the manual.
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Old 05-23-2007, 11:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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^ well, of course I will torque head bolts to spec....I'm not that much of a novice... was just seeing if anyone had some tips they had for a good, safe, clean up...I have a flat edge blade I can use for your suggestion.Thanks for the tips...
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