High Beams Not Working - MK1

[dbtolman]

First Post here. I've searched extensively (here, and google), and can't find what I need to fix this.

The car:
89 MR2, 1.6NA, 5SP. 220,000 miles on original engine/transmission. 100% stock, except for custom wheels.

The issue:
About a week ago, my high beams died. Haven't changed anything wiring related, and haven't made any mods. It's 100% stock, and wasn't torn up when I got it, so I just keep the fuel in it, and drive...

The headlights pop-up and go down properly, and the low beams work. However, when I switch the high beams on, the headlights die completely until I switch back to low. When I try to use the flash-to-pass option with the headlights already on, they just turn off when I've got the switch pulled forward. If the headlights are down, and I pull the switch for flash-to-pass, the headlights pop-up, but don't turn on. OF COURSE, it does this just as I'm trying to get a new inspection sticker! DOH!

On the fuse block under the front hood, there is the relay that sits closest to the spare tire. If I turn the lights off, and back on before they close I can hear that relay open and close when I turn the lights on and off, but it doesn't change at all when I turn on the high-beams.

What I've done so far:
1.) Removed covers and tested voltage at the headlight plugs. I get 12 volts to the low beam terminal until I turn on high-beams, and nothing to the high beam terminal. When I change the switch to high-beam, I get no voltage to either contact. The wiring looks to be intact, and there are no other strange electrical issues up there.

2.) Pulled steering wheel, inspected combo switch, and wiring leading up to it. All features of the switch work, except for the high beam selection. Wiring all looks good. When you pull the switch forward, the lights pop-up, but they aren't lit. It looks like the cruise control and blinker/high beam switch are all part of one big assembly, and the cruise control also works. The fact that all of the things attached to the steering column work makes me think I've got good ground, etc.

Thoughts, Questions, Etc:
1.) I'm contemplating a toggle switch with 10g wiring inside the car, placed where the fog light switch normally is (I don't have fog lights), and using it to turn the high-beam side of the light on/off, but given the 100% stock nature of the car, I'd rather not do this. However, if I do, is there a danger in turning the high beam on, and leaving the low beam on at the same time?

2.) Is there another relay I'm not seeing that controls the low beam to high beam change?

3.) Anyone else seen this issue? How did you fix?

Thanks for reading! Hopefully this is something that I can get help with...

[deuce93t]

I actually have the same problem and i have a Gen 2 93 so its nothing odd and out there.

Dont run another toggle switch to turn on and off your high beams because if that gets left one your battery will be dead the next time you go to start it.

What i have come to a conclusion on is that the bulb in the actual head light has two different filiments on for the low and one for the high beams and the filiment for the high beams has burned out. so the only alternative to fixing the problem is replacing the actual headlight itself beuase it is all one peice (atleast for the gen2) that is why you are still getting your voltage reads but no light production.

That is what i am going to do once i get annoyed enough by it to actually change it i dont use my high beams enough to worry and dont need the inspections. Good luck bro.

[MR2Jedi]

Replace the headlight. they're only about $7.00

[dbtolman]

Thanks for the replies!

I have tested the bulbs, and they are ok. I'm not getting voltage at the light socket when high beams are on, but do when lows are...

What else could it be? I think the switch is ok, since all the other functions work.

Is there a relay that controls the low to high change? A fuse for the high beam circuit thatch just don't see? I am lost...

If I toggle switch it, I will pull the power from the low beam circuit so the lights have to be on for the toggle to work... BUT - I really hate to do that...

Thanks again for the help!

[MR2Jedi]

Maybe a break in the wire? Go further back from the headlight plug and see if there's any current there...

[dbtolman]

Well, DUH! Ima idjit...

Thanks, man. I guess I just didn't think about that because of the heat outside when I was doing this. No room under cover, so I'm having to work on this one in the sun.

Anyone know where the two high beam wires come together? Since it's both lights, I'd suspect it's got to be at that junction probably... The wiring diagrams refer to a J/B #3, so I assume there's a junction block that ties all this together somewhere, just can't find it...

[MR2Jedi]

Shit, i don't blame ya. I know it,s hot down there. here too.. I'd be lookin' for shade. Good luck, I hope you find the short. I know it's driving you crazy. !!!

[dbtolman]

Yea, it is really annoying, especially since they died right as the car was being inspected... I failed smog, and safety. Smog was easy: Plugs and a new o2 sensor, and seafoam through the next tank. These headlights are killing me though!

[MR2Jedi]

I hate trying to track down an electrical problem ...it can be so frustrating...Where in TX are you?

[dbtolman]

Dallas

[speedfreak_5]

Hey everyone. Dealt with a *very* similar problem myself.
Other issues I had that I think are related to it:
-Turn signal clicker going crazy
-radio randomly turns off and on
-radio turns on when key is out of ignition and lights were turned on

Junction Block #3 is up under the driver's side dash to the left of the clutch. Unscrew the two nuts holding it then slide it off the studs. My problem was a ground wire had burnt up basically allowing things to work except for the brights when things were connected (i was running around having to jiggle the wire when lights went off. not the safest thing...). Damn I wish I had the wiring diagram with me now. I'll see if I can post some images later today of where I had issues.

The cure for me:

Got one of the plastic wire splicer T-things and connected another ground wire to a specific wire. No problems since. You may not have the same problem, but check there. Oh and save your back and remove the driver's seat. Playing contortionist is not fun.

Later.