Timing belt - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

***MR2Jedi*** · 10-09-2007, 11:50 PM

Anyone have a picture of the Timing Belt part of the engine with the cover off ?

Piddy · 10-10-2007, 01:10 PM

I think there are some layout type pics in the BGB.... I'll try and hunt them down....

***MR2Jedi*** · 10-10-2007, 01:15 PM

I looked at those. You can't see the detail-even magnified....

Piddy · 10-10-2007, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR2BAD

I looked at those. You can't see the detail-even magnified....

If I go to the shop today I'll snap a pic of mine for ya.

***MR2Jedi*** · 10-10-2007, 10:29 PM

Thanks Russ !

tHa kNiGHt FaLL · 10-13-2007, 09:45 AM

your still messing w/ that head...?

Qslim · 10-13-2007, 09:59 AM

You didn't post your MY, but I'm guessing 91. Hope this helps.

***MR2Jedi*** · 10-13-2007, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tHa kNiGHt FaLL

your still messing w/ that head...?

I have the engine fully assembled and running, but the timing belt is being chewed up.

***MR2Jedi*** · 10-13-2007, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Qslim

You didn't post your MY, but I'm guessing 91. Hope this helps.

Oh yeah, it's a '91 Thanks... But i have seen that pic but it doesn't have the detail and show everything.. I have found a good detailed pic to help me. I was concerned about one part, but from the pic I have, it's on correctly. So the problem is elsewhere.

tHa kNiGHt FaLL · 10-13-2007, 06:16 PM

yea... setting the timing in a dual gear dual cam motor can be tricky sometimes.

WT Morgan · 10-14-2007, 08:30 PM

Did you replace the idler pulley? It can lock up, or it can be too loose and let the belt slip. If one tooth shears off the others always shear off, ususally within one revolution. If it ever jumps a tooth, before using it, check the base of the tooth from the side view and look REAL close for a crack. If there is even the smallest of a split in the tooth base (the rubber under the surface jacket), definately replace the belt.

I would check the idler bearing and the belt tension as the first possible problems.

***MR2Jedi*** · 10-14-2007, 09:02 PM

Pulled it apart today..Everything looked good-except for the belt. It was shaved on the inside of the belt to half it's normal width.I don't know why this happened .
Both idler pulleys are good. Turn freely. No play.Smooth surfaces. Belt guide on crankshaft was on correctly. Tensioner is damn strong. I put it in a vise, compressed the piston, put a grenade pin in it and reinstalled it. But I had some unexpected company show up (booty call). So I didn't finish. I prolly won't have time until Wednesday-Maybe.

WT Morgan · 10-15-2007, 12:50 PM

OK- So the belt is rubbing on the side. That's better than jumping a tooth. Two posibilities I can think of:

1) A pulley was not parallel to the others and that caused the belt to ride to the high edge. Check the inside edges of pulleys and see if one is real shiny or shows wear. If so check for the problem- make sure it is tight and there is nothing behind it that would keep it from being mounted flush. One of the idler pulley bolts could have been loose and allowed it to tilt, pushing it to the inside.

2) The belt could have a manufacture defect. I would keep it until you know. I would put the old belt back on just to see if it tracked good. Then put the worn one on to see if it tracks bad. Then put a new one on to confirm that it tracks true. This seems like a lot of work, but it will tell you if the problem is with the belt itself. It is mainly loosening the idler.
Belts are cord wound and if the cord/tension were not right in the manufacturing process the belt could track to one edge.

Mister O's MR2 · 10-20-2007, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MR2BAD

Pulled it apart today..Everything looked good-except for the belt. It was shaved on the inside of the belt to half it's normal width.I don't know why this happened .

For another possibility, see my post here:
chewed up timing belt problem????

Mister O's MR2 · 10-20-2007, 06:21 PM

For my recent timing belt change, I purchased a universal steering wheel puller for about $18 US.

I had to also purchase a couple of 8x1.25x65mm bolts to use with the puller.

Much cheaper than the Toyota special service tool specified in the shop manual.

The puller is from Lisle Corporation, model #45000. I bought it at a local auto parts store.

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_search...m?Search=45000

Now, I have the tool I need when I decide to replace the steering wheel on the car.