Ok, I finally got my mr2 turbo running well. Its a n/a with a 1993 JDM 3sgte installed. I want to get get a few more hp right now but dont have the funds for 20G or a bigger turbo. Here is what is done to my car...
Trunk mount intercooler
3" single exhaust
Walboro fuel pump
Stage 2 TRD clutch
Gutted CAT
MBC
ATS knock sensor
K&N instake
Say I have $200-$300 sitting here to spend, what should i do? Or is it wise to save up more for a turbo kit? I also installed a new TPS, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, ect. I was looking for maybe a cheaper mod to add a few rwhp but seems I have pretty much everything in the simple department. The car feels pretty good, and im looking to get about 260-270rwhp as of right now. Then when I feel like upgrading injectors, ecu, turbo which will be in the spring, I will be looking at 300-325rwhp. I thought i would be close to the 260-270rwhp mark, but I dont think im even close as a buddy of mine just put down 277rwhp on his 3rd gen and ran a 12.3 and his car pulls alot harder then mine does. Bu anyways..... Any ideas?
A boost controller to up the boost.
It's a great mod thats within the money you have to blow. You can unleash a few more lbs of boost that you will definately feel and appreciate. You can turn the boost up to 15-16psi. You will need to eliminate the fuel cut that kicks in at 12 psi.
I purchased a Greddy ProFec II electronic boost controller for what your willing to spend.
Why is that weird ? Most 2's stock are only putting out 10-12 psi. A boost controller would up that to 15 or 16 psi. A very noticeable improvement in power...
especially for the price.. I paid $280.00 for my EBC
I already have a boost controller installed. Thats what MBC was in my mods list. I went to that mrcontrols website and it seems i should get a fuel pressure regulator to lower my fuel pressure? Then go to the dyno to fine tune the FPR. I dont want a AFC or anything like that as i dont like piggyback systems.
Also I have a gutted CAT, will a downpipe be noticably different then the gutted CAT?
Last edited by problemmr2; 10-24-2007 at 04:43 AM.
Why is that weird ? Most 2's stock are only putting out 10-12 psi. A boost controller would up that to 15 or 16 psi. A very noticeable improvement in power...
especially for the price.. I paid $280.00 for my EBC
Trunk mount intercooler - TMIC on a CT26 would be horribly laggy... not to mention cooling overkill.
3" single exhaust - Okay I suppose.... assuming its not a muffler shop special.
Walboro fuel pump - Walbro fuel pump with no other fuel mods.... useless
Stage 2 TRD clutch - Okay.
Gutted CAT - Buy a downpipe for gods sake.... even a cheapy eBay pipe will do. I would replace it just so I wouldn't have to deal with the headache of the stock cat setup.
MBC - He's got ya covered on the boost controller part. EBC's are much nicer... but you really can't go wrong with a $30 death knob.
ATS knock sensor - I'm an OEM parts whore.... not a big fan of GM knock sensors. I realize that they are cheaper... but if you are blowing that many knock sensors... something is wrong.
K&N instake Fine by me.
Trunk mount intercooler - TMIC on a CT26 would be horribly laggy... not to mention cooling overkill.
3" single exhaust - Okay I suppose.... assuming its not a muffler shop special.
Walboro fuel pump - Walbro fuel pump with no other fuel mods.... useless
Stage 2 TRD clutch - Okay.
Gutted CAT - Buy a downpipe for gods sake.... even a cheapy eBay pipe will do. I would replace it just so I wouldn't have to deal with the headache of the stock cat setup.
MBC - He's got ya covered on the boost controller part. EBC's are much nicer... but you really can't go wrong with a $30 death knob.
ATS knock sensor - I'm an OEM parts whore.... not a big fan of GM knock sensors. I realize that they are cheaper... but if you are blowing that many knock sensors... something is wrong.
K&N instake Fine by me.
Trunk mount IC - I LOVE this thing. I had a aftermarket sidemount on the car when i got it, and the trunk mount made a big difference. I was reading up on Jekyl and hydes trunk mount, and he gained like 49rwhp over the GREDDY unit. I have no issues whatsoever, and think it may even spool quicker then when i had the greddy on. Trunk mount is BADAZZ!!!!
3" Exhaust - Was custom made stainless steel piping with magnaflow exhaust. Looks just like the greddy unit, and performs just as well maybe even better. I got 3" because I plan on 300+rwhp so why even bother with 2.5" if i will have to pull it off and replace with 3" within a year?
Walboro pump was installed when the 3sgte swap was done. I guess it was mandatory because the stock n/a pump could not keep up.
Gutted CAT - Whats so much of a headache about a stock gutted CAT? It was free, and took about 15 minutes. Beats $250 for a good downpipe if you ask me. But if it will give me gains over the stock gutted CAT, then im all for it. Everyone told me to just gut the CAT as its just as good.
MBC - I had 2 different EBC, a Apexi and a Greddy. I didnt like either, and had issues with them so went with the ol' faithfull MBC. Have not had a problem since and spools just as nice, and even saved money.
ATS knock sensor - Only $75 compared to $170 from toyota. Toyota knock sensors are alot more fragile and could even pop due to bad gas or a misfire. I dont need that with all the crap gas going around. Again.... I budget myself and saving $100 for a better sensor sounded better. Got here in 2 days after payment was sent.
K&N intake - I like it. Intakes on turbo cars dont do much anyways so it doesnt really matter. Its the filter quality you need to worry about, and K&N has a good rep. So went with them.
I think i made good choices on the mods so far. I want to make decent power so did the headache crap 1st. (clutch, pump, TMIC, ect.) Now all i really need is a good turbo kit, tuning, and im set.
Trunk mount IC - I LOVE this thing. I had a aftermarket sidemount on the car when i got it, and the trunk mount made a big difference. I was reading up on Jekyl and hydes trunk mount, and he gained like 49rwhp over the GREDDY unit. I have no issues whatsoever, and think it may even spool quicker then when i had the greddy on. Trunk mount is BADAZZ!!!!
Jeff is also pushing out ~600whp..... not 200. There is no way the longer piping and larger core of a TMIC would get your faster spool.... it's all in your head.
3" Exhaust - Was custom made stainless steel piping with magnaflow exhaust. Looks just like the greddy unit, and performs just as well maybe even better. I got 3" because I plan on 300+rwhp so why even bother with 2.5" if i will have to pull it off and replace with 3" within a year?
And you know this because you've dynoed your car against the Greddy unit??
Gutted CAT - Whats so much of a headache about a stock gutted CAT? It was free, and took about 15 minutes. Beats $250 for a good downpipe if you ask me. But if it will give me gains over the stock gutted CAT, then im all for it. Everyone told me to just gut the CAT as its just as good.
If you ever pull your turbo you will realize why. You will definitely have gains with a downpipe.... the upper turbo pipe is extremely restrictive.
MBC - I had 2 different EBC, a Apexi and a Greddy. I didnt like either, and had issues with them so went with the ol' faithfull MBC. Have not had a problem since and spools just as nice, and even saved money.
I've used both the Greddy Profec and the Apexi AVCR and loved them both.... especially the AVCR. Nothing wrong with an MBC if you aren't adjusting the boost a lot. I liked having the ability to switch from 10 to 18psi though.... makes a huge difference.
ATS knock sensor - Only $75 compared to $170 from toyota. Toyota knock sensors are alot more fragile and could even pop due to bad gas or a misfire. I dont need that with all the crap gas going around. Again.... I budget myself and saving $100 for a better sensor sounded better. Got here in 2 days after payment was sent.
I'd rather spend the extra $100 on a knock sensor than $5k on a new motor. If your car is properly tuned you shouldn't be blowing knock sensors.
The location of the gm sensor, compared to the oem sensor, is farther away fr the block. This would generate a lower amplitude signal causing the ecu to not retard timing as much as it would with the oem sensor. The stock ECU's programmed threshold for knock frequency is conservative, yes. But this is actually good for older, worn engines. If detonation frequency is bad enough to blow the stock ksensor, the problem is not w/ the sensor. So ya, Ishcoleobo's advice is good. Good stand alone tuners will profile normal knock frequency first by running the engine rich w/ conservative timing and then set threshold values just above that across the RPM band. There's good and bad to having the GM sensor, but I think the bad far out weighs the good.
I blew my knock sensor because i over revved my car. 1st time it did that. I figured ATS racing wouldnt sell a junky part. So got it...
I had aftermarket sidemounts and I like the trunk mount by far. If its done right, there are no problems with the ct26 or ct20b. Its sort of like a front mount intercooler, and had one on my GSX eclipse with stock turbo and gained 8rwhp from it by just swapping intercoolers. Air was cooler, and was able to raise my boost level another pound because of it. So total i probably gained 13-15rwhp but never dyno'd that car after raising the boost. I have pusher/puller fans, correct piping, and a shroud so it gets plenty of air. It boost fine when its 100 degrees here and does not heat soak.
save your money for a stand alone... you can throw all the parts in the world at it and it will never pull like your friends... unless you can "manage" hense engine management the performance.
I blew my knock sensor because i over revved my car. 1st time it did that. I figured ATS racing wouldnt sell a junky part. So got it...
I had aftermarket sidemounts and I like the trunk mount by far. If its done right, there are no problems with the ct26 or ct20b. Its sort of like a front mount intercooler, and had one on my GSX eclipse with stock turbo and gained 8rwhp from it by just swapping intercoolers. Air was cooler, and was able to raise my boost level another pound because of it. So total i probably gained 13-15rwhp but never dyno'd that car after raising the boost. I have pusher/puller fans, correct piping, and a shroud so it gets plenty of air. It boost fine when its 100 degrees here and does not heat soak.
there is a problem w/ the stock turbo and the trunk mount...
you have to consider the extra piping and the increased size of the intercooler... and the same turbo to push the air is going to create a lag...
its nice i agree... but i think they point they are pushing is your going in the wrong order. you start from the inside and work your way out.
lower compression so you can boost more... bigger more effecient turbo to push... nice intercooler to cool.... meet the fuel demands first... then match w/ ignition. then work your suspension and tire to hold the car down... and then brakes to stop it. when you jump around its all really for nothing...
Im thinking of going with the ATS 20G kit with the romtune, and all the good stuff. Im not opening this motor yet. I know plenty of people running reliable 300-400rwhp on stock internals. I just want 275rwhp for now.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Forum for every generation Toyota MR2. Including the AW11 and SW20.
Linear Mode
