I own a MK1.5 (1989 3SGTE powered MR2). And I tell you for the dollar for dollar the biggest gain in power you can get is to swap in a 3SGTE into the AW11 chassis. Going from 100hp to 250hp is no joke. With a power to weight ratio of 0.10 the MK1.5 has no problem outrunning alot of the most powerfull production cars out there (just shy of exotics). It can cost as little as $2800 if done with a donor car. And its not as hard of a swap as people make it out to be. The only thing you have to get over is welding engine mounts. But
speedsource has a jig for rent and sells the mounts to set you up.
Here is my guide to installing a 3SGTE into your AW11
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?...light=Tutorial
This is pretty much based on what I had to do with my swap. I wrote most of it down, so maybe this will help someone who is thinkin about doing the swap, answer some questions.
If anyone wants to add anything or if something is wrong with the list let me know.
The MK1.5 Swap Parts list (based off what I needed, list vary's from person to person)
1. MR2 Shell (complete body)
2. 3SGTE (1,2,3 gen engine)
3. 3SGTE ECU
4. E153 Transmission
5. Engine Harness
6. Battery Relocation Kit
7. Battery box or mount
8. 225LPH High capacity Fuel pump (walboro or SW20)
9. Axles (88 Camry V6 or S/C)
10. Crawford mounting Jig Rental
11. Crawford engine mounts
12. speed-source front/rear mounts with poly bushings
13. Engine mount bolts and hardware
14. Mechanical E153 Speedometer sensor
15. 2.5” or bigger Catalytic converter
16. 2.5” or bigger Exhaust piping and muffler
17. Gas Lines (SW20)
18. Fuel Filter (SW20)
19. Charcol Canister (AW11)
20. SS Braided clutch line (speed source MK1.5 special)
21. SW20 Coolant Filler Neck
22. SW20 or AW11 Coolant resivour
23. 6-8’ of ¾” Heater patch hose
24. 17” universal flex Coolant hose
25. 1-1/4” Coolant hose Coupler (repair kit)
26. Mechanical Boost Gauge
27. Battery
28. 5SFE Alternator and Bracket
29. Throttle cable from a 92 (N/A) ~ 110 to 120” long
30. Spark plugs
31. Spark plug wires
32. distributor Cap
33. Distributor Rotor
34. Banjo bolts for Gas lines
35. All nessecary fluids
36. AW11 N/A Shifter cables and assembly
37. Intercooler setup (A2A/A2W)
38. N1 plug from AW11
39. N2 Plug from AW11
40. AW11 Water Neck coolant return hose
41. 3S L-Pipe for Brake booster
42. 5/8” Hose for brake booster
43. If using GT4 Intercooler use ATS TB inlet
44. Custom Cut TB inlet for all others
MK1.5 Install procedure:
1. Remove Origional engine
a. Drain all fluids
b. Disconnect battery
c. Cut the N2 plug connection on the engine side of the harness leaving slack
d. Cut the N1 plug connection on the ECU side of the harness leaving slack
e. Disconnect throttle cable, shifter cables save all clips
f. Disconnect the coolant lines
g. Disconnect and remove fuel lines, filter and charcoal canister, set canister aside.
h. Raise Car to working level
i. Underneath car disassemble exhaust system and set aside
j. Remove CV bolts holding Inner CV’s to transmission, then remove the hub bolts holding the Axles in place.
k. Remove the axles
l. Supported with an engine hoist, unbolt the engine and disconnect the mounts.
m. Drop and remove engine from bay.
2.
Prepare the engine bay
a. Remove old coolant hoses and set aside
b. Remove heater lines in bay and set aside
c. Disconnect gas tank filler from neck
d. Disconnect gas return and fill lines
e. Remove old Ignigtor and other ignition components
f. Tie up old body harness
g. Tie up shifter cables
h. Grind away weather proofing for a clean surface to weld mounts (along frame)
i. Rent a Jig or mock up your engine and tack weld your mounts
j. Weld mounts permenant and paint
3.
Prepping the gas tank
a. Remove any under body paneling.
b. Remove the parking brake assembly under vehicle, disconnect parking brake cables
c. On 87-89 Models drain gas using a standard 3/8’s wrench to remove plug, drain gasoline into a plastic container that is safe for gas. *Be careful this process can be very dangerous and easily cause a fire, watch out for metal to metal contact and other spark risks*
d. After gasoline removed start to unfasten the bolts holding the straps together that hold the gas tank in place.
e. Drop the straps down, if gas tank does not fall easily, push it from side to side and wiggle it loose. It may take some prying towards the front for it to be released.
f. Once removed, inspect the gas tank be sure that everything is in good shape.
g. On the top of the gas tank about 1/4 from the back end is a fuel pump assembly and some lines. Remove the bolts/screws that hold the pump assembly in the tank, also remove the bolt that holds the lines to the tank at the end.
h. Remove the assembly and then begin to remove existing pump.
i. Install walboro pump according to their instructions, Wire the pump using supplied butt connecters and existing wires.
j. Install Pump assembly just as it came out.
k. Tank installation is reverse of removal
l. Once the tank is in place, hook up the gas lines and filler neck to the rest of the gas system in the engine bay.
4.
Install 3SGTE
a. Raise vehicle position engine a few inches behind center of engine bay
b. Before installing engine be sure to first install 5SFE alternator and bracket!
c. Drop car onto floor letting engine fit into the bay space
d. Use an Engine crane to hoist the engine into position, use line-up tools to line the engine mounts up (big screwdriver, punches, etc…)
e. Bolt up side mounts first
f. Raise car slightly and install front/rear engine mounts with bushings
g. Connect Coolant output to body coolant system using AW11 hose
h. Connect heater line to body using ¾” heater hose
i. Using a universal 17” or longer hose connect the Coolant line (pump side) to the body coolant lines.
j. Install Mechanical speedometer sensor into transmission and connect speedometer cable
k. Install the fuel filter in AW11 factory position, connect bottom to fuel tank line. Connect the top of the filter to the line going to engine
l. Install charcoal canister to fuel evap lines and run one vacuum line from engine vacuum system.
m. Hook up Vacuum system if nessecary.
n. Install brake booster line with proper hose.
o. Install SS clutch line from speed source from car line to engine hydrolic clutch system.
p. Install Water filler neck and overflow bottle
q. Install Intercooler
r. Connect shifter cables to transmission
s. Install 1988 Camry V6 or MR2 S/C axles now *BE SURE TO PRE GREASE!*
t. Install Throttle cable
u. Install any other required engine components (distributor, cables, etc)
5.
Wiring the ECU to body harness
a. First visit
http://forums.twobrutal.com/files/3...uide%20v1.0.pdf (registration required) *that is the paul woods wiring tutorial with pictures
b. Take your N1 and N2 connecters and plug them into their according sockets.
c. Mount your ECU somewhere in the trunk to make it easier to wire, plug your engine harness into the ECU now
d. Let the cut plug from the SW20 body ECU harness hang loose.
e. Using the above tutorial wire the engine up as described.
6.
Final steps
a. Fill engine with oil
b. Bleed coolant system
c. Fill transmission with fluid using fill hole located on the front side of the transmission
d. Bleed clutch line
e. Start engine, let warm up. Attempt to drive
f. Re install exhaust
g. Done!
Some videos of the MK1.5 in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqCorY4jRf0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H12wfwdn_rM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSRUj520t4c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Fwx5Zw-v2Q
Forum for every generation Toyota MR2. Including the AW11 and SW20.
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