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Old 06-16-2008, 08:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Gen1 Its an ignition problem

Now I have an ignition problem. now the car fires then dies and i have 2 codes. A no RPM signal, and Switch signal (codes 6 and 11). Im thinkin that the SW signal is from the AC when i removed th AC compressor during the engine rebuild. Now on to the real problem im losing spark after the first few seconds after it kicks. If i let the car sit for about 30 min or so it will start enough for me to get it started then keep my foot on the peddle to keep it running. But after it dies i test for spark and there is none.. Whats weird is that if I took the #1 plug out and arced it on the valve cover the engine tried to run. So is it a Ground issue? I just painted the head when i had it off. If the plugs aren't getting ground why would it run 30 min. later?
Thank for all the help.
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Old 06-16-2008, 08:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Code 6: No NE or G signal to ECU from distributor after engine cranking

-Distributor or circuit The distributor generates crank and camshaft signals for the ECU. The signals are not being generated or received by the ECU. Check the dist, wiring and connectors.

-Starter signal circuit The ECU is not receiving a signal from the starter relay.

-Igniter circuit Check the circuit between the igniter, distributor and ECU.

-ECU


Code 11: Power is being lost to the ECU


-Ign switch or circuit


-Main relay or circuit


-ECU
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Old 06-16-2008, 10:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I understand that, i have a hanes maunal, but we all know how good those are at diagnosing problem; none... my question is why is it when the plugs in th car it onlys starts once for a hour then the only way it tries is when a plug arces to the block?? Sorry if it seems like Im bashing u this cars is just getting on my last nerve and i dont have much money to spend on it.
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Old 06-17-2008, 08:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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well im not getting 140 ohms of resistance out of the red and white wires coming out of the distributor (is this the Ne or the G signal?), but my coil is shot. Will this cause both problems as well? thanks for any info.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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2 days and no info. PLEASE help me, im lost.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If your coil is shot that probably means you killed your Igniter. Id say do a diagnostic on the igniter with your manual. check and make sure thats not bad...if your ignitor is bad that may be the root of all your problems.

Oh and about the Arching of your plugs....make sure that you reconencted the little ground wire that goes from the head to the chassis...if you didnt I suggest you fine a bolt on the head and then run a 10 gauge wire from it to the chassis.
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Old 06-22-2008, 01:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ModifierMR View Post
Oh and about the Arching of your plugs....make sure that you reconencted the little ground wire that goes from the head to the chassis...if you didnt I suggest you fine a bolt on the head and then run a 10 gauge wire from it to the chassis.
yeah i have that wire conncted in a hiddiuos place (right on the top valve cover nut).
i ground the coil and ignitor better, and it ran and actually idled. But then i started it next day and i have nothing. No kick or anything. I smelled fuel after cranking so I think it flooded. I think painting the head was a bad idea.
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Old 06-22-2008, 09:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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UHH now Im back to a warm start problem. when the car is at operating temp it wont start. the car still wont idle cold or warm. Im still getting a code 6(but no more 11).
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