Ok guys it me again... I got the car to run decent, but now the car dosent stay cool at all. It first happened on the freeway and was on the red line and it was a bear getting it home. But I got it home after 3 hours of moving about 600 feet. Well during that time of waiting for the car to cool i realized that the car was boiling the coolant out of the over flow resivoir. So i got home and put in some new antifreeze mixed to 50/50, and still boiled right on out. So i put in a new thermostate and water pump, and looked at the radiator and its not great but it should help more than whats happening(I checked its not cloged). Threw it all back together and still the same problem. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Im preety sure because the car is fine at idle but once i drive it goes up. Even when i drive it tends to hesitate over heating so id say its bled(and the idle doesnt bounce). Before when ive done a flush i didnt have a problem with air pockets. If its done right u shouldnt need a burper. Fill as much as you can in the system with that car off then start the car with the heater on hi heat and hi for the blower speed. Add as needed. Thats what ive found worked before many times.
Well, until you actually bleed the heater core, and block, you will not be able to illimniate the possibilty. It is recommended produre. But to each his own.
Well now i have to bleed the system. No matter how I do it, I have a bouncing idle (YAY). I think I had a cloged heater care pipe. So its back to the shop I go.
Yeah brand new radiator and i took the condensor out. my problem is a loss of coolent due to boiling. The questiopn is why is my car getting so hot its boiling my coolent out off the over flow resivoir. All of my fans are hard wired so their constantly on. Any other ideas??
Well, with what all you've changed, the only things I can think of to cause the overheating is air in the systen, or the thermostat. I know you said you changed the thermostat. Maybe it's not the right one>??? And as far as air, does your new radiator have a bleed valve ON TOP of the radiator? And "burping" is not enough for these cars. They DO need to be bled.-At the heater core, radiator and block.
Does your tranny have a cooler?
Well the heater core is by passed the lines broke off at the heater core so i put a hose from the block to the thremostate housing. I have bled the radiator, but not the block. The block wont take in any more water. Im going to put in another thremostate and see if that helps.
well the thermostate didnt help at all. Still overheats after about 5 miles if that. i bled the system radiator then engine bay (i have nothing going to the heater core). The problem is that my car boils the coolent then their is air in the system. Any other ideas??
when i rebuilt my motor wha i did to bleed the system was use a snap on bleeder ($60.00) and an air compressor. it puts the entire system under a vacuum until all fluids are pushed out. then you use the vacuum to suck the coolant back in w/o letting in any air.
we use the same tool and procedure at work and it works flawlessly everytime.
If you've replaced all those coolong system components, you're system should be functioning properly.I know you said you bled the system, but that is really the only thing I see at this point that could be causing your problem.
Evacuating the ALL air from this system is paramount to the MR2 cooling system with it's mid engine design and all the piping from front to back. It takes me a longtime to bleed mine. I put in my coolant, then keep adding distilled water,add, bleed add, bleed each area over and over thill I think I've got out all the air bubbles. I've even had to shut down the engine to cool it down before I can finish the bleed.
Unless you have a snap on bleeder like KnightFall mentioned, thats how it needs to be done. And thats why Toyota charges $75.00 to change the coolant in an MR2!
Other than you having some other engine mechanical problem thats causing excessive heat, I don't have any other ideas. Maybe someone else does.
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