no start after new parts

[brandon_mr2]

89, natural, manual trans, 133000 miles. I just replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator. Now it won't start! wtf? It was not hard to swap parts, i double checked every connection, hose and bolt. I am lost. It cranks just fine, but won't start. And yes I put the fuel pump fuse back in. any ideas?

[brandon_mr2]

if you turn the key to the "on" position and keep it there for about 15 seconds, it will start, but only run for about 5 seconds. if you try and do that same process imediately after it started,it just dies. but if you wait 15 minutes or so, it will start for that 5 seconds.

[new echo owner]

Why did you replace the fuel pressure regulator? Is it a factory part? Did you use the correct washers or seals when you install it?

Crack loose a fuel line, do you have much fuel spray? BE CAREFUL, SINCE YOU ARE WORKING WITH FUEL!

N.E.O.

[brandon_mr2]

i replaced the fuel pressure regulator due to an earlier issue. my toyota tech told me the regulator would fix my problem. now i just have more problems. before i replaced the regulator i had to crank it a few times to get it to start, now it starts every time but won't stay running. i checked all my connections and hoses. everything is good.

[new echo owner]

What was your original problem? Connect a fuel pressure guauge if you have one to see if you have any or good fuel pressure. It is possible that your fuel pump isn't running except when cranking, which would give it enough fuel to last about 5 second or so. If that is the case, you will need to fine out why? Did you disconnect anything when you replaced regulator?

N.E.O.

[brandon_mr2]

apparently the new regulator was bad. i put the old one back on and she fired right back up and stayed running.
I replaced the regulator due to a suggestion from a Toyota tech. my mr2 was'nt starting when it was hot outside. I have to turn the key to the "on" position for about 10 seconds and then crank it twice before it will start. I have posted a thread on that problem months ago but nobody seems to have a clue about that problem. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor, ignition coil, plugs, wires, air idle control valve, battery, and numerous other bits and pieces. oh well, i guess i will deal with it until someone has another idea. i love this car, i am not giving up.

[new echo owner]

When you said 'hot outside', how hot? Just a guess, but maybe your car has a vapor lock problem when it is hot outside, not very common on fuel injected car but on occassion one pops up. Try a little experiment here, if possible, the next time when it is hot out, pop the engine compartment open and see if it help your starting problem. A fuel pressure gauge would also help in eliminating possible cause too. If your fuel pressure take a while to build up when hot, that maybe your cause, but if the pressure is good and you still have problem starting, you may have something other then your fuel system causing you problem. Ignition system maybe, check your coil resistances, secondary and primary, both hot and cold to see if they are within spec.

By the way, you said the regulator is bad, is it a Toyota part? Not very often do you see one of those go bad when it is new. Did you put the correct washers on? The wrong washer will block off the fuel flow.

Good Luck,

N.E.O.

[tHa kNiGHt FaLL]

wha about the FP relay...? if the coil is weak or the contacts are sticking it could cause a delayed start.
and its probably the cheapest thing to replace.

[toyotaspeed90]

the issue is a heat-soaked starter (when hot out)..... starter is probably going bad...

as for the FPR... i'm going to guess that when you changed it you forgot to bolt down the main ground on the manifold, and when you put the old one back in you managed to remember it that time....

the FPR's pretty much don't go bad....

[brandon_mr2]

actually i never removed any ground of any kind. there were 2 bolts, a compression fitting, and a vacuum hose. no ground

[toyotaspeed90]

not sure you removed the FPR, then? there's no compression fitting on the FPR..... it has an inlet that has a rubber seal that slides into the rail and a barbed end for a hose on the side, and 2 bolts.....

sometimes they're difficult and/or the wiring gets routed over it somehow and moving the wiring can screw things ups..... if someone removed the ground on the manifold before and didn't bolt it down tightly (or something to that effect) you may have bumped it..... check that wiring there....

[brandon_mr2]

actually there is a compression fitting on the bottom of the fpr, 2 bolts, an inlet with an o-ring, and what looks like a vacuum hose. and yes it is the fpr

[brandon_mr2]

it is now running smoothly after the auto parts store sent me another fpr, apparently the first one was bad. thank you for all your help, don't know what i would do without u guys.

[myrezi]

sweet..i will remember that for the future.
Pics and a small write up would be cool too.

[toyotaspeed90]

I hope for you that it actually fixed the problem...... but toyota fpr's are built pretty darn strong and I would be very surprised if one broke under normal conditions....

the FPR is essentially a sealed unit... the center section has a diaphragm that moves up and down, which regulates the amount of fuel that can flow through the fpr (based on pressure differences between the fuel side and the vacuum side). The vacuum line is attached to allow for the diaphram to move and increase pressure as vacuum increases (ie, it's a rising rate fpr). The vacuum side of the diaphram is topped by metal, and would assume the fuel side is as well (I know this, since I used a stock fpr as an adapter for an aftermarket adjustable unit.... drill out the back just far enough to unseal the vacuum side and there will be nothing to hold the diaphragm in place.

In any case.... again, I see no reason why under normal conditions why this would go out. I've worked on tons of problematic 4age's and have never ever been suspicious of a FPR.