You can use a coating of moly grease on the contact portions to prevent initial bearing wear during the first startup when oil hasn't circulated everywhere (oil doesn't evenly coat the bearings because it's so thin, and it will soon drip down and out of the oil hole). I used moly on all of the contact portions of my bearings, including the cam, rod, and main bearings. The oil will liquify the grease and it'll just end up in the oil pan and filter. It is important to change the oil and filter after the first initial start and warm up. Use static engine revs to create enough oil pressure to clear it out.
Oil companies have been trying for years to get moly and oil to homogenize. It is now one of the many friction modifiers in modern oil. Toyota also uses a moly resin coating on the piston skirts of newer engines to reduce friction.
I have never seen using grease on these components recommended anywhere. The theory sounds good, but I would be afraid that the grease would not dissolve fast enough and would clog oil ports.
The BGB says use oil. But I take you at your word(s) . The only thing is that I would not want to have to change and dump a new batch of oil after only using it to start up and time engine.
I have never seen using grease on these components recommended anywhere. The theory sounds good, but I would be afraid that the grease would not dissolve fast enough and would clog oil ports.
The BGB says use oil. But I take you at your word(s) . The only thing is that I would not want to have to change and dump a new batch of oil after only using it to start up and time engine.
no offense, but what oil ports are you thinking would get clogged? if hot grease/lube were enough to clog oil passages, then there are far greater problems with the engine in question.
personally, my break-in procedure on a freshly-built engine consists of:
K&N or Mobil1 oil filter (filters to micron level)
Valvoline Oil (purest fossil engine oil)
neodymium magnets on oil drainplug, oil pan, and on filter
i don't necessarily agree with dumping oil after initial start-up. after maybe 100 miles or so, yes. i scrub and blow air through my engine blocks incredibly thoroughly before assembly, so there are minimum shavings to be found/filtered.
Last edited by ToyotaTechGeek; 12-20-2008 at 09:46 AM.
no offense, but what oil ports are you thinking would get clogged? if hot grease/lube were enough to clog oil passages, then there are far greater problems with the engine in question.
personally, my break-in procedure on a freshly-built engine consists of:
K&N or Mobil1 oil filter (filters to micron level)
Valvoline Oil (purest fossil engine oil)
neodymium magnets on oil drainplug, oil pan, and on filter
i don't necessarily agree with dumping oil after initial start-up. after maybe 100 miles or so, yes. i scrub and blow air through my engine blocks incredibly thoroughly before assembly, so there are minimum shavings to be found/filtered.
Not Offended. Engines are a constant learning experience-to me any way.And I am here to learn as much as I can.(plus it's free!)
I was thinking of the tiny oil ports that lubricate main, rod and cam journals. When assembled, they are practically flush against the journals. And in my mind, I was thinking that grease may get in that tiny hole and not find a way out.
My block is suppose to be ready next week. I think I will follow the break in procedure you suggested.
I have seen the magnetized drain plugs, but not oil pan and filter magnets. Who makes those and where can I find them?
Oh, while I'm thinking about it, I have read that it's not neccessary when breaking in a rebuilt engine to keep the speed under 70mph for the 1st 1000 miles like the old school used to suggest. That high RPM's and speed are OK and the rings will seat fine.
What is your take on that?
I do appreciate you (and some others here) for the good advice and on going education...
You should not be using just any grease. You need to use proper assembly lube.
Don't use just oil use proper assembly lube.
Jeff
yup. i use a little blend i've managed to concoct over the years of engine building. i use RedLine Assembly Lube with a little bit of Militec 1 mixed-in. on bearing parts.
i use EP Moly lube (Torco) with a touch of Militec 1 for the threaded surface areas with exception to ARP hardware, then i use ARP lube.
i like to vary the RPMs on break-in. little to no highway driving where there is little by way of variable RPM/speed change. city driving is by-far the way to go. i drop oil and filter at about 100 miles. then again after 500 miles. then 1000, then onto either 3000 or 5100 (which is the current API standard for the 'new' multi-blends). i would only use Valvoline until the 1000 mile mark afterwhich i would switch to regular Mobile Drive Clean, then to Castrol GTX or Redline Synthetic at the 3000 mile mark. i like the Valvoline for it's 'purity'. i like Drive Clean for the detergents. i use K&N or Mobile 1 filters until 3000 miles for the simple fact that they filter down to the micron. is this good for 'regular' use? nah! not necessary. for freshly machined parts in a rebuilt engine? YES. plus they are circa $10USD each. after the 3000 miles, i use Toyota filter religiously.
oh! and since you will probably have a new clutch, you should 'ride' it a bit for the first time driving it. it'll help to seat the clutch to the fresh flywheel surface.
as for grease in the rod journals and such, you have nothing to worry about. bearing grease? i would never use that in an engine anyway, so there's nothing to worry about there. plus, if there were a glob of grease (which with the proper lubricants this wouldn't happen) then the filter screen would 'hold' it there.
Northern Tool sells these little 'super magnets'. if you can't find them, PM me and we can arrange for me to send you a set.
Last edited by ToyotaTechGeek; 12-20-2008 at 04:55 PM.
Well, I only have the disc, which probably isnt as detailed. And all I've seen(so far) specified is clean engine oil when re assembling.
But thanks for all the info. I'll have to print it out. I'll look in my Northern tool catalogue for those magnets.
I was thinking of the tiny oil ports that lubricate main, rod and cam journals. When assembled, they are practically flush against the journals. And in my mind, I was thinking that grease may get in that tiny hole and not find a way out.
The oil coming through the oil holes is pressurized, so any grease in the holes immediately gets flushed out and circulates with the pressurized oil. A lot of the grease will get trapped in the oil filter too.
Usually the upper end (cam bearings/journals) is most at risk during a rebuild since it's the last to get oil during startup (more so on a V engine like my 1MZ).
Most Toyota repair manuals do just say to use engine oil when installing the cams, which is "okay," but the reality is there will be a short period of time before there is oil pressure and the oil in there is not very "sticky," assembly lube on the other hand is meant to lubricate things properly while there is no oil on initial startup. The pressurized engine oil will clear/dissolve the assembly lube and things will be well.
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