Yeah it does.
I rethreaded it awhile back. All I had was a SAE tap and die set. So I went 7/16, which was fine, but I also used 20 thread count. MISTAKE! too fine. I mean, it's held up so far, but when I tighten it, it feels like it's gonna strip out, so I'm not comfortable with it. I should have went with a 14 count thread.
Anyway, I think I'm gonna use the heliCoil and go with a 7/16 stud and 14 count thread. I was just wondering if anyone here has gone this route. It should be fine. I am more concerned about the heat to the HeliCoil.
When tightening, it just kept turning well before I got to target torque. There was a couple of studs that had several washers piled on it because the bolt was to long. I guess who ever worked on it and did that dumb shit stripped it. I bought all new studs, but ran into this problem. Lucky me
Yeah it does.
I rethreaded it awhile back. All I had was a SAE tap and die set. So I went 7/16, which was fine, but I also used 20 thread count. MISTAKE! too fine. I mean, it's held up so far, but when I tighten it, it feels like it's gonna strip out, so I'm not comfortable with it. I should have went with a 14 count thread.
Anyway, I think I'm gonna use the heliCoil and go with a 7/16 stud and 14 count thread. I was just wondering if anyone here has gone this route. It should be fine. I am more concerned about the heat to the HeliCoil.
Actually, a fine thread will take more torque than a coarse thread will. I would get a fine thread stud & put it in with locktite red, & let it set a couple days to set up before threading a nut on it. Make sure everything is clean & dry first. spray brake clean in the hole & blow it out with air to make sure its clean & dry. Use a generous amount of locktite, & it will soak into the helicoil & lock it in place too.
If you use stainless steel hardware, it will take more torque than carbon steel, & not rust, so when you remove the nut, you wont pull out the stud.
It shouldn't, because it will be in the head & the head is aluminum which disperses heat quickly. The head will not get as hot as the manifold when the engine is running. If you wanted to thread a stud into the manifold with threadlocker, then I would be concerned, but into the head should be fine. You also have to remember that the head has coolant going through it which absorbs heat & keeps the head from overheating. If you are concerned about heat, get a gasket that wont transfer heat from the exhaust manifold to the head, or stack a couple of gaskets to separate the two, & you should be fine. Locktite is made for high heat applications anyhow, so I would just do it. If you have ever taken off a bolt installed with locktite red you know that unless you heat it up cherry red with a torch, it will pull the threads out with it, & there is no way those bolts will get that hot in the head.
The worst that could happen is the bolt could work loose. Go ahead & try it & check the bolt on occasion to make sure it is still tight. After a couple thousand miles if it is still holding, it will probably be fine. Its alot easier than drilling & tapping it bigger, & if it doesnt work, you can go that route.
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